Jona's, KadavuIf you are not a penny-pinching backpacker, the moderately priced hotels and resorts clearly represent the best bargain in Fiji. These are for the visitors who want a modicum of luxury and do not want to spend a small fortune. As a testimony to their value, you will often run into `local tourists' at these resorts who may be on a weekend getaway from Suva. Though by no means luxurious, they do not lack in comfort and often include self-contained cooking facilities, air conditioning, phones, pool, restaurant/bar, and sometimes beach access. Prices range from F$120 to F$250 for a room. Figure on spending another F$50 per day for three meals. Below I've listed a few of the low-to mid-range accommodations that I believe are of good value. Note that some of the places I've listed below overlap with backpacker haunts that I've listed previously in the "Backpacker pages".  The reason is that these places do have units in the F$100 or above range worthy of consideration.

Nadi

An eleven-minute drive from Nadi but still remote, Stoney Creek Resort lies on a hilltop at the foot of the Sabeto Mountains. The environs are beautiful and the facilities are laid out in an attractive manner. It has both camping/ dorm ($20) and bure facilities that start at $30 for the love shack and go up to $120 for deluxe rooms. It's typical of the new luxury backpacker facilities--there's something for every one. Activities include mountain Biking, trekking, kayaking, horseback riding and other outdoor fun. (www.stoneycreekfiji.net)

Anchorage Beach Resort is on Vuda Point (between Nadi and Lautoka) the traditional landing site for the ancestors of the Fijian people. Perhaps the best thing about the resort is its vistas, which are among the most spectacular on Viti

Levu. From the hotel grounds, which are located on a bluff, you can see Nadi to the south, the Sabeto Mountains to the east, and the sea and Mamanuca Islands to the west and north. The property is on 2.9 hectares of manicured gardens and has 16 well-appointed rooms (including four suites) with private balconies. There are also conference facilities. The restaurant/bar is open to the sea breezes, and as the name of the hotel indicates, there is also a beach nearby. I like this property and if you are planning to stay in the Lautoka or Nadi area, it's tough to find better. Prices for the least expensive room begin at F$135. (www.anchoragefiji.com)

Coral Coast

Mango Bay, Fiji's newest budget resort opened in late 2005 at Namatakula, which is located between Korolevu and Pacific Harbour. Although they cater to upmarket backpackers in large bures that sleep up to seven, there are also Beach Front Bures that sleep two (F$176 per bure per night--valid until the 31st March 06 ) and Safari Tents that sleep 3 (F$120 per safari tent per night--valid until the 31st March 06 ). Breakfast is included in prices. This resort is aimed and the young and unattached who demand a plethora of outdoor and evening activities.  Amenities include lagoon pool with swim up bar, "Moody Marlin" Restaurant, Nightclub, lounge bar, outdoor cinema and Internet facilities. Actitivies include day trips to outer islands; gamefishing; snorkelling; kayaking; mountain biking; Fijian village and school tours; trekking and diving. The dvive operation is run by Diveaway Fiji which runs the nearby concession at Hideaway. To date, reports on Mango Bay have been positive. I think it's worth considering if the youthful scene is what you're interested in. (www.mangobayresortfiji.com)

Bedarra Inn, is a modern boutique resort that looks to be a cross between a mansion and a tastefully done bordello. It has a cavernous common area which includes a bar and lobby. There is also an outside patio with a large dining area and a nice pool. Bedarra (pronounced ben- dahrah) is located about 100 meters east of the Vakaviti Motel no more than ten minutes drive from Sigatoka. There are 20 rooms--16 Deluxe Rooms - Each with a King size bed, en-suite bathroom and three with private cooking facilities; two Family Rooms - Both which have a King size bed plus two single beds and en-suite bathroom; one "Honeymooner" with King size bed, en-suite bathroom, large balcony and private cooking facilities; a traditional Bure (bungalow) with King size bed and two single beds plus en-suite bathroom and two Family Rooms - both of which have a King size bed plus two single beds and en-suite bathroom. The rooms are cozy, very comfortable and well appointed with clean bright bathrooms. The property has a pool as well. The food is varied and quite good and there's a happy hour every night. Happy hour is a great time to meet the locals who dribble in from down the street but they do smoke a lot in the bar area.That's probably the only thing I didn't like about the place. The owners do their best to make you feel at home and given the minuscule size, it's more like staying in someone's home than at a hotel. There are some good beaches in the area (but you'll need a car to get to them) and other attractions such as the Tavuni Hill Fort, the Sigatoka Sand Dunes and Sigatoka town nearby. Prices are $F165.00 per night (per couple). (www.bedarrafiji.com)

