Nadi

First Landing Resort is called so because according to local legend, the first Fijians arrived around 1500 BC, landing on what now is the beach at this resort. Run by former Peace Corps volunteer, Jim Dunn, it's located just 15 minutes from Nadi Airport heading towards Lautoka. It's a Safe and quiet retreat from the hustle of nearby Nadi and Lautoka. There are 32, well constructed bures with rates that start at US$166 ($F285). All feature air conditioning, ceiling fans, bar fridge, Telephone, and Internet connection. The vibe is good, it's relaxed and the environs are excellent. Marc Carignan, an executive coach from San Diego and guest at the property found the accommodations impressive. His bure was newly constructed and had two rooms, a screened in front porch with polished wooden floors, a large bedroom with table, sofa, TV, bath with Jacuzzi and ceramic tile floors. The food was excellent and he liked the ecclectic menu which ranged from European dishes to dhal soup. Breakfast included g reat local fruits and home cooked muffins. The only downside there isn't much of a swimming beach at First Landing. The reef prevents one from wading too far. The conclusion--if you don't need to be close to town, this is a great choice. Yachties using the nearby Vuda Point Marina will especially appreciate this property. It's close to the harbor and they are welcomed by the resort management.

Coral Coast (and Beqa)

Hideaway Resort located on the beach 20 km east of Sigatoka (about an hour drive from Nadi) is an exception. That's in large part because it's owned and operated by the Wade family, an entrepreneurial bunch that pays close attention to detail. It started out originally as a family vacation property and even had a dorm unit catering to backpackers.  The dorm is gone and Hideaway has since morphed into a more upscale resort.

Situated on a strip of land between the main road and the beach, it is definitely one of the better  mid-range hotels on the Coral Coast. With 100 units it's big but the Wades are constantly upgrading things.  In the last few years its 16 original, A-frame type units have been refurbished. The newest additions are the deluxe Villas which are spacious and well appointed with tile floors, pastel stucco walls, trim of local timber. They resemble as, Frommer's said "smaller and much less expensive versions of the bungalows at Vatulele Island Resort" and I agree. 

Hideaway's beach (like most Coral Coast resorts) is nothing special. However snorkeling, kayaking, windsurfing and other water sports are available. There's also a 25 meter multi purpose swimming pool, gymnasium and a 5 Palm Padi Dive School. Surfing, is decent, and the break a right hander called "Hideaways" which is located in front of the resort is easily accessible and can really pump if the wind is right. Prices start at F$320 for the Frangipani bure, $F350 for the Ocean View units, $430 for the Beachfront Villas and F$510.00 for the two-bedroom units.

Author's Note: Beqa, located offshore from the Coral Coast, is only fifteen square kilometers, and has no roads, no towns and only a few isolated villages scattered around the perimeter.  Beqa (pronounced Benga) is surrounded by one of the largest barrier reefs in the world and lies 8 km South off Viti Levu about 130 km from Nadi. Although isolated, the advantage of staying here (say vs. the Mamanuca Group) is that you'll experience a much greater sense of Fijian hospitality.  The locals that live here are true villagers and because of the rural nature of the island they are naturally friendlier.  They simply see fewer visitors that locals who live in Nadi or the Coral Coast.

The Beqa Lagoon Resort (formally Marlin Bay Resort) is located on a gorgeous spot on on Beqa Lagoon and has recieved excellent reviews from readers (particularly surfers and divers). The grounds are beautifully landscaped and just behind the resort the land slopes into a tropical forest where you can visit a waterfall. The bures have oceans views and overlook a koi pond. They  are large, air conditioned with marble baths, lovely 4-poster king beds and out front have an outside hammock and

chaise lounges. The water from the tap is drinkable and comes from a nearby spring.

