Nadi
(and Lautoka area)
NADI
Once a small community of farmers and shopkeepers, Nadi has mushroomed into a 
mini megalopolis of approximately 25,000 inhabitants - Fiji's third-largest city. Hawaii's real estate boom and the recognition that Nadi is Fiji's tourism capital have resulted in tremendous growth of the past few years. The area surrounding Nadi - a patchwork of sugar cane fields - has the highest concentration of hotels and resorts in the entire country. This is where most visitors spend a lot of their time because of its proximity to the airport (nine km from the town) and the fine weather.
Formerly a huge sugar growing community, Nadi is a hot, dry town, little more than one long main drag. However, it's growing, mostly fueled by the tourism industry. Nadi town (along with Suva) is perhaps the best place in Fiji to pick up souvenirs. In addition there are good places to eat.
Though the town may not appeal to everyone, the surrounding countryside is rolling
and verdant, the beaches are relatively unpopulated, and the mountainous region (known as the Nausori Highlands) to the east is nothing short of spectacular. Seeing the Nausori Highlands is well worth it but roads can be rough and/or muddy and car rental agencies wouldn't be happy if they knew you had plans to explore remote areas.
Having a large Indian population, Nadi is a religious center for Muslims and Hindus. The major place of worship for Hindus is the multi- chromatic new Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple on the east side of town. The Hindu shrine is reportedly the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. Visitors are welcomed but cameras are tabu on the temple grounds. Be sure to take off your shoes before entering.
Rob's Picks--Nadi Accommodations
Nadi has numerous accommodation of every stripe ranging from the 5-star resort ghetto in Denarau to barebones backpacker haunts in Nadi town. My last count had nearly sixty properties in and around the greater Nadi area. Here are my top choices broken down into budget, midrange and 5-star categories.
Backpacker/Budget
Heaven’s Edge is a Spartan backpacker facility in the highlands perched on the edge of a mountain with both dorm and bures. The nearly 360 degree views are spectacular. It's an hour and a half drive from the main road. The turnoff to get there is about three or four clicks from the Nadi airport heading north.) It's operated by the landowners belonging to the Qoqa Mataqali (clan) and the big plus is that you'll have a great opportunity to interact with Fijians. Local hiking and exploration are the main activities. Rates start at F$50 per person which includes 3 meals a day.
An eleven-minute drive from Nadi but still remote, Stoney Creek Resort lies on a hilltop at the foot of the Sabeto Mountains as a mecca for weary beach bums. Here, there is much more to do than soak up the sun. With endless hiking throughout the interior, you will see a different face of Fiji. It has both camping/ dorm ($27.5) and bure facilities that start at $50 for the love shack and go up to $140 for deluxe rooms. Activities include mountain biking, trekking, kayaking, horseback riding and other outdoor fun and, with an active and helpful Activities Desk, finding adventure is easy. Don't forget to set up your complimentary taxi shuttle from the airport.
Nomads Skylodge is perhaps the closest backpackers facility to the
airport with a wide range of accommodations, ranging from bare bones dorm ($22) to rooms deluxe rooms ($58) with phone, TV, tea/coffee, fridge, etc. It's on a lush 11 acre tract of land fully loaded with a newly renovated bar and restaurant. Open a book poolside for some carefree relaxation and break a sweat playing basketball, volleyball or one of the many activities Nomads offers. (www.nomadsskylodge.com.fj.)
Nadi Bay Hotel has been one of my favorite Nadi budget accommodations for years. Located a 10-minute drive from the airport, they have a wide selection of accommodation ranging from dorms (starting at $F21) and rooms (ranging from $56.00 to $82.00) to air-conditioned apartments starting at $95.00. It's a far cry from the threadbare operation it was a decade or two ago.(www.fijinadibayhotel.com).
Of late, Nadi has sprouted a whole category of budget properties located on New Town aka Wailoaloa Beach that is located between the airport and Nadi town. They are a bit off the main road but offer better food, service and accommodation than the skimpy 
dorms in town. Another great plus is that they are on the beach. Unless you need to be in town, it's much better to be near the ocean even though Wailoaloa is not Fiji greatest beach.
In this stretch of Beach, Smuggler's Cove outshines all of its neighbors as the newest addition to the strip. The scent of fresh paint still lingers in
the halls of this upscale backpackers resort. The beachfront rooms offer a view just as beautiful as any five star hotel of Nadi Bay. Also, down the road, Club Fiji Resort, displayed in the photo on right
(www.clubfiji-resort.com), and Beachside Resort (www.beachsideresortfiji.com) are also worthy of consideration. New Town can be either a great destination or staging point for further adventures in Fiji.
