Suva, Nausori & Pacific Harbour
Suva can lay certain claim to being the largest and perhaps the most livable city in the South Pacific outside New Zealand or Australia. The capital of 
Fiji since 1883, it is set on 15 sq km of peninsula adjacent to one of the finest naturally protected harbors in the South Seas. It is home for about 100,000 people, with another 60,000 living in the fast-developing corridor along the 25-km stretch from the city limits to the airport at Nausori to the northeast. (Map courtesy of Fiji Government).
Perhaps the biggest drawback to the town is its weather, which is wet and often muggy. The nicest way to describe Suva is as a changeable town that gleams in the sunlight and turns metallic grey in the rain. And rain is not an uncommon occurrence in the capital of Fiji. Bring your umbrella.
Suva is a steamy cauldron of Fijians, Indians, Chinese, Tongans, Samoans, Rotumans, Solomon Islanders, Micronesians, Europeans and `fruit salad' as they are locally called -- those of mixed race. In and around 
Suva there are a variety of Christian churches, Hindu and Sikh temples, Muslim mosques and even an abandoned Jewish cemetery. Fiji's capital, which can justifiably be called the hub of the South Pacific, has a modern array of communications facilities and has attracted a host of international bureaus and regional institutions such as USP, the University of the South Pacific. Suva has always been the headquarters for culture and the arts. A new newsletter called kulcha vulcha lists the city's arts, culture and leisure events.
Rob's Favorite Suva Accommodations:
Backpackers should consider Colonial Lodge at 19 Anand Street which is a newly renovated 70 year old bungalow located in a very quiet cul-de-sac street in the heart of Suva City. The bus station is just a three minute walk from the Lodge. It's run by Suzie Yee Show, whose dad Emosi ran Leleuvia Island Resort and Mary's Holiday Lodge in Levuka for many. Suzie grew up with the business and she knows a thing or two about hospitality.
Raintree Lodge, located 11 km from downtown Suva at the entrance of Colo-i-Suva Forest Park, has something for everyone starting with dorms for backpackers at around F$F20 and individual rooms for F$50 (with shared bath). They also have comparatively luxurious bungalows with TV, fridge and bath that go for F$110. There’s also a restaurant on the premises. The entire complex overlooks a lake that was once a rock quarry. In addition to 
the cool environs, the Lodge is one of the most eco-friendly resorts in the islands. For example buildings are constructed from local Fiji pine (a relatively renewable resource) and water on the property is treated on-site and reused. The only caveat is it’s distance from town. (www.raintreelodge.com)
I've heard very good things about Nannete’s Homestay, 56 Extension St., a side street tucked away in the rear of the infamous CWM Hospital. It's a 
two-story white house and is one of the few B&Bs in town. On the top floor is a lounge area, a kitchen, and four rooms, each with their own bath room. One even has a balcony. The bottom floor has three apartments, two of which have two bedrooms. All three are self contained with well appointed kitchens. Rates begin at F$89 for a room and F$125 for an apartment which includes breakfast.. (www.nanettes.com.fj).
If you’re in need of a good midrange accommodation consider Tanoa 
Plaza Hotel (a block from downtown on Gordon St.) which has the distinction of being the tallest hotel in Fiji. Formerly the Berjaya Hotel it was renovated in 2003 and is targeted at the business traveler. All the rooms overlook the harbor and the most luxurious units are the executive suites on the top floor. There is a first floor restaurant that offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner. There's also a pool but it's rather small. If you really want a good swim better to check out the municipal pool a few blocks away on Victoria Parade. Prices start at around F$180. (www.tanoahotels.com).
