Taveuni (pronounced Tah-vee-ew-nee), the garden island of Fiji, is rugged, wet, verdant and pristine. It lies only seven kilometers off the southeast coast of Vanua Levu and is 42 kilometers long and averages about 11 kilometers wide. Taveuni is a archetypically beautiful tropical island, thick with vegetation and resplendent with tropical flowers. It offers the visitor a rich natural history, in particular, a fine array of birdlife. Fortunately (unlike other island in the Fiji archipelago) the mongoose was never introduced to Taveuni and consequently many of the birds that have vanished on Viti Levu and Vanua Levu still thrive on the Garden Island. Once the home of fierce warriors, Taveuni residents still exude pride and confidence in their step. With a population of around 12,000 inhabitants, Taveuni is sparsely populated. Virtually all of whom live in traditional Fijian villages and are quite hospitable. Once known for its coconut plantations, Taveuni's attractions include world class diving. (Photo at left and below courtesy of Paddy Ryan.) According to Undercurrent, a prestigious dive magazine,    "Taveuni has great diving but it's terrible for beginners; there's high current velocity damn near daily. Bring a compass, and carry both day and night emergency surface signaling devices (tubes, strobes).... This is a good area for sea snakes, soft corals, stonefish, and clown fish.... In addition to underwater attractions the terrestrial displays are signficant--there aer water falls, and an array of rare, indigenous flora and fauna. Taveuni has a number of excellent low and mid-ranged accommodations. The island can be reached via air from Nadi or Suva or on a local ferryboat. The latest trends in Taveuni mirror those occurring elsewhere in Fiji: A real estate boomlet fueled by Americans, Germans and others purchasing choice freehold land on the island. An increasingly sophisticated tourist plant that features everything from F$25 backpacker hostels and excellent bungalows in the $US120-160 range to 5 Star US$900/per night boutique resorts. The newest property under construction is the eco-friendly Nakia Resort.  Former Hawaii residents Jim and Robin Kelley are constructing this self-sustaining resort 6 km from Taveuni’s airport. They intend it to be Fiji’s first hotel powered by alternative energy sources such as solar and wind power.  Slated for completion in June ’06, it will cater to families and will have 4 bures in the US$180-250 range (including meals).  Located on a bluff overlooking the sea, it reportedly has great views and it’s own artesian spring.  Nakia will provide guests with organically grown fruits and vegetables.  For more info contact them at jimandrobinfiji@hotmail.com Then there's Hollywood's interpretation of the island... To see that, check out Reel Paradise, a movie about the saga of American film maker maker John Pierson who in 2002 relocated his family (see photo at right) to Taveuni for a year to show free movies at the venerable Meridian Cinema near Waiyevo. This is the Fiji that the Fiji Visitors Bureau doesn't publicize.  I would definitely rent this flick (not so much to see the inner workings of the Pierson family) but to see a raw slice of Fijian life. I've always thought that just about everyone in Fiji is a living institution worthy of a bit part in a film and Reel Paradise captures it all--from the good hearted Fijian cook to the drunken, half wit "local European" landlord.  (Let's not forget the self-righteous priest worried about cultural contamination from the American interlopers). The warts and all are there for the world to see about the Pierson family and some facets of Fijian life.  However, it's by no means a negative film. There's plenty to like about the verite aspects of this film. Three cheers for no phony sentimentality about the "noble savage". There's plenty of dirty laundry aired but it's equally distributed among the Piersons and the Fijians. John and Janet Pierson are not to be confused with Ozzie and Harriet Nelson nor are their Fijian neighbors always perfect models of propreity. The director doesn't do anyone any special favors, he simply tells the story of a American family transplanted in the backwaters of Waiyevo. Nobody is perfect around here but despite the occasional crime and misdemeanor people are pretty damn civil and their their good qualities shine through. At the end of the film the Piersons' sit, cross-legged, Fiji-style at a good bye party given by the local village in their honor and drink kava. The couple proclaim what they've learned after being  in country for a year --that Fiji may be poor in material wealth but is incredibly rich in heart. Indeed, more heart than you're ever likely to find in Hollywood. If you click on the Reel Paradise link you'll be able to see a trailer of the film. Photo above is of director Steve James (on left) flanked by his subject, John Pierson. Photo at right is the inside of the Meridian Cinema. (Photos courtesy of photographer Amy C. Elliott and the Reel Paradise crew). Rob’s Favorite Taveuni Accommodations (If you're interested in making a reservation at any of the properties featured below, the "book here now" text links will take you to Fijiguide's travel partner, Exotic Escapes.)   