Kadavu (pronounced Kahn-da-voo), has a population
of approximately 8700 and lies only 88 kilometers south of Suva. Kadavu is approximately
48 kilometers in length and varies in width from 365 meters to 13 kilome
ters. Its
area is 411 square kilometers, just a bit less than Taveuni. Kadavu has several high
mountains and numerous precipitous cliffs. In short it is a rugged island with few
roads, which makes water taxis the prime mode of transportation. The airport, a government
station and a new hospital are located at the eastern end of the island in the village
of Vunisea. Note that most of the resorts on Kadavu are nowhere near the airstrip-you must be met and ferried another 30- to 60 minutes by small craft to your destination.
Despite its proximity to the population center of Viti Levu, the population of Kadavu is deeply conservative. Perhaps the conservatism can be traced to the difficulty of getting around the island and the resulting isolation of its communities. Though remote, Kadavu is well known by divers for its rich diversity of undersea life, particularly in the Astrolabe Reef. Likewise there is a great deal of terrestrial flora and fauna of interest, particularly the birds. The colorful Kadavu Parrot, which is now a protected species, can be easily observed. Over the last five to ten years a number of fine low-end and mid-range properties have sprouted up on Kadavu. For visitors interested in getting away from the typical tourist haunts of the Nadi area, Kadavu is a good option. If you are not a diver, surfing during the winter months is quite good. Kadavu can be reached by air from Nadi and Suva. There are also regularly scheduled transport boats from Suva.
Geography
The Kadavu group is volcanic in nature, the main island being Kadavu, which is 93 km long and varies in width from several hundred metres to 13 km. It has an area of 408 sq km. All its coasts are deeply indented, some bays biting so far into the land that they almost divide the island. One geographer has suggested that the shape of Kadavu resembles that of a wasp, with the head, thorax and abdomen linked by narrow waists. Thus Vunisea (where the administrative center is), Namalata Bay and Galoa Harbor are separated by only a sandy isthmus standing a few meters above sea level; and at Vunisea the heads of Daku Bay and Soso Bay are within 1100 meters of each other, with only a low ridge between. This same characteristic occurs elsewhere on the island to a varying 
degree; the shape and arrangement of these bays suggests that they may be drowned valleys.
Kadavu is rugged and its mountains are high for so narrow an island. Several peaks rise more than 600 meters, while many are half that size. Coasts are generally fringed with coral reefs, the most famous being the 48-km loop of the Great Astrolabe Reef on Kadavu's northern extension.
The island can be divided into several main areas. The western end is 24 km long and dominated by Nabukelevu (Mt Washington), 822 metres high. Flanking the mountain on the southern side are lovely crescent-shaped beaches. From this peak a spur runs west to Cape Washington - a rocky bluff crowned by a lighthouse - and continues in a range terminating in a steep cross range overlooking Galoa Harbour. One of the most beautiful villages in Fiji, Daviqele, is in this area. The northern part of this region is called Yawe, known for its large earthenware cooking pottery still made by the women of Nalotu village. Most of the northern coast extending to the Sanima and Yale districts further east is dry and sheltered by reed-like vegetation and scattered reefs offshore. Much of the goat raising is done here.
The link between the island's western end and its centre is Namalata Isthmus, known to Fijians as Na Yarabale (literally, 'the place where the canoes are dragged across'). In the same area is the village of Namuana, home of the people who can call turtles from the sea.
Opposite the isthmus on the southern side is Galoa Harbour, and in the harbour is 2-1/2-km-long Galoa Island (after which the harbour was named). On the southernmost point of 
this part of the island is a tiny islet, Tawadromu, which was once home to an American Indian - the sole representative of his race among the mixed population of the period. Why he stayed and what he was doing there is anyone's guess. Further along the southern coast is the Naceva area, perhaps the most untouched and primeval in nature, with forests, mangrove swamps along the water's edge, many waterfalls and an ever-present mist hanging over the mountains.
The Ono Island group, enclosed by the Great Astrolabe Reef, has wonderful fishing and diving. Cruise ships sometimes stop at Dravuni Island, perhaps because there are great white-sand beaches. There is also a fisheries station. Yachts find the area appealing, but must first get a permit to stop there.
Rob's Choice of Accommodations:
I've heard nothing but good things about Matava, a resort popular with divers, located 
just off the Astrolabe Reef. With capacity to handle only 22 guests Matava offers an intimate setting. It's a PADI certified resort but in addition to diving, offers snorkelling, trekking, fishing and kayaking and bird watching. It's proximity to local villages also provides an opportunity to get to know the local culture. Getting to the resort requires an open boat ride of 45 minutes. Take your foul weather gear. If the wind is blowing, the splashing waves can give you a shower. The property is set on a lush hillside along a shallow sandy shoreline. The bures are scattered along the waterfront and up the hill. As one reader said, "this is a rustic resort, with simplicity, personality, charm, and good service." The management (Jeanne, Richard, and Adrian) as well as staff are attentive. The food is served buffet style for dinner, and family style for breakfast and lunch. Food is plentiful and a tasty combination of western and Fijian. Fishing is big here. There are two sport fishing boats "Offensive Tackle" and "Bite Me" that will take you beyond the reef to catch billfish, Spanish mackerel, mahi mahi and other varieties. Surfing is big at Matava. The Great Astrolabe Reef, offers perfect uncrowded waves. There are three breaks that produce long barreling 
waves anywhere from 2-12 feet. Each passage offers varied conditions that will suit all styles, levels and egos. Accommodations are traditional thatched Fijian bures with polished timber floors, louver windows, timber four poster beds and private decks. They are private, comfortable offer great seascapes. In addition to private accommodations with bathroom, there are also there are private bures with shared bathroom facilities and a dorm that sleeps up to five people. Prices range from F$60 for private bures with shared facilities to the Honeymoon bure for F$170. Price for dorm is $F20. Full adult meal plan is F$55 per person. (Photos courtesy of Matava).