A less expensive option is Motel 6, a modern orange colored edifice located on Walu St. just off Waimanu Rd. It’s close enough to be in walking distance from downtown and with prices starting at around F$60 (including fridge, aircon and TV, it’s a bargain. (www.tanoahotels.com/tanoa_plaza/index.cfm)
Holiday Inn, with 130 rooms, targets mostly business travelers is clearly the best upmarket property in Suva. Located on the ocean, on Victoria Parade, it’s with in easy walking distance of downtown Suva. It’s been completely renovated and will soon be set up for broadband Internet service in each room. I particularly like the expansive lounge which makes a nice venue for cocktails and outdoor area along side their where you can watch the sun set. Staff is very attentive. Prices start at F$150 per night. The superior rooms for F$320 are huge and offer every amenity such as TV, fridge, deck, and aircon that can be tweaked to your comfort level. Another thing I really like about the Holiday Inn is its proximity to Thurston Gardens and the Fiji Museum. They are literally across the street. Both offer a wonderful respite from the hustle and bustle of Suva. (www.pacific-resorts.com/fiji/holiday-inn-suva/)
Another good high end property is JJ’s on the Park boutique hotel (22 rooms) located in what was the YWCA Bldg off Ratu Sukuna Park. Catering to businessmen, its location is within walking distance of anywhere downtown making it handy for banking, government ministries, etc. Each room could lay claim to being a business center with phone, fax, and Internet connection. Views of the harbor from all rooms and balconies are spectacular. Prices start at F$250. There's a nice cozy feel to the place.
Toberua Island Resort is actually off the coast, near Suva and was one of the first boutique properties in Fiji. There are 15 bures on this 4 acre island. Harper's Hideaway Report in past years rated it as one of the top small island resorts in the world. The cuisine specialties include fresh seafood and continental dishes supplemented by locally grown tropical fruits and organic vegetables from their own gardens. There is a full bar service with a wide selection of Australian, New Zealand and California wines. There is decent snorkeling right off the beach and a short boat ride will bring you to a large main reef with a varied scope of marine life. Diving is also available in the Toberua Passage nearby. Prices start at F$ $390 /F$440 (single double). Full Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner F$110.00 p/p per day and two meals are F$92.50 p/p per day. A downside to consider is that the weather at Toberua often matches that of Suva - rainy and humid. (www.toberua.com).
Where to hang out
Suva has become a bit of a cafe society. Over the last few years places such as the Republic of Cappuccino aka The "ROC" (rhymes with sock) features scones, muffins and of course good java. It's a hip and fun place to hang. You can find it on Victoria Parade a block or two down from the Holiday Inn. Every third
sunday of the month the ROC has special market where you'll find a variety of bargain items that include homeware, books, bric-a -brac, paintings, pottery,
jewellery, carvings, cakes, jams, exotic Indian, Chinese and other Asian food. Roberta Nawaqatabu, a Suva native, told me that the monthly ROC market is a looked forward to events both for locals and expats. (Note that there is a second Republic of Capuccino with a bank of Internet ready computers at its offices near the old Fiji Visitors Bureau building on Thomson St.)
The newest edition to cafe society is Le Cafe de l'Alliance Francaise, which is run by the organization of the same name. Located on 14 McGregor Rd., it features sandwiches, burgers, deserts and coffee. It's popular with students and offers books, magazines, DVDs and French television.
Another Suva cafe to check out is Head Works, a coffee house located on the second floor of 1 Thomson St. opposite the Suva Central Building. I liken it to being in the eye of the hurricane. It overlooks Triangle Park in the heart of Suva and its outdoor terrace makes for a great place to people watch.
If you want to combine eating with packet switching check out the Kahawa Cafe on Ellery Street across from the Sacred Heart Cathedral.
Nightlife
Nightlife in Suva is famous throughout the South Pacific for its nightlife. Clubs range from seedy dives to posh discos. Cubbing is a popular recreation for urban, single Fijians and is socially quite acceptable - many charitable and social organizations use the clubs as places to hold fund-raising dances.
Golden Dragon is also one of the most popular nightclubs in Suva, more so with locals than the tourists. It's frequented a great deal by University of South Pacific students. There is no shortage of singles seeking companions. It's on Victoria Parade, opposite the Fiji Development Bank. Admission is charged.