 

Suva

I've heard very good things about Nannete’s Homestay, 56 extension St., a sidestreet tucked away in the rear of the infamous CWM Hospital. It's a two-story white house and is one of the few B&Bs in town. On the top floor is a lounge area, a kitchen, and four rooms, each with their own bath room. One even has a balcony.  The bottom floor has three apartments, two of which have two bedrooms. All three are self contained with well appointed kitchens. Rates begin at F$89 for a room and F$125 for an apartment which includes breakfast.. (www.nanettes.com.fj).

Levuka

I've heard equally good things from Fijiguide readers about Levuka Homestay, a B&B run by Australians John and Marilyn Milesi. These are clearly the most comfortable digs in town. Although it's a new building it's constructed in the colonial style, in keeping with the historical architecture of the old capital. It is constructed of wood along the side of a hill, affording excellent views through a lush garden. The interior is decorated with Fijian artifacts and memorabilia. There are four spacious rooms - three are air-conditioned with queen size beds, and one room has a double bed and single bed. The rooms sport louvred windows, polished wooden floors, fluffy towels, ceiling fan, air-con, fresh flowers, refrigerator, and hot showers, The food is excellent. Breakfast (which is included) is freshly made fruit juice, local fruit, muesli, a cooked breakfast, tea or coffee.Prices are F$120.00 for a single room, F$135.00 for a double room and F$40.00 for an extra person in a room. (www.levukahomestay.com).


Kadavu

I've heard nothing but good things about Matava, a resort popular with divers, located just off the Astrolabe Reef. With capacity to handle only 22 guests Matava offers an intimate setting. It's a PADI certified resort but in addition to diving, offers snorkelling, trekking, fishing and kayaking and bird watching. It's proximity to local villages also provides an opportunity to get to know the local culture. Fishing is also big here. There are two sport fishing boats "Offensive Tackle" and "Bite Me" that will take you beyond the reef to catch billfish, Spanish mackerel, mahi mahi and other varieties. Surfing is big at Matava. The Great Astrolabe Reef, offers perfect uncrowded waves. There are three breaks that produce long barreling waves anywhere from 2-12 feet. Each passage offers varied conditions that will suit all styles, levels and egos.

Accommodations are traditional thatched Fijian bures with polished timber floors, louver windows, timber four poster beds and private decks.  They are private, comfortable offer great seascapes. In addition to private accommodations with bathroom, there are also there are private bures with shared bathroom facilities and a dorm that sleeps up to five people. Prices range from F$60 for private bures with shared facilities to the Honeymoon bure for F$170. Price for dorm is $F20. Full adult meal plan is F$55. (www.matavafiji.com)

Taveuni

For a couple wanting some privacy with a terrific seascape, check out Todranisiga a mere 5 minute walk from the airport. Operated by the winsome May Golding, born and raised in Fiji, she offers three great bures with bedroom, a spacious bathroom, kitchenette, outdoor shower and spectacular views. May (see photo below) also provides lots of goodies such as seasonal fruit from her garden (bananas, passion fruit, green drinking coconuts, papaya, etc) which is available daily. She may also surprise you with baked goods such as muffins, banana bread, scones and the like free of charge. Price is $US155 and she’ll discount you 10% for a stay of over 7 days.  May’s place is a great option for divers—you’re only a five minute walk from two dive operators. This is a winner. (www.todranisiqa.com)

Karin’s Garden which is comfortable, modern and Teutonically clean. It has a wonderful observation deck perched on a cliff with that affords a fantastic view a 100 meters or so down from the bungalow.   (Great place for a sunset glass of wine.) The accommodation is essentially a self-contained duplex with which at $US120, has the best bang for the buck of any midrange accommodation on the island.  Karin will also cook meals for you and, she’s a good in the kitchen.  It's approximately a 10 minute walk from the air strip at Matei. (www.karinsgardenfiji.com)