Mid-Range
Most of these are generally non-descript "motel" type properties but they are safe, clean and offer a modicum of comfort.
Capricorn International Hotel has 62 air-conditioned rooms. All rooms have a double/single separate bathroom and toilet/TV/Radio/tea & coffee making facilities. $85 superior, $95 pool side, $110 Double, $135.00 Suites, Children Sharing with adults under 12 yrs FOC It's located in the Martintar area of Nadi between the airport and Nadi Town. (www.fijifvb.gov.fj/accom/listing/capricon.htm)
The Fiji Mocambo is extremely handy because it's only three minutes from the airport. It's rather large (124 units) but its quiet, clean and the rooms spacious, the grounds are huge (42 acres) so if you want to take an evening stroll away from automobiles it's great. There's also a small golf course and a driving range on the property. Rates range from $180 to $240. (www.tourismfiji.com/010801)
First Landing Resort is called so because according to local legend, the first Fijians arrived around 1500 BC, landing on what now is the beach at this resort. Run by former Peace Corps volunteer, Jim Dunn, the property is located just 15 minutes from Nadi Airport heading towards Lautoka. It's a Safe and quiet retreat from the hustle of nearby Nadi and Lautoka. There are 32, well constructed bures with rates that start at $F285.00. All feature air conditioning, ceiling fans, bar fridge, Telephone, and Internet connection. The vibe is good, it's relaxed and the environs are excellent. Marc Carignan, an executive coach from San Diego and guest at the property found the accommodations impressive. His bure was newly constructed and had two rooms, a screened in front porch with polished wooden floors, a large bedroom with table, sofa, TV, bath with Jacuzzi and ceramic tile floors. The food was excellent and he liked the eclectic menu which ranged from European dishes to dhal soup. Breakfast included great local fruits and home cooked muffins. The only downside there isn't much of a swimming beach at First Landing. The reef prevents one from wading too far. The conclusion--if you don't need to be close to town, this is a great choice. Yachties using the nearby Vuda Point Marina will especially appreciate this property. It's close to the harbor and they are welcomed by the resort management.
Rosie’s Serviced Apartments is ideal if you’re coming to Nadi on business (or pleasure) and need kitchen facilities. It’s in Martintar, half way between Nadi town and the airport. rosiefiji@is.com.fj.
5 Star/Upscale
Down the road in Denaru, competition to the entrenched complex (which includes three very impressive Sheraton properties) has created an upscale ghetto. In addition to the Sheraton and a multi-million dollar condo development is the Sofitel (which opened up at the end of 2005), the Hilton, and the Radison.
The Denerau complex is located a 20-minute cab ride south of the airport. All the hotels are located on a brown sand beach—which is indistinguishable from Wailoaloa Beach where the backpacker properties proliferate just a few miles up the road. If you must have the best—go to Denarau.
On the upside, t he Sheraton's new renovation of the Westin creates a new realm of fantastic architecture and enchanting comfort. The dimly lit ambience of the bar and patio is exactly how Fijian nights should be celebrated. The Heavenly Spa is a new addition where guests can disappear into a world of relaxation and absolute comfort. With golf and tennis facilities available, there is always outdoor fun to be had. And so that parents can have fun too, they also have a day care facility open during the day.
The food and atmosphere I experienced at the Sheraton Fiji’s beachside was excellent and very romantic although the hotel environs are on the sterile side. (It's also huge and sprawling.) I dined twice at the Blue Vonu Restaurant, which served me up a wonderful yellow fin tuna and a fish curry. Both were among the best meals I had on that trip. The Sheraton Fiji was on the Condé Nast Gold List in 2004 and Travel + Leisure's 500 world's greatest hotels in 2003. Demographics: About 90% of the visitors are Australian
The downside—it’s far town if you want to dine out or run an errand. That said, most guests at this property don't really venture too far.
Rob's Picks--Restaurants
You can get your curry at Mirage Curry House. Curry, plus a variety of other dishes. Located on Main Street, Nadi (Opposite Mobil Service Station).
The B-Y (or Bi-Yuen) Restaurant is perhaps the best Chinese Restaurant in town. The restaurant is clean, modern and specialty is seafood served mostly Sezchuan style. Try the deep fried Opakapaka. Located on Nadi's Main Street on the west side of town. F$10-20.
Another good bet for Chinese food (seafood too) is Chopsticks or Santai, which has two locations---the heart of Nadi town and in Namada, near the airport. It's not fancy but the food is tasty.
