Inexpensive guest houses, motels, budget resorts and campgrounds catering
to both the `backpacker' crowd and sometimes local traffic are found throughout
Fiji. These are often family-run affairs, and quality varies greatly. Some
offer reasonable, if spartan, accommodations at a good price. Some, but thankfully fewer, low-end
accommodations may be inexpensive but shabby, overcrowded, or frequented
by 
locals seeking a hideaway for liaisons. Even at the better facilities,
quality can change dramatically from month to month, depending on the manager,
the relationship between the owners, the sobriety of the owners, and other
factors. Others include basic cooking facilities. Prices at these facilities start at about F$25 for a dorm bed and range up to F$150 for individual rooms. Some offer three-meals-a-day food plans with accommodation for around $F50
per day.
Yes, backpacking in Fiji has gotten much more expensive and upscale. Fiji is still reasonable but cannot be confused with the extremely low prices you'll find in India or Indonesia. As the Fijian tourist plant has matured, quality has gotten decidedly better as competition has increased. Below is a partial list of some of the better budget accommodations. I'll add more islands soon!
Nadi Area
Heaven’s Edge is a Spartan backpacker facility in the highlands perched on the edge of a mountain with both dorm and bures. The nearly 360 degree views are spectacular. It's an hour and a half drive from the main road. The turnoff to get there is about three or four clicks from the Nadi airport heading north.) It's operated by the landowners belonging to the Qoqa Mataqali (clan) and the big plus is that you'll have a great opportunity to interact with Fijians. Local hiking and exploration are the main activities. Rates start at F$50 per person which includes 3 meals a day.
An eleven-minute drive from Nadi but still remote, Stoney Creek Resort lies on a hilltop at the foot of the Sabeto Mountains. The environs are beautiful and the facilities are laid out in an attractive manner. It has both camping/ dorm ($20) and bure facilities that start at $30 for the love shack and go up to $120 for deluxe rooms. It's typical of the new luxury backpacker facilities--there's something for every one. Activities include mountain Biking, trekking, kayaking, horseback riding and other outdoor fun. (www.stoneycreekfiji.net)
Nomads Skylodge only a few minutes taxi ride from the airport was formerly a rather tired, mid-ranged facility that has been revamped and is now a popular budget accommodation. It's on an 11 acre tract of land and has a variety of housing ranging from bare bones dorm ($22) to rooms deluxe rooms ($58) with phone, TV, tea/coffee, fridge, etc. (www.nomadsskylodge.com.fj.)
Nadi Bay Hotel has been one of my favorite Nadi budget accommodations for years. Located a 10-minute drive from the airport, they have a wide selection of accommodation ranging from dorms (starting at $F21) and rooms (ranging from $56 to $82) to air-conditioned apartments starting at 95. It's a far cry from the threadbare operation it was a decade or two ago. (www.fijinadibayhotel.com).
Of late, Nadi has sprouted a whole category of budget properties located on Wailoaloa Beach that is located between the airport and Nadi town. They are a bit off the main road but offer better food, service and accommodation than the skimpy 
dorms in town. Another great plus is that they are on the beach. Unless you need to be in town, it's much better to be near the ocean even though Wailoaloa is not Fiji greatest beach. In this category I would consider Aquarius Fiji (www.aquarius.com.fj); Club Fiji Resort, displayed in the photo on right (www.clubfiji-resort.com); Beachside Resort (www.beachsideresortfiji.com) all worthy of consideration.
Coral Coast
A good inexpensive backpacker refuge along the Coral Coast is the Beachhouse. Located about 35 km east of Sigatoka and and 43 km west of Pacific Harbour, it's a comfortable tradtional clapboard house with a good beach and very pleasant, shaded grounds. The Beachhouse is the creation of 
Andrew Brown, a "local European" as Fijians refer to locally born Causcasians and his wife Jessica, who took his family's old vacation home and created a Fiji budget institution. The house is a bar, sitting area, and dining room (The Coconut Cafe) which is known for its delicious vegetarian dishes. He has also constructed a two-story dorm that has all the comforts a budget traveller could want including ceiling fans and reading lights. There are also12 garden rooms in another building; with double beds. What's more, campers can pitch their own tents on a spacious lawn. Activities include village visits, hiking, kayaking, biking, snorkelling and boat trips. Prices begin at F$25 for dorms and range to Fiji$ 77.00 per couple for New Garden Rooms (double). (www.fijibeachouse.com).