In the same price range consider, Makaira, perched on a cliff overlooking the Somosomo Straights is located a 15-minute walk from the airport just opposite the Tramonto Restaurant on heading towards Waiyevo.  Run by Roberta Davis, a Hawaii native, it’s situated on three acres of former coconut plantation with a white sand beach a two minute walk down the hill. There’s only two bures but they are well appointed with hardwood floors, phone, spacious bathroom, single bedroom, kitchenette and an indoor (as well as) outdoor shower. The 180 degree view is spectacular.  Price is $US155 and she’ll discount you 10% for a stay of over 7 days. Activities include fishing, snorkeling and kayaking. They have their our own boat and offer fishing charters. They also offer fresh fish one day a week (open to the public) on Tuesdays. Roberta’s partner is John Llanes, an expert sports fisherman also from Hawaii. www.fijibeachfrontatmakaira.com)

Vanua Levu

Almost Paradise is located on Sau Bay on the eastern side of Vanua Levu -- a 35 minute boat ride from Taveuni or a 20 minute boat ride from Buca Bay on Vanua Levu.  It's run by two former firefighters, Bruce & Geri-Sue Jacobson from San Clememte, CA . Geri-Sue is a divemaster who works for nearby Dolphin Bay Divers, so diving guests can easily hop on the boat with her on the mornings for some diving. The property is in a very sheltered spot with great snorkeling and a sandy beach close by. Boat rides to Rainbow Reef are priced to just cover gas, so it's a set price per trip regardless of how many people are in the boat. They just opened up in 2007, so everything is quite new (but not luxurious). In addition to the 3 meals/day (included in price), they serve appetizers at 5pm.. In general the food was quite good (international menu, heavier on American fare). Most of the wooden furniture was made by them. This is a great place for people who want a small, quiet place to stay at a reasonable price and don't need a bunch of organized activities. Ssea kayaks are available. Rates are $195.00 FJD/day for 2 people. A third person added to a bure is an extra $75.00 FJD/day. Thanks to Monika Chase for her contribution to this piece. (For more info go to www.almostparadisefiji.com).

Savusavu Hot Springs Hotel in the midst of downtown Savusavu is a great bet if you want to stay in town. Run by a local couple, Lorna and Tim Eden, they have 48 rooms that have recently been upgraded. Perhaps the best thing about the place is the splendid view of Savusavu Bay--one of the most spectacular bodies of water in Fiji. In addition to the regular hotel rooms, they also have inexpensive dorms. Otherwise, prices for standard rooms start at F$95 and tops out at F$155 for a more luxurious room.  It's a great place meet local people and there's often entertainment such as live bands on the weekends. They also offer inexpensive diving, bush treks and sport fishing. (www.savusavufiji.com)

I'm also fond of Daku Resort. It's under new management/ownership and was purchased by a former guest. Situated in a former coconut plantation by the sea (within walking distance town) they cater to the mid-range demographics and cater to families, couples, groups and long terms guests who need cooking facilities. It's friendly and very quiet. Divers are also welcomed. (They work in conjunction with Jean Michel Cousteau's operation located close by). They offer four different types of accommodation starting at F$95 for ocean view bures; two double bures that can handle up to 8 people (F$110); a villa that can handle a family of five or six (F$ $150); a beachhouse with a large verandah , open living room, three bedrooms, one large bath and kitchen and a " Poolhouse" that can sleep six to eight with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, lounge, kitchen and a large covered deck. (www.dakuresort.com)

Yasawa Group

Nacula Island is located a short distance north of Turtle Island in central Yasawa and 85 miles north of Nadi International Airport. The northern most island where tourist properties have been established is Nacula which has three highly recommended high end backpacker retreats with higher end accommodations as well. All have excellent white sand beaches, good food, lots of water activities (such as kayaking and diving) and limited electricity provided by gas or diesel powered generators. Some (but not all) have local style thatched roof bures. They also offer proximity to Fijian Villages which many resorts in Fiji do not offer.

Oarsman’s Bay Lodge is on a 1200 meter long white sandy beach--the best beach in the area-- and has six individual and two family bures. There is also a 13- bed dormitory with shared facilities built above a dining and bar area. Oarsman is preferable for couples--it's not exclusively for backpackers. Prices start at $42.00 for dorms ($25 for tents) and tops out at $210 for a family bure. Meal plans are just under $50/day. Oarsman's gets consistently good reviews from readers.