Bounty Restaurant in the Martintar district of Nadi is a large air-conditioned eatery serving a range of Indian, Chinese and Continental Cuisine. The eatery
changed ownership several years ago and what was once a rather shabby place has been upgraded considerably. The most recent addition is a beergarden
with a seating capacity of 40 people. The Bounty is located about 100 meters east of Mercure Hotel. F$10-45. (Note that Bounty management also operates the Thai Restaurant next door.)
Chef's has Nadi's finest continental, located outside of a hotel. Decor is modern very chi-chi by Fiji standards--there is ample tile and pastel colors. The dining area is large and a fancy well stocked bar is on the premises. Food is reportedly very good. Chef's is located at the end of Sagayam Road, just off main street in downtown Nadi. F$20-50.
The Corner Restaurant in downtown Nadi is owned and operated by same people that own Chef's. Long and narrow it is configured like a classic American diner complete with and a cafeteria counter and booths that line the walls. Good cheap food can be had here including chop suey, Thai curry, fried rice, steak, sandwiches, hot dogs, pastries, shakes, and other items. Their homemade ice cream is superb. F$6-16 range.
Perhaps the best eatery in the Nadi area is Ports O'Call, Sheraton Fiji Resort's 5 star restaurant which features 1930's ocean liner decor. It offers food from major ports in the Pacific. Dinner only. $F50+
Nightlife
It's generally pretty quiet round Nadi town but there are a few local nightclubs in town, which can be entertaining but full of drunks. The best local place is Eds, a nightclub in the Martintar area midway between Nadi Town and the airport. The best place to meet locals and lonely flight attendants are the hotels such as the Tanoa, Mocambo for weekend dances.
Other Things to do:
Shopping: Get your souvenirs in Nadi. Jack's in downtown Nadi is a good place to start. They have a good quality stuff ranging from handicrafts to clothing. It's more like a department store. Sogos, across the street and down the road from Jack's has good quality clothing for men and women. Check out their Tabu Soro sports wear. Be sure and see the public market in town. Oh, yeah the Post Office has a great array of postcards sand stamps for philatelists. (Go here for a primer on shopping in Fiji).
Go to the Beach: Wailioaloa Beach---This 1/2 mile stretch of brown beach (which is not composed particularly beautiful sand) is the best beach in the Nadi area. On its north end is Travellers Beach Resort and to the south is Club Fiji . The beach is popular with local families that swim there (adults swim usually fully clothed) or beer drinkers, particularly on the weekends. At Club Fiji or Travellers one can buy a beer a meal and/or use the hotel facilities.
Swimming: is not particularly good. The waves churn the water near the shore brown. If you are going to swim at all, you're better off on the north end. The south end has a preponderance of mud flats, especially at low tide. However, the Club Fiji is a nicer venue. There is a pool, better restaurant, landscaped gardens, deck chairs, Mexican style palapas and water sports facilities.
Various Sights:
Nausori Highlands Rd
The turn-off to the Nausori Highlands is not too difficult to find. The access road is called the 'Nadi Back Rd' and it branches off the Queens Rd about three km south of Nadi Airport in an area called Nawaka, adjacent to a school playing field. It can also be accessed on the southern edge of Nadi town. It's a bit more difficult to find from the Nadi end but it can be done. Before leaving, it's good idea to contact the Public Works Department, the police or the Forestry Department to get a report on the current road conditions in the mountains.
To get to the highlands road, take the Queens Rd as far as Nawaka and turn inland; or from Nadi go east from Nadi's main street. If uncertain, ask a police officer - chances are other people will shrug their heads. Allow a day for this trip and take a picnic lunch. The road will be rough, but the scenery will be fantastic and well worth the drive.
There are several options for traveling the highlands road, depending on how adventurous you are. You can go as far as the major junction at Bukuya and then go on to Ba in the north and connect with Kings Rd. This is a long and tortuous route (about a three-hour drive) ideally suited for a 4WD. The highlight is passing through Navala village (see above photo), deep in the mountains. The bures in this settlement are almost exclusively traditional thatched-roof homes, which are becoming a rarity in Fiji. To see this magnificent village perched on the side of a river valley is worth the trip. The village does, by the way, take in visitors for a set daily fee. There are also fees for photographing the village. You can also reach Navala via a 1-1/2-hour bus ride from Ba three times daily.
The second option is to take the highlands road to its eastern extremity at Bukuya village and continue south 60 km along the Sigatoka Valley and eventually to Sigatoka town. The condition of the road is apt to be much better on this route. Make sure you stop at Nakabuta village along the Sigatoka Valley road, to purchase pottery. This is also a lovely route, but at least a three-hour drive. 