Mango Bay Resort , which opened in late 2005, is Fiji's newest budget resort. It opened up on the Coral Coastat Namatakula, which is located between Korolevu and Pacific Harbour. Like many of the newer budget properties it caters both to economy-loving backpackers (who don't mind sleeping in dorms) and a more upmarket cohort who are willing to pay a premium for private bures (or in the case of Mango Bay) "safari tents". The dorms at Mango Bay consist of large bures (instead of the usual barrack type facilities) that sleep up to seven for F$30 per person. There are also Beach 
Front Bures that sleep two (F$176 per bure per night--valid until the 31st March 06 ) and the aforementioned Safari Tents that sleep 3 (F$120 per safari tent per night--valid until the 31st March 06 ). Breakfast is included in prices. This resort is aimed and the young and unattached who demand a plethora of outdoor and evening activities. To date, reports on Mango Bay have been positive. Amenities include lagoon pool with swim up bar, "Moody Marlin" Restaurant, Nightclub, lounge bar, outdoor cinema and Internet facilities. Actitivies include day trips to outer islands; gamefishing; snorkelling; kayaking; mountain biking; Fijian village and school tours; trekking and diving. The dvive operation is run by Diveaway Fiji which runs the nearby concession at Hideaway. (www.mangobayresortfiji.com)
Suva
The South Seas Private Hotel is a perennial favorite. It's easy walking distance from downtown. Management is friendly and helpful. There are 42 single, twin/double, family and dormitory (4-5 beds) rooms, many with polished wooden floors. All have fans, insect screens, bed linen and maid service. There is one room with its own private bathroom but all other rooms share communal bathrooms. For backpackers it's one of the better deals in Suva. Prices start at F$16.00pp for a dorm bed, F$28.00 for a single room and F$50 for room with bath.
Backpackers should consider Colonial Lodge at 19 Anand Street which is a newly renovated 70 year old bungalow located in a very quiet cul-de-sac street in the heart of Suva City. The bus station is just a three minute walk from the Lodge. It's run by Suzie Yee Show whose dad, Emosi, ran Leleuvia Island Resort and Mary's Holiday Lodge in Levuka for many. Suzie grew up with the business and she knows a thing or two about hospitality.
Raintree Lodge, located 11 km from downtown Suva at the entrance of Colo-i-Suva Forest Park, has something for everyone starting with dorms for backpackers at around $F20 and individual rooms for $50 (with shared bath). They also have comparatively luxurious bungalows with TV, fridge 
and bath that go for $110. There’s also a restaurant on the premises. The entire complex overlooks a lake that was once a rock quarry. In addition to the cool environs, the Lodge is one of the most eco-friendly resorts in the islands. For example buildings are constructed from local Fiji pine (a relatively renewable resource) and water on the property is treated on-site and reused. The only caveat is it’s distance from town. (www.raintreelodge.com)
Levuka
The Royal Hotel (see above photo) is a classic accommodation--it's the oldest operating hotel in the South Pacific. It has dorm facilities as well as regular 
rooms. A landmark in its own right and the most up-market of Levuka's accommodation. Constructed in the 1850s, it has been managed by the Ashleys, a local part-European family, for two generations. Never mind that the hot water isn't so hot or an American Express card is an unknown entity there. The 'Royal' is the place to stay in Levuka. It's loaded with atmosphere, found in such particulars as an old-style balcony facing the cliffs, polished brass shell casings for ashtrays, a long staircase, a haunted room and a century-old billiard table in excellent shape. The hotel has 14 rooms in the main structure, each with two single beds, a shower stall, and toilet. There are also four modern cottages built in 1998 which have modern amenities and if you want a bit of comfort they are the best place to stay in town. Three meals per day are served in the dining room for guests only ifyou book in advance. Prices are F$33 ($15) double; F$55-F$77 ($25-$34.50) cottage. royal@is.com.fj
I've heard great things about Bobo's Farm which is located on the north west side of Ovalau in the Rukuruku Valley. Run by a local family, Karin and Bobo like to say their farm is "environmentally and ecologically as friendly as 
possible". A backpacker retreat, it's a great way to understand rural Fijian life first hand. It's located in a lush valley where everything grows and is only a ten minute walk to the seashore. They have one guesthouse which has 2 bedrooms with shower/bathroom, living room and kitchen. Activities include swimming, snorkeling, fishing, rainforest treks or village visits. Rates are single room F$ 35 per person double room F$ 25 per person. (www.owlfiji.com/bobosfarm.htm)
Taveuni
The best backpacker haunt is Bibi’s Hideaway which has been a Taveuni institution for years. It’s gone upmarket a bit with new bures that are several cuts above the funky. Located on expansive grounds (near a beach) it is loaded with fruit trees of every
description that are offered to guests free of charge. The owner, James (aka Jim) has been running the operation for years and is a kind and thoughtful man. Daily rates begin at F$25 for dorm facilities to F$110 for a bare bones family home with two bedrooms and kitchen. The newest bure at F$70 is clean and modern (see photo) but has no electricity. For upmarket backpackers it’s still a great bargain. It's located a ten minute walk from the airstrip in Matei. His phone is 888 0443.