The chef is reportedly excellent. He features an appetizer and two main course choices for dinner. The menu changes daily with fish every dinner and chicken and other “turf” options rotating. All are prepared with flair from fresh ingredients. Desserts were wonderful and varied. The workers, mostly people from the neighboring villages of Ravi Ravi and Rakua are friendly and accommodating. The beach at Beqa was small, with a lot of coral rubble with few areas of nice sand. There are a couple of other nearby beaches accessible by walking or kayaking, but aren't much better. There s great live local music at dinner every night and there are occasional "meke" (traditional dance) as well as firewalking. (In case you didn't know Beqa is the home of Fijian fire walking). No TV at the resort, which is nice. Phone and Internet connection are available at the office--not at the rooms. Snorkeling is decent, with a long reef about 50 meters out over the flats with the bottom at around 10 meters and the top at 0-1 meter depending on the tide. You can see longnose filefish, clownfish, lots of small tropicals, some small tridacnas, lots of Christmas tree worms. The water is typically cloudy. Other activities include excellent surfing, diving and fishing. (At various times of the year you can bag big pelagics such as yellow fin tuna, Black Marlin, Barracuda,Blue Marlin, Wahoo and Spanish Mackerel). Prices begin at  around US$300.00 per night for Garden View or Koi Pond Villa and go up to US$400 Honeymoon Villa. Gourmet Meal Plan (Adult; 3 meals daily) is $60.00.

Suva

Holiday Inn, with 130 rooms, targets mostly business travelers is clearly the best upmarket property in Suva. Located on the ocean, on Victoria Parade, it’s with in easy walking distance of downtown Suva. It’s been completely renovated and will soon be set up for broadband Internet service in each room.  I particularly like the expansive lounge which makes a nice venue for cocktails and outdoor area along side their where you can watch the sun set. Staff is very attentive. Prices start at F$150 (US$87)per night.  The superior rooms for F$320 (US$186) are huge and offer every amenity such as TV, fridge, deck, and aircon that can be tweaked to your comfort level. (www.pacific-resorts.com/fiji/holiday-inn-suva/)

Another good high end property is JJ’s on the Park boutique hotel (22 rooms) located in what was the YWCA Bldg off Ratu Sukuna Park. Catering to businessmen, its location is within walking distance of anywhere downtown making it handy for banking, government ministries, etc. Each room could lay claim to being a business center with phone, fax, and Internet connection.  Views of the harbor from all rooms and balconies are spectacular. Prices start at F$250 (US$145). There's a nice cozy feel to the place.

Rakiraki (Viti Levu)

Wananavu is perched on a hillside overlooking the sea and Nananu-i-ra,a private resort island. It's located on the northeast corner of Viti Levu island in the heart of sugar cane country. There are 15 bures, more akin to cottages, spread out over large expanse of land planted with coconut palms, hibiscus and other vegetation. There are also three two bedroom villas. All the units are large and sport lacquered natural pine interiors and "Vesi" hardwood floors. They can accommodate upto four people. There is a comfortable, King-sized bed and a modern, large, extremely clean tiled bathroom. Several hundred feet below the cabins is a swimming beach. There are benches, shade trees and a fine view of the island offshore. There is some snorkeling directly offshore but the owners assured me the fish and coral viewing was much better on Nananu-i-ra. Day trips to the island are arranged on a regular basis.  Food is good and specials such as fresh sea food or steak are available on a daily basis. The wine selection is quite good with a fine array of New Zealand and Australian wines. The dining and bar area overlooks the sea and there is adeck if you prefer to dine outdoors. Actvities are mosly water-oriented. Given its relative isolation, the attraction is the magnficent country-side and seascapes. Note that Wananavu is located two hours by car from Nadi. One can either rent a car or hire cab from the Nadi Airport. Room prices start at US$151 (double) for the Gardenview Bure and range up to US$350 for the Honeymoon Bure. Self contained units are available for US$293 (double).

Kadavu

Papageno, operated by German-born Anneliese Schimmelpfennig, has received great reviews from readers. It's an eco-friendly property with only 15 rooms available.  As the owner says, "On our 350 acre ocean-front resort, you may not see any other guests until you head for the dining area. This "low-density" principle is further helped by barriers of jungle trees, bushes and flowers." Indeed. Most of the food is grown in the resort's organic gardens (which you can tour), raised in their own pens, laid in their own hen house, or caught in the sea by the local villagers (or the guests!). There are two varieties of accommodations-- Deluxe Ocean Bures (with bath) built a few meters from a white sand beach and " Garden rooms" roughly 125 meters inland surrounded on three sides by jungle orchards of breadfruit, mango and avocado, with a stream on your front doorstep. Activities include diving, fishing, kayaking and even gospel singing if you're in the mood. Yoga retreats are also held on the property from time to time. All meals are included in the cost of your accommodations and it's gourmet all the way. Prices are $245 USD per night double occupancy for Garden rooms and $370 USD per night for the Ocean Bures.( www.papagenoecoresort.com)