A third option is to go as far as you feel comfortable, eat your picnic lunch and head back to Nadi. The scenery along the way begins with rolling hills studded with cane. About 15 to 20 km inland you get into mountains, which tower over deep cleft valleys. Much of the land has been planted with Caribbean pine, which is already yielding valuable building material and, in the form of wood chips (visible in an immense pile at Lautoka Wharf), is also a major export product. Deeper into the interior the landscape becomes more rugged, precipitous and wet.
The inhabitants of the occasional villages are poor, eking out a living from their dalo and cassava patches. It is not unusual to see them walking along the road, bush knives at their sides, on their way to the family teitei (vegetable patch) or perhaps leading a pair of oxen. Some residents of the area, mounted on horses, hunt wild pigs using only bush knives and dogs. After school, children will be making the often long trek back to their homes. Perhaps you will see them toting their books, or village women with prawn nets heading for a stream.
Wailoaloa & Newtown Beaches
These are great places to jog or have a picnic if you're staying near the Dominion International Hotel, the Nadi Bay Motel, Traveller's Beach Resort, Horizon Beach Resort or the Newtown Beach Motel. From the airport head south about five km and turn right at Wailoaloa Rd, which is about 100 meters past the Dominion. Continue past the Nadi Bay Hotel about three km and follow the road straight to the beach. A vast reach of sand stretches to your left and your right. If you continue to the right a few km (down the beach) you will arrive at Newtown Beach where Traveller's, Horizon and Newtown beach accommodation is located. If you don't want to walk to Newtown from Wailoaloa Beach, turn right from Nadi Bay Rd onto Enamanu Rd and follow it to the end. The public access at Newtown Beach stretches northwards from the Turtle Island Airways 'terminal'.
Garden of the Sleeping Giant
This garden, which contains a collection of 30 to 40 varieties of Asian orchids and cattleya hybrids, is not just for horticulture enthusiasts. It's a combined commercial nursery and fantasy garden at the foot of the Sabeto Mountains, in the shadow of the ridge known as the 'Sleeping Giant'. The garden was once the private collection of US actor Raymond (Perry Mason) Burr. Burr has gone into partnership with another enterprising American and opened his garden to the public.
The highlight of the garden tour however, is not just the orchids. Of equal interest is a meandering stroll on a canopy-covered boardwalk through gorgeous landscaped grounds, across lily ponds up to the edge of a densely vegetated jungle. The turn-off to the garden is about five km from Nadi Airport, on your right as you head towards Lautoka. Take this side road for about two km. You could take a bus and hoof it from the main road, but it's naturally easier if you have a rental car. Admission is charged.
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Guns of Lomolomo
Past Nadi Airport the rugged hills of the Sabeto Mountains end almost at the foot of Queens Rd. At this juncture (about 8-1/2 km from the airport) watch for a set of railway tracks and turn right onto the dirt road. There is a school building about 400 meters up the lane on the left. You have to go through private property to get to the gun site so be polite when doing so. It might be better taking the track to the left of the school rather than the one on the right, which will lead you to the base of the bluff and is a tougher climb to the top of hill. Unlike the battery at Momi Bay, this site has not been taken over by the National Trust and thus has been left in the state in which it was abandoned after the war. The view from the top of the gun emplacement is outstanding. For those traveling by bus, the Lomolomo site is easier to reach than Momi Bay. Take a Lautoka or Viseisei bus from Nadi and ask the driver to let you off at the school.
Viseisei
Around the bend from Lomolomo and on your left is Viseisei, 9-1/2 km from the airport. Legend has it that this village is the oldest settlement in the country. Fijians say their ancestors first came to Fiji in great ocean-going canoes and landed at nearby Vuda Point. Speed humps have recently been installed in the vicinity of the village to ensure that passing cars move very slowly. This came about after a villager was run over by a speeding vehicle. This also should remind motorists that they should take care when 
driving in Fiji - pedestrians are not as wary of cars as they should be and can put themselves in dangerous situations.
There is a crafts center at the Nadi side of the village. You can stop there and ask if someone can take you to see the centennial (1835-1935) monument marking the arrival of the missionaries. Opposite the monument is the bure of the chief or tui vuda. In the middle of the village is a large Methodist church with a monument commemorating the arrival of the missionaries. Usually a small tip to the person who has shown you around the village is proper. Incidentally, after having visited this village you'll be in good company. Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Margaret and Prince Charles have also visited Viseisei. The huge, brand-new looking bure to the left of the road belonged to Dr Timoci Bavadra, the late, deposed prime minister of Fiji.