Birdland is a hip, subterranean lair on Carnavon Street in downtown Suva. Operated by a jazz fanatic and adorned with posters of Miles and Bird, they have live music on the weekends but mostly rock. The only jazz you'll hear will be played on tapes and CDs. Nonetheless, this smoke-filled dive is the next best thing to the Village for miles around. Admission on weekends.
If there is one place that can be classified as the scene in town is Trapps on Victoria Parade. Loud, smoky and more crowded than the Tokyo subway, it's the bar to be seen in Suva. Great place for singles seeking companionship.
Where to Get Online
You can also check out Alpha Computers near Cumming Street at Honson Arcade, the Government run Fiji Telecom, Cyber Station on Usher St. and Networking Solutions Shop 7, Harbour Terminal.
Where to eat
For a really inexpensive place to find bread and other baked goods check out the Hot Bread Kitchen. (There are many scattered around Suva).
Govinda Vegetarian Restaurant on 93 Cumming St. offers tasty and healthy food in the $7.50 – $10 range.
Fong Lee Seafood Restaurant (293 Victoria Parade) is also a cut above. Popular with the embassy crowd and many expats, it’s worth a checking out.
The Old Mill Cottage Cafe Restaurant on Carnarvon St. is a stone's throw from the US Embassy. It has very fine food, clean surroundings and is among the best of the lunchtime eateries. The converted home with bench seating is very popular with government office workers because of its proximity to the Fijian government buildings. Innovative cookery includes Chinese dishes, curries and Fijian delicacies like taro and palusami (baked taro leaves with corned beef) cooked in lolo (coconut milk), and kuita (young octopus) in miti (light coconut milk dressing). The prices range from F$8 to F$12.
JJ’s on the Park (YWCA Bldg off Ratu Sukuna Park) is one of the newer eateries in town. The location is within walking distance of anywhere downtown and food includes reasonably priced appetizers such as sashimi or fried calamari in the F$8 – 15 range to main courses such as fish or chicken for around F$25. JJ’s has gotten raves from both locals and visitors.
Hare Krishna Restaurant on Pratt St is run by adherents of the Hare Krishna sect and offers the best vegetarian food in town. The cafe has a pleasant air-con dining area upstairs that fills up for lunch, so get there early. Prices range from about F$10 to F$12 for a terrific all-you-can-eat meal. The restaurant also has the best ice cream in town with flavors selection (including fig, almond, ginger and nutmeg, as well as the regulars). There is another branch on Cumming St, in case you need an ice cream, roti or Indian sweet while you're on that side of town.
A fixture of Nadi for many years, Chef’s now has a sister restaurant in Suva the Corner of Thomson and Pier Streets. Chef’s (like it’s twin in Nadi) is actually two restaurants, Chef’s the Corner, an inexpensive café style eatery (most items are under $10) that serves snack food and curries and a more expensive upstairs version called Chef’s the Restaurant, which serves meals in the $20-40 range
Shopping: Behind the post office, facing the sea on Stinson Parade, is the Handicraft Centre. Do not confuse this with the government crafts center in Ratu Sukuna House on Carnarvon St. Unlike the municipal market which caters to locals, the handicraft market is almost exclusively for visitors. The upshot is that you will be touted continuously. 
The prices can be cheaper here than at the souvenir shops, but prepare to bargain hard. Items sold are the usual tourist fare: cannibal forks, tanoa (yaqona bowls), carvings, masi cloth, gatu (Tongan-style bark cloth), seashells and necklaces. The market is particularly active on days when ships are in port. Jack's (off of Victoria Parade on 19 Pier St, is probably the most popular shopping spot for visitors. They have jewelry, clothing, and carvings but I usually like to take home their coconut soap for around $F22.
The Suva Market, where you will 
find the most attractive array of fresh 
fruits and vegetables in the world, is within close proximity. And you will also find the Village 6 Cinemas, the Suva Handicraft markets, international restaurants and pubs, Suva Museum, Suva Olympic Swimming Pool, Suva Flea market and other great bargain shopping in downtown Suva.