Likewise, I've had wonderful reports from readers about
Tiliva Resort a family run operation situated on the north east portion of Kadavu, a 15 minute
boat ride from the airstrip. Located on a white sand beach, Tiliva is only five bures which the owners refer to as "chalets". With high ceilings, the bures are airy and cozy, with queen beds, giant showers and breezy covered porches offering comfortable chairs. The tiled bathrooms have modern fixtures and plenty of hot water. There is no air con but the ceiling fans work just fine. The cooking was above par and plentiful with food that ranged from very good to outstanding. There were creative combinations of local and Western cuisine; the fish dishes (including kokoda, a ceviche-like dish made from lime and coconut milk) are especially good. One visitor said "you could become an addict of their coconut sauces" known locally as lolo. In addition to fish, steak, chicken, and pork chops were also served. In addition to the expected activities--diving, snorkel-ing, kayaking, fishing, trekking, village visit and bird watching 
there's some unusual attractions. These include a demonstration of mat making, a demo how to make coconut oil and, a guided tour with local vuniwai a traditional healer who utilizes local plants. As another visitor said, "The owners, Kemu and Barbara, will do anything to make you happy and comfortable." Prices are F$525.00 per night double occupancy for a Beachfront bure and F$420.00 per night double occupancy for a Garden bure. (Photos courtesy of Tiliva.)
It's been a few years since I've been to Dive Kadavu but from all reports this is a property that has managed to keep its standards high. As with all Kadavu properties you are transported from the airport by boat to the resort, and you wade to in the water to/from shore. It's always a good idea to bring foul weather gear so
that if the water is choppy, you don't get too wet. The property is set near the beach with eight of the bures are very close to the shore, and two set back. Each unit has its own bathroom (with hot water), ceiling fans, bed-lamps, verandah, fly screening and external rinse shower. You have an option of getting a queen size bed or 2 singles. Two of the rooms have two bedrooms which can accommodate up to four people. The bures at the end (number 9 and 10) are the best if you want to get away from the main area where there is more foot traffic. (The website--www.divekadavu.com has an excellent virtual tour to give you a good idea of the layout.) The rooms are in good shape and are cleaned daily. They units are roomy and some offer great views of the ocean and sunsets. Food is served in a main dining area. Breakfast is buffet-style, and you are obligated to specify lunch and dinner choices during breakfast from a limited menu, which is posted in the morning. Food runs from "so-so" to very good. I enjoyed the Indian-style curries. Occasionally they will do traditional Fijian lovo-style cooking which is akin to the Hawaiian luau using hot rocks to 
steam fish, pork, yams, taro, etc which are wrapped with banana leaf. Fish is often brought to the kitchen alive and often served as a sushi appetizer. The Australian and New Zealand wines are excellent.. Ambience at the resort is very friendly. Your meals are often taken with the owners and staff, so you get to know everyone quickly. Most of the resort workers come from the local village and this provides a great opportunity to get to know the local people which could include village visits and attending church services. (Above photos courstesy of Dive Kadavu). In addition to diving which is of course the main attraction, there's also kayaking.birdwatching, trekking and snorkeling. Rates beging at US180 for singles or $US160 for double occupancy. Prices include
airport transfers, 3 meals a day, taxes. (Photos courtesy of Dive Kadavu.)
Moving up the price ladder, Papageno is also worth looking into. Operated by a German woman, Anneliese Schimmelpfennig (who spent many years in California), it has received great reviews from readers. It's an eco-friendly 
property with only 15 rooms available. As the owner says, "On our 350 acre ocean-front resort, you may not see any other guests until you head for the dining area. This "low-density" principle is further helped by barriers of jungle trees, bushes and flowers." Indeed. Most of the food is grown in the resort's organic gardens (which you can tour), raised in their own pens, laid in their own hen house, or caught in the sea by the local villagers (or the guests!). There are two varieties of accommodations-- Deluxe Ocean Bures (with bath) built a few meters from a white sand beach and " Garden rooms" roughly 125 meters inland surrounded on three sides by jungle orchards of breadfruit, mango and avocado, with a stream on your front doorstep. Activities include diving, fishing,
kayaking and even gospel singing if you're in the mood. Yoga retreats are also held on the property from time to time. All meals are included in the cost of your accommodations and it's gourmet all the way. Prices are $245 USD per night double occupancy for Garden rooms and $370 USD per night for the Ocean Bures.
A few things to do:
Diving is first class on this island and all the resorts have dive operations. Trekking to some is also possible and overnight stays in villages can be negotiated through some of the resorts. Surfing, as mentioned above is can also be quite good but rather inconsistent compared to Tavarua and Namotu. Bird life is rich and no doubt you'll spot a parrot while you're on the island. You'll also be offered kava, which is exceptionally strong on Kadavu. Finally, kayaking has become a big deal on Kadavu so take advantage of it.
Thanks to Paddy Ryan for the sunset and parrot shots.