Likewise, I've had wonderful reports from readers about Tiliva Resort a family run operation situated on the north east portion of Kadavu, a 15 minute boat ride from the airstrip. Located on a white sand beach, Tiliva is only five bures which the owners refer to as "chalets". With high ceilings, the bures are airy and comfortable, with queen beds, giant showers and breezy covered porches offer-ing comfortable chairs. The tiled bathrooms have modern fixtures and plenty of hot water.  There is no air con but the ceiling fans work just fine.  The cooking was above par and plentiful with food that ranged from very good to outstanding. There were original combinations of local and Western cuisine; the fish dishes (including kokoda, a ceviche type dish made from lime and coconut milk) are especially good and one visitor said "you could become an addict of their coconut sauces which is known locally as lolo. In addition to fish, steak, chicken, and pork chops were also served. In addition to the expected activities --diving, snorkeling, kayaking, fishing, trekking, village visit and bird watching there's some unusual attractions.  These include a demonstration of mat making, a demo how to make coconut oil and a guided tour with local vuniwai a traditional healer who utilizes local plants.  As another reader from said, "The owners, Kemu and Barbara, will do anything to make you happy and comfortable." Prices are F$525.00 per night double occupancy for a  Beachfront bure and F$420.00 per night double occupancy for a Garden bure. (Photos courtesy of Tiliva Resort)

( www.tilivaresortfiji.com)

It's been a few years since I've been to Dive Kadavu but from all reports this is a property that has managed to keep its standards high. As with all Kadavu properties you are transported from the airport by boat to the resort, and you wade to in the water to/from shore. It's always a good idea to bring foul weather gear so that if the water is choppy, you don't get too wet.  The property is set near the beach with eight of the bures are very close to the shore, and two set back.  Each unit has its own bathroom (with hot water), ceiling fans, bed-lamps, verandah, fly screening and external rinse shower. You have an option of getting a queen size bed or 2 singles. Two of the rooms have two bedrooms which can accommodate up to four people. The bures at the end (number 9 and 10) are the best if you want to get away from the main area where there is more foot traffic. (The website--www.divekadavu.com has an excellent virtual tour to give you a good idea of  the layout.) The rooms are in good shape and are cleaned daily. They units are roomy and some offer great views of the ocean and sunsets. Food is served in a main dining area. Breakfast is buffet-style, and you are obligated to specify lunch and dinner choices during breakfast from a limited menu, which is posted in the morning. Food runs from "so-so" to very good. I enjoyed the  Indian-style curries. Occasionally they will do traditional Fijian lovo-style cooking which is akin to the Hawaiian luau using hot rocks to steam fish, pork, yams, taro, etc which are wrapped with banana leaf. Fish is often brought to the kitchen alive and often served as a sushi appetizer. The Australian and New Zealand wines are quite good. Ambience at the resort is very friendly. Your meals are often taken with the owners and staff, so you get to know everyone quickly. Most of the resort workers come from the local village and this provides a great opportunity to get to know the local people which could include village visits and attending church services. (Above photos courstesy of Dive Kadavu). In addition to diving which is of course the main attraction, there's also kayaking.birdwatching, trekking and snorkeling. Rates beging at US180 for singles or $US160 for double occupancy. Prices include airport transfers, 3 meals a day, taxes. (Photos courtesy of Dive Kadavu.)

Taveuni

Maravu (next door to Makaira) is located about two km from the airport and is perched on a hill which overlooks the sea. The views are marvellous. Scattered over 88 acres of verdant, manicured grounds are 21 bures. The older ones were "correct" as the French like to say but the newest ones, renovated in 2004/05, are of a much higher standard. For example the Oceanview Spa Villa has a private open-air courtyard with an outdoor shower (which seems to be the rage in Fiji nowadays), a sun deck and a large Jacuzzi Pool with waterfall. There is a decent restaurant on the property with a small bar. The cuisine can be good but service can be slow. There is no beach on the property but a 3-4 minute walk will bring you to a white sand beach (across the road) which has good snorkeling. The resort is run by a German couple (Joachim and Angela) who purchased the resort a number of years ago. Prices start at US$180 per person for a single or US$130 per person/per night Double and tops out at US$ 375.00 for the Treehouse. There are plenty of excursions available and divers are welcomed thought it's technically not a dive resort. In 2008 Maravu received prestigious awards of excellence from TripAdvisor.com and AAA Tourism Australia which rated Maravu at 4 1/2 stars.