Sogos on Cumming St, has good quality clothing for men and women at reasonable prices. There are a number of other stores and even locally manufactured surf clothing but I wasn't too impressed. Fiji Bitter T shirts are still a great gift.
Sightseeing
Go to the Beach: There is a beach in town but it doesn't amount to much. Your best bet for a decent beach is to head down to Pacific Harbour, which is about 20 minutes by car or bus out of town.
Walking Tour: Suva is a walker's town; most of it can be seen in one day if you have a sturdy pair of shoes and a healthy constitution. You need not be an Olympic athlete to take a walking tour, but the heat - especially for those not used to it - can make a stroll around Suva seem arduous. Some of the things to see include:
Victoria Parade, extending roughly from the post office to Thurston Gardens, is the `main drag' and the heart of Suva. On it or nearby are most of the finest shops, the airline ticket offices, banks, travel agencies, the best hotel in town (Holiday Inn), the library, town hall, telegraph office, two of the most popular nightclubs and the classic Grand Pacific Hotel which is undergoing extensive renovation.
If you want to catch a movie check out the Village Six, a multi-plex theater with the latest Hollywood and Bollywood releases. It's only F $6 per movie and half price for kids. Fully air conditioned state of the art theaters equivalent to any overseas standard cinemas.
At the Municipal Market the Polynesian, Chinese, Indian and Fijian vendors hawk fish, meat, vegetables, fruit, coconut oil and nearly everything else that a Fijian household might need. Some sections (upstairs) deal entirely with kava root (both whole and ground). Other merchants sell Indian spices exclusively, display freshly caught shellfish, sell tomatoes or offer bundles of dalo (taro root). A section of new kiosks toward the bus station is the place to try `Indian sweets', many of which are not sweet at all, but rather are highly spiced and tasty snacks. There is also a `yaqona saloon' outdoors at the wharf end of the market dedicated solely to yaqona tipplers. As you walk by, someone may call over, urging you to have a bowl. Should you take them up on it, for a dollar buy a round for the house, which is the customary reciprocal thing to do.
Cumming St. is known for its fine restaurants and duty-free shops. It is crowded and narrow, reminiscent of a Paris or London back street.
The Triangle, near the beginning of Victoria Parade, is what Albert Schutz in his fine booklet Suva - A History & Guide calls 'the true centre of Suva'. A century ago it was a small lagoon fed by a creek coming down Pratt St; today it is a miniature park usually occupied by several locals sitting on a bench at the foot of an ivi tree. At the center of this triangular park is a concrete historical marker with four inscriptions. The landmark has a special distinction in that three of the four inscriptions set aside for posterity are incorrect:
Suva Proclaimed Capital in 1882. This is not quite true. The home government actually approved the move from Levuka to Suva in 1877 and the action was announced by the London Times in August of that year. The government's official move from Levuka was made in 1882.
Cross and Cargill First Missionaries arrived 14 October 1835. Not quite; according to their diaries, the correct date was 12 October. Public Land Sales on this spot 1880. Wrong location. Apparently the land sales did occur underneath an ivi tree but not this one. In reality the sales were a bit further down the road, near the present-day locale of the Morris Hedstrom & Co store.
British Crown Colony 10th October 1874. They got this one right.
On Victoria Parade, the Old Town Hall, constructed just after the turn of the century, is one of the finest examples of Victorian architecture. Not only did it serve the duties of government, it was also a center for the performing arts and a host to concerts, vaudeville acts and amateur shows.
Behind the Town Hall is a very fine Olympic pool open to the public. Admission is 50 cents to the pool and 20 cents to the dressing room. From April to September opening hours are 10 am to 6 pm weekdays, 8 am to 6 pm Saturdays; and from October to March, 9 am to 7 pm on weekdays, 6 am to 7 pm Saturdays. There is also a reasonably clean public toilet here.