The best backpacker haunt is Bibi’s Hideaway which has been a Taveuni institution for years.  It’s gone upmarket a bit with new bures that are several cuts above the funky. Located on expansive grounds (near a beach) it is loaded with fruit trees of every description that are offered to guests free of charge.  The owner, James (aka Jim) has been running the operation for years and is a kind and thoughtful man.  Daily rates begin at F$25 for dorm facilities to F$110 for a bare bones family home with two bedrooms and kitchen.  The newest bure at F$70 is clean and modern (see above photo) abut has no electricity.  For upmarket backpackers it’s a great bargain. It's located a ten minute walk from the airstrip in Matei. His phone is 888 0443.   Another highly recommended upmarket backpacker haven is Tovutovu, located near Naselesele Village, a few hundred meters past Bhulabhai Store.  The owner, Alan Patterson, has five bures (two which are self-contained) ranging in price from $75 - $125 and boasts 24 hour power—which is almost underhead of in Taveuni airport area.  On the premises is a dive shop run by Tyron Valentine, a local dive master with an excellent pedigree.   Check out www.tovutovu.com You also might consider is the “Tree House” at the Little Dolphin, near the Bhula Bhai Store. Run by Scott, an American, it’s a spacious, clean two story affair with a double bed and extra mattress on the top floor.  Cooking facilities, bathroom and laundry amenities are below.  It’s got a great view from the top floor.  At F$90 it’s a good deal.  (888-0130)   Far away, on the remote side of the island is Taveuni Guesthouse near Vuna. The house overlooks the ocean on a cliff of lava rocks with access to snorkeling and a black sandy beach. It's a good place to explore the southern side of the island which most visitors never get to see. Price for shared room is $25 or $35 for private room. The same people (Viola and Roland ) who own the guest house also run Dolphin Bay Retreat (see photo below) a backpacker scuba diving operation located on Viani Bay, a remote 30 minute boatride from Taveuni. They have four private bures and three safari tents. All accommodation is ocean front, only a few meters from the beach. Snorkeling and diving is great--you're only a few minutes from the Rainbow Reef, one of the premier dive sites in Fiji. Tents start at $25 per person per night up to $55 per person per night for bures. Meal plans ($55 per night) are separate. (www.dolphinbaydivers.com)   Going up to midrange, for a couple wanting some privacy with a terrific seascape, check out Todranisiga a mere 5 minute walk from the airport.. Operated by the winsome May Golding, born and raised in Fiji, she offers three great bures with bedroom, a spacious bathroom, kitchenette, outdoor shower and spectacular views. May (see photo below) also provides lots of goodies such as seasonal fruit from her garden (bananas, passion fruit, green drinking coconuts, papaya, etc) which is available daily. She may also surprise you with baked goods such as muffins, banana bread, scones and the like free of charge. Price is $US155 and she’ll discount you 10% for a stay of over 7 days.  May’s place is a great option for divers—you’re only a five minute walk from two dive operators. This is a winner. (www.todranisiqa.com) Karin’s Garden which is comfortable, modern and Teutonically clean. It has a wonderful observation deck perched on a cliff with that affords a fantastic view a 100 meters or so down from the bungalow. (Great place for a sunset glass of wine.) The accommodation is essentially a self-contained duplex with which at $US120, has the best bang for the buck of any midrange accommodation on the island.  Karin will also cook meals for you and, she’s a good in the kitchen. She is open for dinner, an excellent option for an intimate meal.  It's approximately a 10 minute walk from the air strip at Matei. (www.karinsgardenfiji.com)   In the same price range consider, Makaira, perched on a cliff overlooking the Somosomo Straights is located a 15-minute walk from the airport just opposite the Tramonto Restaurant on heading towards Waiyevo.  Run by Roberta Davis, a Hawaii native, it’s situated on three acres of former coconut plantation with a white sand beach a two minute walk down the hill. There’s only two bures but they are well appointed with hardwood floors, phone, spacious bathroom, single bedroom, kitchenette and an indoor (as well as) outdoor shower. The 180 degree view is spectacular.  