Another highly recommended upmarket backpacker haven is Tovutovu, located near Naselesele Village, a few hundred meters past Bhulabhai Store. The owner, Alan Patterson, has five bures (two which are self-contained) ranging in price from $75 - $125 and boasts 24 hour power—which is almost underhead of in Taveuni airport area. On the premises is a dive shop run by Tyron Valentine, a local dive master with an excellent pedigree. Check out www.tovutovu.com
You also might consider the “Tree House” at the Little Dolphin, near the Bhula Bhai Store. Run by Scott, an American, it’s a spacious, clean two story affair with a double bed and extra mattress on the top floor. Cooking facilities, bathroom and laundry amenities are below. It’s got a great view from the top floor. At F$90 it’s a good deal. (888-0130)
Far away, on the remote side of the island is Taveuni Guesthouse near Vuna. The house overlooks the ocean on a cliff of lava rocks with access to snorkeling and a black sandy beach. It's a good place to explore the southern side of the island which most visitors never get to see. Price for shared room is $25 or $35 for private room. The same people (Viola and Roland ) who own the guest house also run Dolphin Bay Retreat (see photo below) a 
backpacker scuba diving operation located on Viani Bay, a remote 30 minute boatride from Taveuni. They have four private bures and three safari tents. All accommodation is ocean front, only a few meters from the beach. Snorkeling and diving is great--you're only a few minutes from the Rainbow Reef, one of the premier dive sites in Fiji. Tents start at $25 per person per night up to $55 per person per night for bures. Meal plans ($55 per night) are separate. (www.dolphinbaydivers.com)
Yasawa Islands
Located on the island of Nacula, Nalova Bay is owned and operated by a local Fijian couple. They reportedly serve excellent food. The beach in front of both Oarsmans and Nalova is fantastic for kids, as it is more like a pool. A large cottage provides sleeping accommodation in single or double beds for a maximum of six. A twin beachside bure accommodates two and includes double bed, private hot and cold bathroom facilities. Price is F$110 per night Single or Double. Meals are $33 per day per guest. Snorkelling on both sides of the bay features larege array of sea life, including turtles (on occasion), small rays, octopus etc. Both Nalova and Oarsmans feature excursions to the local village, Sunday church service at the village, visits to the famous Blue Lagoon, visits to Sawa-i-lau caves and open ocean snorkelling. (www.fijifvb.gov.fj/accom/listing/nalova.htm)
Next door to Nalova Bay is Oarsman’s Bay Lodge is on a 1200 meter long white sandy beach--the best beach in the area-- and has six individual and two family bures. There is also a 13- bed dormitory with shared facilities built above a dining and bar area. Oarsman is preferable for couples--it's not exclusively for backpackers. Prices start at $42.00 for dorms ($25 for tents) and tops out at $210 for a family bure. Meal plans are just under $50/day. Oarsman's gets consistently good reviews from readers. (www.oarsmansbay.com)
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Another place to consider is Safe Landing which is owned and operated by Tevita and Rocky Volavola, local Fijians who exude charm and graciousness. It's a good place to meet local people, who hail from the nearby village of Naisisili, There are five traditional Fijian bures and 4, 6 bed dorms, all with shared facilities. Prices begin at $20.00 per person for campers up to $120.00 for the "grand" bure. Meal plans are F$40.50/person/day.
(www.fijibudget.com/safe-landing.htm)
Naviti Island is home to four backpacker retreats, three of which come highly recommended: Mantaray (most expensive—better class of accommodamtion), Korovou Resort, and Barefoot Lodge.
Mantaray Island Resort (with prices ranging from $25 to $150 per night) is the most upscale on Naviti and has four varieties of accommodation—tents, dorm, tree house bures and jungle bures. All have the usual ocean excursions and activities such as kayaking, snorkel, fishing diving, etc. There are plenty of social activities to while away the moonlit nights--The Sunset ‘Happy Hour', Full Moon Parties, kava drinking and theme nights among others. (www.mantarayisland.com)
I’ve also had good reports about Barefoot Island (which is where Captain Cook cruises drops its clients off). It has a great beach and excellent snorkeling with coral gardens right offshore. Accommodations consist of twenty twin share traditional bures. Each has two single beds. (Linen is supplied but BYO towel). The showers and toilets are communal.
Korovou Resort (the only one with a swimming pool) is also worth checking out. They offer 2 large beach side bures, 6 private beachfront cottages with fan, island dormitory of 24 beds, one family bure and a twin or double island lodge. A camp site is also available to those who bring their own tent. Rates start at $40 for campers up to $155 for the beach front bures. Snorkelling is excellent--be sure and check out Manta Rays Passage’ to see the rays close up and personal. (www.travelmaxia.com/extended.cfm?Memberid=436)
For planning trips to the Yasawa Group (as well as travel around Viti Levu) consider using Margaret Travel Service in Nadi. She knows the properties well and is honest.