If you are addicted to a health club back home, you may want to check out the facilities at Olympic Gym (tel 304 970) at 14 Carnovan St. The gym is in a large Quonset hut-shaped building, not far from the municipal pool. The equipment is mostly weight-lifting gear, as well as some older, nautilus-style equipment. There is a small fee to use the facilities.
Next to the town hall is the Suva City Library, built in 1909. It is a noteworthy landmark in that the money for constructing the edifice (#1000) was donated by the US steel magnate, Andrew Carnegie. Carnegie provided similar donations to other libraries around the world. I have found the librarians a very friendly bunch and the long-term visitor might find it worthwhile to take out a library card. Note that some of the best books are in the Pacific Collection, inside the charge desk, and available on request. (Long-term visitors should also check into the University of the South Pacific Library on the USP campus, which has the best books in the country.)
Just down the street, Albert Park was part of the original land grant given by the Polynesia Company to the government as an inducement to move the capital to Suva. Named after the royal consort to Queen Victoria, it is and always has been a general recreational park with a cricket ground and tennis courts.
Across from the park, the shoreline adjacent to the Grand Pacific Hotel (or GPH as it is called by locals) was once a landing spot for commoners from the nearby village. It was called Vu-ni-Vesi after a group of vesi trees that grew there. The first hotel built on this spot, the Hotel Suva, was little more than a shack but the GPH, which opened in 1914, was to set the standard for the entire Pacific. It has been going under renovation for years in fits and starts. Finally with the economy booming and real estate very hot, it appears the latest incarnation will finally emerge.
About 100 meters down from the library is an area called 'Naiqaqi', which translates as 'the crusher'. This vicinity, which is now occupied by the Native Land Trust Board (NLTB) building and the Fiji Broadcasting Commission building, was once the site of Fiji's first sugar mill, built in 1873. Sugar grows quite well in Fiji but not in the Suva area, where the topsoil is thin and 'the crusher' was never a successful business venture.
The only nearby remnant of this exercise in futility is a gear 1-1/2 meters in diameter, on display near the corner of Carnarvon and Loftus Sts.
The massive Government Buildings site is one of the most prominent in Suva, but prior to 1935 the area was a swampy creek bed. Known as part of the greater Naiqaqi district, the area mostly contained tumbledown shacks and many of the neighborhood's women plied the world's oldest trade. The government buildings may be of more than passing interest to the visitor. Here the Department of Lands & Survey sells excellent topographic maps and city plans to the public. In the new wing, the Department of Information provides pamphlets such as Fiji Today, which offers an overview of the country, statistics and general background information. Nearby, in a barrack-like annex, is the office of the Fiji Dictionary Project. An impressive new parliament building, offering more space needed by the expanded post-coup government, was opened in 1992 on Ratu Sukuna Rd.
Thurston Gardens on Victoria Parade contain a large collection of flora from throughout the South Pacific. Named after the amateur botanist and founder, Sir John Bates Thurston, the present site was opened in 1913. The gardens are well kept and almost always uncrowded. Within the grounds you'll find the Fiji Museum.
The Fiji Museum (inside Thurston Gardens) has the finest collection of Fijian relics in the world. Founded in 1904, the original site of the Fiji Museum (tel 315 944) was in the old town hall. After being moved to several locations, the present building was constructed on the grounds of Thurston Gardens in 1954. Despite the multitude of artifacts that were taken from Fiji by missionaries and sailors, the museum has the finest collection of Fijian relics in the world.
Among the exhibits are collections of war clubs, ivory necklaces, cannibal 
forks, spears, bowls, pottery, tools, cooking utensils, combs and a replica of a huge drua - an ancient, double-hulled canoe. One of the war clubs, which was actually used in battle, has several notches chiseled in it, each representing an enemy slain. The rear of the museum is dedicated to the arrival of European and US sailing vessels, highlighting the bêche-de-mer, whaling and sandalwood eras. There is also an exhibit illustrating the saga of the Indian indenture period and the infamous blackbirding trade that brought Micronesians and Melanesians to Fiji. In addition, you'll see actual relics from the famous Bounty. There is a superb collection of old masi (tapa bark cloth) in an air-con room.