Price is $US155 and she’ll discount you 10% for a stay of over 7 days. Activities include fishing, snorkeling and kayaking. They have their our own boat and offer fishing charters. They also offer fresh fish one day a week (open to the public) on Tuesdays. Roberta’s partner is John Llanes, an expert sports fisherman also from Hawaii. (www.fijibeachfrontatmakaira.com)   Maravu (next door to Makaira) is located about two km from the airport and is perched on a hill which overlooks the sea. The views are marvellous. Scattered over 88 acres of verdant, manicured grounds are 21 bures. The older ones were "correct" as the French like to say but the newest ones, renovated in 2004/05, are of a much higher standard. For example the Oceanview Spa Villa has a private open-air courtyard with an outdoor shower (which seems to be the rage in Fiji nowadays), a sun deck and a large Jacuzzi Pool with waterfall. There is a decent restaurant on the property with a small bar. The cuisine can be good but service can be slow. There is no beach on the property but a 3-4 minute walk will bring you to a white sand beach (across the road) which has good snorkeling. The resort is run by a German couple (Joachim and Angela) who purchased the resort a number of years ago. Prices start at US$180 per person for a single or US$130 per person/per night Double and tops out at US$ 375.00 for the Treehouse. There are plenty of excursions available and divers are welcomed thought it's technically not a dive resort. In 2008 Maravu received prestigious awards of excellence from TripAdvisor.com and AAA Tourism Australia which rated Maravu at 4 1/2 stars. Taveuni Palms represents yet another leap up the socio-economic ladder.. is an immaculately maintained 5-star property with great ocean views and only two bures that are something out of the lifestyles of the rich and famous.  To call it super-exclusive is almost an understatement. It’s something for honeymooners of a certain demographic and you have room to bring your best friends!  Both units have two bed rooms/two baths and a splendid outdoor shower.  However, unless you bring your own company Taveuni Palms is not set up for mingling—everything is focused on the guest’s privacy and desires.  Amenities include personal chef (who will gladly give you complimentary cooking lessons), personal boat, personal captain and dive master that all you to dive on your own timetable.  Other amenities entail personal double kayak, complimentary scuba lessons and a private beach where you can swim with your personal dolphins, spotted rays, turtles etc). When possible all food is derived from resort’s own garden, all organically grown.  They send out a questionnaire ahead of time to guests to get their food preferences and design a menu around that.  Typical menu items would be lobster or coconut crab, blackened yellow fin tuna, taro chips, sashimi, create a five course meal.  If you’ve got the means and really, really want to be left alone, I would consider this property.  Price is $825.00 per house per night for 2 persons. Taveuni Island Resort (formerly Dive Taveuni) near Matei Airport is a family run operation and remains one of the better botique resorts in Fiji. The resort is situated on a bluff (see photo) overlooking the sea and the vista is absolutely spectacular--one of the best on the island. It has 11 well appointed oceanview bungalows all of which have been expanded and undergone upgrading in the last year or so with extras such as new tile floors, king-sized beds, air conditioning/fans, outdoor rock showers,and festive floral arrangements. Several million dollars have been spent on the property and it shows.  The food and presentation are excellent. The cliff side horizon pool is one of the outstanding features at the resort. The small powder white beach is a short one minute walk away from the steps of your bungalow. Activities include hiking, kayaking and diving. Prices begin at US $779.00 per bure per night for Luxury Honeymoon Bure and go up to US $ 1,230.00 per night for Luxury Honeymoon Bure. Rates are inclusive of all meals, accommodation, non-alcoholic beverages, transfers to and from Matei airport and 12.5% hotel tax.   Matangi Private Island Resort situated on a horseshoe-shaped, 240 acre private island of the same name located 10 km off the north-east coast of Taveuni. It's owned and operated by Noel Douglas who formerly ran Malcolm Forbes' island and whose family has been in Fiji for 5 generations. The property ranks as one of the finest midrange accommodations in Fiji, offering excellent value. Douglas stresses that Matagi is still a working plantation and he will show guests how a plantation is run. Over the years the resort has evolved from strictly a divers hotel to a getaway that now caters to mostly non-divers. Matangi has a total of eleven Beachfront Bures three Tree House Bures, all with splendid views across the Tasman Strait and facing the neighboring islands of Qamea and Taveuni. Most are constructed in a round Polynesian style.  All are built from local materials such as hardwood, bamboo and coconut thatching and can withstand 160 km/h winds. There's a new main building with an over-the-water deck which provides great vistas that are best appreciated at sunset with a cold Fiji Bitter in hand. Matangi’s meals are reportedly excellent and regularly feature fresh fish and other seafood, locally grown fresh vegetables, tropical fruit and freshly baked bread. A large selection of Australian and New Zealand wines and champagnes are available. Diving in the area is superb, as is light-tackle sport fishing. There is also deep-sea fishing from September to December, and saltwater fly fishing. Other activities include windsurfing, sailing, water-skiing and snorkelling. The island has nature trails, bush walks, caves, inlets and great bird-watching. This is a wonderful place to stay, especially for honeymooners who really want isolation.  