Vanua Levu

Tropic Splendor Beachfront Cottage, one of the newest properties in Vanua Levu, is a fully self contained bungalow located a 20 minute drive outside of Savusavu on the north shore of Savusavu Bay. I was apprised of it by Leslie O'Day a Reno, Nevada resident, who had a very positive experience there as a guest. She and her husband not only liked the amenities, but they liked their hosts (fellow Americans Jeff and Susan Mather) who live on the property and took the extra effort to get them involved in the local community.  (They did this by introducing them to other residents and taking them to local functions at the local tourism association and the Rotary Club.)

The unit, which is built and furnished to a high quality American standard, is just steps from the beach and has a 600 sq ft interior space and 600 sq ft verandah. There are polished native hardwood floors and a natural wood interior decorated with Fijian handicrafts made by local craftsmen. Mrs. O'Day liked the attention to detail on the property that her hosts provided such as the wrap around porch that "begs for a visit with its cushioned lounge chairs and hammock." There's also an outdoor garden shower with flowers and shells that she found romantic. The bedroom has a king-sized bed draped with netting, luxury linens, towels and tiled bathroom with hair dryer, heated towel rack and shower. Other amenities include telephone, radio & CD player, reading library, TV, DVD player and 400+ movie library. The daily Rate (double accommodation) is F$360.00 or about US$209. This is the type of place that would be attractive for visitors who want a quality accommodation but don't need or want a hotel setting.

(www.tropic-splendor-fiji.com)

Moody's Namenalala Island is a 110-acre resort and nature reserve, 24 km south of Vanua Levu (off Wainunu Bay) and 32 km north-west of Koro. It houses twelve guests in six hand-crafted bures situated among trees and jungle vegetation. The island is crisscrossed with paths that lead to precipitous cliffs and lonely beaches. As one observer said, it’s as close to a “Survivor” scenario as you’re likely to see.

The accommodations feature floor-to-ceiling sliding wooden doors on three sides so that you’ll both get a get views and the cooling effect of the wonderful trade winds. The visitor is treated to a canopied king-sized bed with mosquito netting and the sounds of the sea lapping at the shore.

The owners, Tom and Joan Moody, make use of both fossil fuels and solar energy. Each unit has a propane tank to heat the shower water, a hot plate for coffee, and to power the gas lamps. Roof gutters capture rainwater (no well water on this island) which is stored in a cistern below the floors. Seawater is used for flushing the toilets. A solar panel powers a small reading light and fan over the bed. 

Moody's prides itself on using local vegetables and fruits into their menu to create a blend of South Pacific/International Cuisine. They make various soups including the local pumpkin (squash) and rourou (taro leaves which looks like boiled spinach.) Dinners include cassava, dalonitano, kumala as the starch; tubua (local spinach), rourou, green pawpaw cooked in lolo (coconut milk) and a dessert specialty is coconut pie rather than cheesecake. We often bake the pumpkin as Americans bake Acorn squash (a bit of butter, bacon bits and brown sugar). A variety of pasta dishes minus the tomato sauce (vegetables, parmesan cheese and tossed in olive oil). The island grows loads of papaya (pawpaw) so their cuisine serves homemade papaya jam and fresh-squeezed blend of papaya, lemon, mango (when in season), etc. In keeping with the ethnic Indian population, they also serve local curries.
You’re not going to starve here.

The most stunning aspect is the pristine state of the flora and fauna. Because in the past there was no constant supply of fresh water, the island never supported a permanent human population. Consequently the island remained undisturbed. The Moody’s have in fact left the island a wildlife sanctuary. Turtles lay their eggs on the beaches and other fauna such as flying foxes, small colonies of red-footed boobies and other bird life can be seen. Guests often include birders as well as divers.