Aside from collecting and chronicling Fijian artifacts, the museum is also a research and educational institution. The staff engage in archaeological research, the preservation of Fiji's oral tradition and publication of material on language and culture. Despite the museum's good works, lack of space to showcase the exhibits and chronic 
lack of funding have always been problems. The museum is open weekdays from 8.30 am to 4.30 pm, Saturday from 9 am to 4.30 pm and is closed Sunday. There is an admission charge. There is often a temporary exhibit of some kind going on, and these are usually excellent. Anyone visiting Suva should not miss the museum.
History of Suva
Early Suva Before Suva became the center of European activity in Fiji, it was a typical village, embroiled in the political squabbles and intrigues of the day which often resulted in attacks by rival tribes. The European settlement of this waterfront community was prompted by a series of events that began during a celebration of America's independence day on 4 July 1848. The first was a fire in a house belonging to entrepreneur John Brown Williams,
US commercial agent in Fiji. While the fire burned, many of Williams' possessions were 'liberated' from the burning structure by the villagers, who saw no reason to give them back. Consul Williams, as he was called, took full advantage of the situation and inflated his 1848 loss of goods looted by the Fijians from approximately £200 (as some have estimated) to nearly £10,000 at the time of his death.
The responsibility for these actions was placed upon Chief Cakobau, who at the time was the self-styled 'Tui Viti' or King of Fiji. Having failed to eliminate the debt by an attempt to cede Fiji to Britain (which took some nerve because Chief Cakobau really didn't have dominion over the entire country), he quickly accepted the offer of the newly formed Polynesia 
Company to pay the amount. The agreement was that the Polynesia Company would pay back the money in exchange for 200,000 acres of land and trading and banking rights in Fiji. About 23,000 acres of the total were in the Suva area. The price worked out to about a shilling an acre - not a bad deal even in those days. (Photo at right depicts mid 20th Century Suva when colonial architecture was still evident.)
Polynesia Company Settlement
After acquisition by the Polynesia Company, a boatload of Australian settlers arrived in Suva in 1870 to plant cotton and later sugar cane. Early settlers camped on the beach until the land, densely covered with vegetation, was cleared to build their Fijian-style huts. One settler described the ordeal:
Our women folk bore themselves bravely, and lived up to the traditions of our race, but it was dreadfully trying to them and the children. They were devoured by mosquitoes, terrified by the hordes of fierce land crabs and drenched with rain when the fine weather broke up. Most of us had come totally unequipped with mosquito curtains, and I shall never forget how those fell insects punished us...I tried everything I could to dodge the little beasts.
Ironically, the efforts that went into cultivation were in vain because the land itself was not suited to the crops. The agricultural venture in Suva failed and the planters were ruined. However miserable things were for the fledgeling community, land speculators knew that if Suva could be made the new capital, business could be coaxed there, real estate values would soar, and they would be rich.
The old capital, Levuka, which had long been the metropolis of the Pacific, was a brawling, prosperous town, but its days as a capital were numbered. Although it was a garden spot, the old capital was hemmed in by 600-metre cliffs which left no room to expand. It became apparent that a new capital was needed.
In the meantime, land in Suva was purchased by two major parties who did their best to promote the area as an ideal spot for a new capital by giving the government ample real estate to build their offices. Thus, in spite of the wet climate, the local government had incentives to establish the new capital in Suva, and in 1882 they did just that.