The only caveat is that if you want to spend some time sightseeing on Taveuni (the nearest large island) you'll have to take a 30 minute boat ride to get there. In other words, you're really isolated on Matangi but perhaps with the right company, that's not a bad thing. Prices are US$155-US$275 per person and include all meals, nonalcoholic beverages, and excursions. Check out the video below of one couple's Matangi vacation.   Qamea Beach Club is actually not on Taveuni--it's on Qamea, a 15-minute boat ride from the Taveuni's airstrip. It's situated on a small cove fringed by a white sand beach (see below) a kilometer in length. The hotel is nestled at the jagged volcanic cliff which rises prominentsoar behind the property. Qamea can accommodate only a maximum of 28 guests (16 years of age and older) at one time so you're not going to be overcrowded nor overrun with young children (as often occurs at other resorts.)  The entire property was renovated in February 2004 and later that year they constructed o two new Premium Villas, each with over 1,600 square feet, including private swimming pools overlooking the beach.  The attention to detail is very impressive. Bathrooms have imported European fittings, heated towel rack, hair dryer, outdoor riverstone courtyard showers, and complimentary Pure Fiji (brand) amenities. The eleven (650 sq ft) Beachfront Bures have thatched roofs and with 20 foot ceilings and hand polished local mahogany hardwood floors. There's also a 1,200 square foot honeymoon Villa.  All structures are situated just a few steps from the waterand all have verandahs and face the beach. Among the more interesting amenities is a spring-fed swimming pool. There is also a large restaurant/ lounge bure with a verandah overlooking the which makes for very pleasant dining. The food I had was very, very good. Diving is perhaps the biggest attraction and the resort has its own dive operation. Qamea is a comparatively large island and has plenty of room for nature walks. There are also organized visits to the local Fijian village of Vatusogosogo. Prices start at around US$650.00 double occupancy including meals. Rob's Favorite Taveuni Eateries Tovutovu’s Resort’s Vunibokoi restaurant, located on the edge Naselesele Village (near the airstrip in Matei) is operated by local entrepreneur, Alan Patterson.  He specializes in seafood. It's clearly the only restaurant packed on weekends. Prices are in the $15-20 range.  If you get into the bustling port of Waiyevo, a twenty minute drive from the airport, be sure and check out Waci Poki (formerly the Cannibal Café—yes Fijians do have a sense of humor) which has curries and other very tasty basic local fare in the $5-7 range. For desserts don’t miss Audrey Brown’s baked goods (open 10 am to 6 pm) which she dispenses in front of her home, a 5 minute walk from the airport (towards) the Bulabhai store.  Small parcels of roti (a kind of crepes) can be purchased at most shops along the road.  These might include chicken, beef, lamb, goat or vegetable curry.  The best can be purchased from a stall at the airport from Brenda, like her mother, a large woman with a great smile and a great attitude.  Price is anywhere from $1-2 per packet.  They are usually tasty but keep in mind that the vegetable variety tends to be mostly potato with some canned peas (or if you’re luck fresh vegetables such as beans) thrown in for good measure.    What to do on Taveuni         Site of International Dateline The 180th Meridian is about one kilometer south of the Garden Island Resort. Take a right from the entrance of the hotel and go up the road toward the hospital watching for a monument on your right. This was where the international dateline once passed. The dateline was later changed so as not to bisect Taveuni. A five minute walk or less from the dateline is the Meridian Theater which was recently the subject of a documentary film (Reel Paradise). The theater was constructed in 1953.  The photo on the left was taken by Rob Kay in the early 1980s (I think) and the photo on right, in 2002 or thereabouts by Amy C. Elliott (courtesy of the folks from Reel Paradise). Warrior Burial Cave Created by a lava tube, this cave is about 350 meters long and terminates at the ocean edge. In former times it was used by Fijians as a secret burial cave for warriors. It is believed that Taveuni's greatest warriors were buried here in order to keep their remains hidden from enemies. Most of the large bones were removed in the 1950s after the cave was found. Guides will proudly show you the biers where their ancestors were laid to rest. As one would expect the cave is dark and damp. Be sure and bring your hiking shoes. The entire trip, which includes a short visit to Soqulu Plantation, can be arranged from the Garden Island Resort. Take your flashlight. Waitavala Waterslide This waterslide is a 20 minute walk north of the Garden Island Resort. It's a picturesque spot and quite popular with the local kids. It's secluded, verdant and filled with the laughter of children. Golf & Tennis at Soqulu A 15 minute drive south of the hotel is subdivision known as Soqulu Plantation or simply `Soqulu' (pronounced Song-goo-loo). In addition to a number of homes, 30 condos and a club house, there is a 9-hole golf course, two tennis