Vuda Point
The turn-off to Vuda Point and the Anchorage Beach Resort is on the left near the top of the first steep hill along the Queens Rd. About three km down, you pass several large oil storage tanks and then the road becomes very sandy. The beach is a short walk away (through a cane field between two freshwater ponds). This is traditionally where the first Melanesians landed. There is not much to see, but the point is a popular picnic spot for families in the area. Vuda Point is about 12-1/2 km from Nadi Airport.
One of the newer developments in the area of interest to sailors is the Vuda Point Marina, which has a small chandlery, fuel dock, a coffee shop, Internet access and a grocery store. Food and drink can be had at the Vuda Yacht Club, whose thatched building is a leisurely spot to watch the boats pass through the marina entrance. To quote
one happy yachite, "Local hotels also offer "yachtie specials" for dinner; First Landing Resort is next door and you can also get a pass to use their swimming pool; the Anchorage will collect you and deliver you back to the marina free of charge." All of these spots offer great venues to enjoy the sunset while sipping cold Fiji Bitter. Pacific Marine Services carries out boat repairs and maintenance and provides security for unattended boats. Image courtesy of www.yachthelp.com
Go Diving: The local dive operators (the best being Aqua-Trek) will arrange day dive trips to the nearby Mamanuca islands.
Visit the Mamanuca Islands: There are a myriad of day trips to the Mamanuca Group. You can either fly or take a boat. For day trips talk to Margaret Travel at the airport. She'll listen to what you want and book you on a tour.Tel 721988/722558/921992/921988 or margarettrvl@connect.com.fj .
LAUTOKA
Lautoka is 24 km north of Nadi Airport. With a population of around 31,000, it is Fiji's second-largest city and its second most important port. From here most of the vessels sail not only for foreign ports but to the outer islands and the resort areas. Lautoka is also a quintessential sugar town, with reputedly one of the largest sugar mills in the southern hemisphere. Although tourism is important to the region, sugar is still king here and the sugar industry is the largest single employer in the district. 
Tradition has it that within the bounds of today's Lautoka city limits there lived two tribes. One day a fight broke out between the tribes' chiefs at a spot known today as Farquahr's Point. As one chief speared the other he screamed Lau-toka, which means 'spear hit' or 'hit to win'. Thus Lautoka acquired a name.
The first sighting of the area was on the dawn of 7 May 1789 when Captain Bligh of HMS Bounty sailed by in his launch with loyal crew members - those who had been tossed out as a result of the famous mutiny. Bligh made rough charts of the shores of Lautoka and sketched the mountains in the background.
At the end of the last century the Colonial Sugar Refining Company (CSR) decided to build a mill in Lautoka. Indian indentured laborers and Solomon Island workers were brought in to do the construction and in 1899 the work began. The mill began crushing in 1903 and still operates today. 
Lautoka was proclaimed a city on 25 February 1977 and today is the headquarters for important government and statutory bodies such as the Fiji Electrical Authority, the Fiji Pine Commission and the National Marketing Authority. It is the administrative capital of the Western Division, which contains more than 50% of the nation's population. (Postcard at left depicts Lautoka in more innocent times.)
Sugar Mill
Queens Rd into Lautoka is lined with royal palms, and railway tracks from the ubiquitous sugar train run adjacent to the highway towards the huge sugar mill looming in the distance. The business of Lautoka is and always was centered around sugar. Tours of the mill are popular during harvest time. For tour information contact the Fiji Sugar Corporation. The best time of the year to visit is in December during 'crushing season'.
Saweni Beach
Saweni, about six km north of Lautoka and two km off the main road, is the largest beach near town and has shade trees. Though a bit shabby and littered compared to an archetypically beautiful beach like Natadola down the coast, it is very popular with the locals, especially for family picnics and beer-drinking bashes. To get there take the Saweni Beach turn-off or the Saweni bus which goes directly to the beach. If you can't get the exact bus, any local bus going north from Lautoka will drop you off on the main road near the turn-off.
Market 
Like all Fijian communities, Lautoka has a sizeable market (at right) selling produce, yaqona and trinkets, but nothing terribly different from any of the others. Of interest, however, is that this is the largest market in Fiji, renovated in 1992. Some of the artifact sellers are also artisans who make high-quality products (crochet work, for example) that you can watch being made and later purchase.
Vinaka to photography pro Paddy Ryan for shots of Indian Temple (top of page) and Navala Village scene.