The New Capital The plan of modern Suva is credited to Colonel F E Pratt of the Royal Engineers, appointed in 1875 as surveyor-general and director of works; and to his assistants W Stephens and Colonel R W Stewart. Despite well-intentioned plans for the capital, Suva's early days saw only gradual improvement - roads were poor, water supply was tenuous at best and not all construction adhered to the city plan. Gradually these deficiencies gave way as the town grew. A few years past the turn of the century Suva was actually a tourist attraction in its own right. The editor of The Commercial Directory & Tourists' Guide to the South Pacific Islands observed:
Why Fiji is visited by such a small number of tourists is a puzzle to the writer, for there is not a more interesting or enjoyable trip on the globe. The climate is particularly healthy, and the white settlers being mostly from Australia, vie with each other in extending hospitality to visitors, while the natives, particularly those who live away from the large centres of European population, always extend a cordial welcome to the turanga papalangi (white gentleman), or the marama papalangi (white lady). Suva is the capital of the colony, and situated on the shores of a fine reef-protected bay of the same name, whose opposite shore is backed by imposing looking ranges of verdure-clad mountains, rising peak after peak until an altitude of probably 1200 meters is attained - they look truly grand, particularly at sunset or during an approaching storm (a frequent occurrence), or better still when the storm has passed and the white clouds cover their feet, and the picturesque-looking peaks...stand boldly out against the dark-blue horizon, 'tis really a sight to be remembered.
Some things never change.
North of Suva
Nausori
Only 19 km north of Suva and 270 km from Nadi Airport, Nausori 
grew as a city around Fiji's second sugar mill (1881-1959), now the site of the Rewa Rice Mill. The golf course and some of the old colonial homes constructed for expatriates are about all that remain of Nausori's days as a sugar-mill town. (The post card at right from Dame Jane Resture's collection depicts pay in Nausori in 1906.)
The end of the sugar mill marked the final attempt at growing sugar on the eastern side of Viti Levu. Today Nausori is much like Ba, a working-class 
town and agricultural center. The airport, which serves Suva is in Nausori, a 20-minute drive from the capital. The most famous landmark in town is the Nausori Bridge, which everyone who lands at the Airport must cross to get to Suva. The bridge was immortalized in this 1979 postage stamp).
Near Nausori are three landings from which you can hire punts or 'water taxis' to explore the Rewa Delta, visit snorkeling areas or visit Toberua Resort. The landings are Nakelo, Wainibokasi and Bau. Buses leave frequently for these points from the bus station in Nausori.
Bau Island
Bau Landing is a few meters from tiny Bau Island, to this day the seat of traditional power among Fijians (see the History section in the Facts about 
the Country chapter). The island is not a place where visitors may casually drop in - it is in fact against the law to visit Bau without permission from someone who lives on the island or from the Ministry of Fijian Affairs. This applies to locals and visitors alike.
Bau has the oldest church in the country, a fascinating cemetery for chiefly families, and an impressive stone nearby that was once used to crush skulls in the days of cannibalism.
If you really want to visit the island, the best way to go about this is to try and befriend someone on the bus ride to Bau Landing in hopes that the person may offer to show you around. Make sure you take a large bundle of kava root (waka) with you and dress conservatively (this applies especially to women). At certain times all non-Bauans are forbidden on the island, so don't attempt to reach it without permission; and if by luck you get there, never walk around unescorted. Some tourists reportedly have tried this but it is a grave insult. Getting on the wrong side of a high Fijian
chief is akin to getting on the wrong side of the law. In many remote parts of Fiji the chief is still the one who lays down the law. Even the courts have ruled that a chief's word can in some cases take precedence over the law books.
Naililili Mission
Naililili, 272 km from Nadi Airport, is the largest church in Fiji. It was built at the turn of the century by Father Rougier, who later left the priesthood to become a trader in Tahiti. Apparently Father Rougier accidentally inherited a tidy sum from a down-and-out convict from New Caledonia who was in reality heir to a fortune. At that point he left organized religion to seek a more worldly life. To get to his church take the first left at the junction past the Nausori Bridge. Water taxis are available to cross the river to Naililili.