courts (one asphalt and one grass) and a lawn bowls green. All of the outdoor facilities are open to the public but the club house and condos, hasve been shut down. The links are situated on a gorgeous coastal strip of land. Unfortunately the condition of the course is less than magnificent but nonetheless it's fun to play. Wairiki Mission The Wairiki Mission, only 20 minutes walk south of the hotel, is the most architecturally interesting edifice on the island. Situated on the edge of a splendid coconut plantation, it is also known at The Taveuni Catholic mission. It's a good example of British colonial Romanesque architecture. Located on a hill, it overlooks the historic site where Taveuni warriors turned back thousands of invading Tongans in a battle that was fought in canoes just off the beach. It was this particular battle that turned the tide in a war that had seen the Tongan stake over much of Fiji. The locals celebrated by cooking their enemies and eating them with breadfruit. Modern day visitors are invited to attend Mass on Sundays from 7 am to 9 am. Definitely check it out, the singing is wonderful. (Note that there are no pews or seats so be prepared to sit on the floor.) Bird Watching As mentioned above, birding is world class on Taveuni. Access to Des Voeux Peak, a prime habitat is minutes from the Waiyevo area. You can either walk or take a 4-wheel drive vehicle nearly to the top of the 1195 meter peak, which is the second highest on the island. Likewise, Qeleni, on the northern end of the island also affords excellent bird watching. To get there one must take a 4-wheel drive vehicle about five kilometers up a mountain road. Both locales offer the chance to see Orange Breasted Doves, Silktails, Ferntails and Parrots. Vuna Village, Blow Hole, Vatuwiri Estate and Navakawau Vuna, a village near the southernmost end of the island, played an important role in the early European settlement of the Island. The original plantations and homes of the early planters were purchased from Tui Vuna (the local chief) and at least one of the homes, Vatuwiri Farm, is within spitting distance of the village. (The Vatuwiri Estate is still owned by the Tarte family, who are descendants of the original settlers. On the property are the ruins of an old Fijian village and one can hike to an extinct volcanic crater). At the road's terminus you reach Navakawau Village which translates as `end of the road'. En route you will pass a blow hole where the sea has eroded a passage at the edge of the shoreline. A stop at Vatuwiri Farm costs extra but higly recommended. Lake Tagimaucia Lake Tagimaucia is the most famous geographical landmark in Taveuni. Situated in an extinct volcanic crater, at a height of 832 meters, the lake is filled with floating masses of vegetation. It is also home to the indigenous tangimaucia flower which produces red blooms with white centers. The lake is reachable on foot but the hike is an arduous all day affair. Better to take a 4-wheel drive vehicle and view the lake from afar. Kayaking Scrambler Ocean kayaks are available from Bill Madden in Matei and from the Garden Island Resort. They are easy to maneuver and one need not be a tri-athlete to use them. However, it helps to be in good physical condition. They can be rented on an hourly basis.   Tavoro Falls and Lavena area (Ravilevu) Nature Reserves Both these areas are nature reserves protected from logging and development of any manner. Bouma is located in Tavoro National Park about one hour's drive north of the hotel. The taxi will take you to a point just past the village of Bouma from which the falls are only a ten minute walk. Along some of the steeper grades there are step-like wooden levels with hand rails. Occasionally you must ford a creek but there is a rope to help navigate the rocks. There is an admission fee to the park and you'll need to hire a taxi. Your taxi can take up to five people so the trip can be quite reasonable if you have group.) Lavena Village & Ravilevu Nature Reserve This trip can be done in combination with Bouma Falls or separately. Past the falls turnoff you travel another 20 minutes along the road which brings you to one of the most picturesque villages on the island. This is the best beach on the island and is excellent for snorkeling. There is a five kilometer path that leads through the village vegetable gardens and along the pristine coastline. There are Fijian crafts for sale at the reception bure. (There is also an admission fee to the park.) Vunivasa Tour A new excursion in Taveuni that has had good reviews is the Vunivasa Tour, which visits the archeological site of fortified Fijian village.  Here you learn how the ancient Fijians conducted warefare, how they lived and survived in the good old days.  It culminates with a trip to a waterfall, wherein visitors are transported by a “flying seat” that you’ll need to experience to describe.   Fishing:  If your serious about fishing John Llanes, formerly of the Big Island of Hawaii will take you out to catch four varieties of marlin—blue, black, sailfish, and striped. He also regularly snags wahoo (ono in Hawaii), dorado and other denizens of the deep blue for US$300 (half day) or $500 (full day). (www.fijibeachfrontatmakaira.com)