(www.oarsmansbay.com)

Tavewa is a small, high island approximately 12 km in circumference. It is entirely freehold or privately held land, owned by a number of local families. Getting from one side to the other is no more than a ten minute walk. There are no vehicles, roads or stores. It's lush with vegetation and fruit trees include papaya and mango.

Otto & Fanny Doughty's is located on flat grassy areas just a stone's throw from the beach, shaded by coconut palms.  It occuppies a white sand beach that slopes gently into the sea. Food at Fanny's is a cut or two above. Henry, Fanny & Otto Doughty's son, is a trained chef and regularly bakes for guests. Afternoon tea is served by him and at the other properties as well. Otto &

Fanny's is also a cut above in quality of

accommodations. They have two excellent family bures which sleep four. (Theh can also provide cribs.) Private Bures cost $190.00 including 3 meals per day per couple. They are self contained and feature amenities like fridges and private bath. There is also a dormitory with 8 single beds and shared facitilties of a toilet and bathroom. Dorm Room cost is $90 including 3 meals per day per person. (Photo of Otto and Fanny courtesy of Sarah Valentine--www.ottoandfanny.com)

Nanuya Lailai  the island where the Brook Shields movie – “The Blue Lagoon” was filmed is the home of five (mostly backpacker) properties. On the northern end is Nanuya Island Resort which has a wonderful white sand beach and all the amenities including diving, kayaking, fly fishing and village visits. (It's not a backpacker facility.)  The thatched bures (four deluxe and four traditional) are a cut or two above the rest.  Amenities for villas include, fan, queen size bed and 2 single beds with private bathroom (hot and cold running water ) and fridge.. Each unit can accommodate a maximum of 4 guests. The smaller bures have a double/twin size bed with bath . Each bure can accommodate a maximum of 2 people. Prices start at around US$100 per night double occupancy not inlcuding food. No dorms here so it's better for couples who want privacy. (www.nanuyafiji.com)

Octopus Resort on Waya Island is situated on gorgeous stretch of white sand beach on Waya Island, far off the beaten track. Though basic and minimalist, the environs are tastefully decorated and carefully thought out. The source of electricity is solar panels and there is plenty of good potable water available. Currently there is only cold water but this may change. There is one main structure, an open air bar/dining area shaded by a canopy. It has a sand floor and a small walkup bar that serves very cold beer. There are 17 large, simple bures designed for double occupancy but can house up to ten individuals if necessary. Bure's can accommodate, singles, couples and families. Each bure has its own private bathroom featuring a commercial grade, environmentally friendly solar powered hot water system. There are also open roofed showers which are now ubiquitous throughout Fiji.  The restaurant offerings include spaghetti, omlettes and very fresh seafood, chop suey, chicken dishes at reasonable prices. Though not a backpacker property,

Octopus does provide a 13 person dormitory which they like to say is the best in Fiji. That may be true.  It's equipped with single beds (rather than bunks) a quality pillow, mosquito net, bedside table, reading lamp and fan. Dorm beds are supplied with fresh clean linen, towels and a beach towel daily. Prices range from F$30 with dorm beds to F$199 for the luxurious "lodge" rooms. Food is F$40 per day for three meals. (www.octopusresort.com).

Octopus has its own transfer vessel, the Amberley, a 35 ft purpose built aluminum tri-hull water taxi. The Amberley departs daily from Lautoka at 10am and takes approximately 90 minutes to reach the resort. Price of a transfer is F$70 for adults and F$35 for children (3-10 yrs) which includes round trip. (www.octopusresort.com)

Skipping down to the southernmost island in the chain is another upmarket backpacker property I’ve heard good things about called Kuata Island Resort. It's just south of Waya on the island of Kuata and has accommodations ranging from dorms (F$60 including meals) to deluxe bures (F$180 not including meals).  It has all the usal activities and specializes in visits to the local village.  (www.pacific-resorts.com/fiji/kuata-resort)

For planning trips to the Yasawa Group in particular (as well as trave around Viti Levu) consider using Margaret Travel Service in Nadi. She knows the properties well and is honest.



   

© Rob Kay 2008