West of Suva
Pacific Harbour
Pacific Harbour has traditionally been a sleepy suburb of Suva a community largely made up of expats and well-heeled locals--a far cry from the steamy streets of Suva 45-minute (50 km) away. With the recent real estate and tourism boom, Pacific Harbour has seen a rebirth and gentrification of sorts. Perhaps the biggest transformation occurred when Pacific Harbour's Cultural Centre and Marketplace, was purchased in 2004 by an Australian couple Eric and Sarah Roberts. They renamed it "ArtsVillage" and proceeded to redevelop the faded icon into a shining new commercial complex with over 60 businesses. These include a bank, boutiques, handicraft stores, sporting goods outlets (including golf, surf and dive shops) a whole raft of eateries and an Internet Cafe. There are altogether around 60 entities and the owners say there will be 100 by the time construction is completed. Also
new in the Arts Village complex is Tsulu, a "luxury" backpacker beach bunkhouse and apartments. The Cultural Centre has also gotten a new lease on life. It's more than a Disneyland type faux Fijian Village. It actually provides visitors with a taste of the local culture such as traditional fire walking shows performed by natives of Beqa. (See above photo).
Pacific Harbour has several hotels including the boutique Lagoon Resort, the Centra Resort Pacific Harbour and Waikeli Homestay (both midrange properties), the budget Deuba Inn and brand new Tsulu.
The other major attraction in Pacific Harbour is a Championship course designed by Robert Trent Jones. Fairways and greens are well bunkered. As the brochure says, "there are a selection of holes of great character" including a par four with its green on an island, a par three with full carry over water and par fives and fours with St. Andrew type burns.
In short, Pacific Harbour has a lot of things going for it. The long strand of beach has always been a popular weekend picnic spot for locals makes for a pleasant natural setting. The recent investments in the Arts Village and other properties indicate a new confidence in the region. For visitors the main downside is that the weather is similar to Suva's, which may discourage people from spending a lot of time here.
Places to stay
The newest property is Tsulu, an upscale backpacker haunt that can accommodate 96 people at F$28 to F$36 a night per person. The 
accommodations are varied and include apartments, double rooms and bunk rooms (aka dorms)--the owners tell me no two rooms are the same and most are have air-con. Other amenities include a very creatively designed swimming Pool (with Fiji 's largest swim up bar), an 18m waterslide, 2 spas, and a stage that features regular performances of local bands. There's plenty to do in the neighborhood. You're literally on the doorstep of Beqa Lagoon, which is famous for soft corals and other dive attractions. There's also great surfing (Frigates Pass is not too far) and nearby rivers afford white water rafting and kayaking. There's also mountain biking, hiking, waterfalls and village visits. (www.tsulu.com)
Readers have also extolled the virtues of Waikeli Homestay, a B&B overlooking the Qaraniqio River located a short stroll from the beach. Waikeli is a huge home with only three guest rooms and amenities that include a 20 meter pool and a tennis court. Your hosts are Cakau and Murray Cockburn who are both attentive and reportedly are excellent cooks. Full breakfast is served on the terrace with views of the river or overlooking a nearby canal. Rooms sport air-con, overhead fan, small fridge, as well as niceties such as monogrammed bathrobes (!), straw hat, umbrellas, beach mat and beach bag. Rooms are serviced daily with a 
complimentary laundry service and a full body massage. Lunch and dinner is also available (at F$15 and F$25 respectively). Wines are available but your hosts don’t mind if you BYO. A traditional Fijian lovo can be prepared on request. Price is F$160 per night. (www.waikeli.com).
Where to Eat and Drink in Pacific Harbour
The Arts Village boasts a number of reasonably priced eateries-- the 'Treetops' which has been revamped and is now a lounge bar with views of Beqa; Oasis Bar and Restaurant; the Shack, an Americana style eatery cum Internet Café; and the 'Kaiviti' Restaurant and Wine Bar, serving up local food.
Thanks to Dame Jane Resture for the vintage travel poster as well as photos of Suva and Bau.
