NATURAL HISTORY

Taveuni, known as Fiji's Garden Island, is an elongated emerald enclave (42 kilometers long and averaging 11 kilometers wide). The third largest island in the Fiji archipelago, it is located just south of Vanua Levu (Fiji's second largest island) across from the Somosomo Strait. Verdant, rugged and volcanic in origin, it reaches a maximum height of 1241 meters at Mt. Uluigala. The island's fertile volcanic soil provides a perfect medium for the abundant flora.

Copious rainfall has produced some spectacular waterfalls and the moisture, combined with the fecund earth, has created a thick carpet of vegetation. The dense, virgin rainforests are festooned with orchids and ferns. High in the center of the island is Lake Tagimaucia, famous for the indigenous red and white tagimaucia flower.

Taveuni is noteworthy for the diversity of flora and fauna, particularly the island's bird life. Perhaps the main reason for the variety of bird life is the absence of the mongoose, which was introduced on many of the other islands (particularly where cane was grown) to control the rat population. Taveuni's relatively inaccessible mountains and abundant food supply also have made it a haven for many species once found throughout the group.

Bird watchers consider Taveuni among the best of the big islands. Bird fauna has been impacted less here and the big pigeons and parrots are easy to see. Among the birds on everyone's wish the Azure Crowned Flycatcher.

Perhaps the most famous of all Taveuni's birds is the fabled Orange Dove. The male of the species has green-speckled plumage that changes in season to flaming orange. No photographs exist of this pigeon and the paintings one sees in the bird texts leave you unprepared for the brilliance of its plumage which is florescent orange. Unlike the Orange Dove, which is hard to find, the Taveuni Parrot is ubiquitous. It's squawk and guttural sounds can be heard throughout the island. They are a sight to behold with backs and wings an iridescent emerald green rimmed with sky blue. Sometimes they will gather in feeding flocks of several dozen or more to reach mangos, guavas or other fruit trees. You don't have to go far to see this bird. I've seen them in the palm trees just a few meters from the air strip at Matei.

Years before Europeans arrived, Taveuni was famous for its Kula -- a species of parrot also endemic to the area. In ancient times trading parties of Tongans would journey to Fiji to barter is also one of only two islands in the north of Fiji (the other is Cicia) where the Australian magpie was introduced to control coconut pests. Now a conspicuous part of the avian life, it is admired for its curiously melodic song. In addition to several varieties of dove, there is also a species of Goshawk, with a salmon pink breast, and the Vanikoro Broadbill that has a gunmetal blue head, dark blue wings and orange breast.

Birdwatching groups often stay at the Garden Island Resort and with good reason. The hotel is comfortable but not overpriced, the food is good, the water is safe and access to Des Voeux Peak is close by. Why is the latter important? From the road up to th e peak one passes through the territory of the Collard Lory, Vanikoro Broadbill, Black-naped Tern, Wattled Honeyeater, Fiji Goshawk, [Falcon]

Taveuni is also home to several species of reptiles such as the Pacific Boa, which is still fairly common in the rainforest but is not generally seen by the visitor. The largely unexplored forest and mountains also harbor several known species of palms and other plants not found elsewhere on earth.

Taveuni's magnificent natural rainforest is not only attractive to eco-tourists and naturalists. Sadly, only a few years ago, the island's trees were being cut down by an Asian logging company. This activity, which was approved by the highest levels of government, raised the ire of local environmentalists and dive operators who feared that without proper ground cover the soil will be washed into the lagoon thus ruining the delicate ecology of the reef system. Fortunately the again.


Nature Reserves

The development of two successful national park-like entities, which serve as nature reserves, in the Bouma Falls and Lavena Beach areas have demonstrated that logging is not the only way to earn hard currency for cash-poor villages. The inhabitants of Bouma Village, where a waterfall has been a major tourist attraction for many years, were also offered money to log their communal land. Instead of selling their birthright, at the behest of the New Zealand Government, they were offered a F$60,000 grant to improve the land and create a park centered around the waterfall. They weighed their options and came down on the side of conservation, rather than the lure of easy money from logging. With the funds, Bouma villagers have improved access to the Falls, constructed trails, BBQ pits, benches and picnic spots. When you visit and pay your F$5 admission, think of it as a contribution to the village. A similar project has occurred at the picnic reserve.

© Rob Kay 1999