Vanua Levu (pronounce Va-new-ah Lay-vu), with a population of approximately 130,000, is the second largest island of the Fiji archipelago. With an area of 5538 square kilometers, it is slightly larger than half the size of Viti Levu. The island measures 180 kilometers long and has an average width of 33 kilometers. The island is rugged, untrammeled and the coast is surrounded by an extensive system of coral reefs. Once a center for the copra trade, sugar cultivation is the most important industry and large cane fields can be seen on the dry western and northern coasts. There is a system of roads but they are not as extensive nor as well maintained as on the main island of Viti Levu (except for the paved roads linking Savusavu and Labasa and up the coastal (Hibuscus) Highway toward Lomalagi Resort). Although very near Viti Levu in distance (64 km northeast) it is less developed and less frequented by tourists. Vanua Levu thus offers the guest an ideal opportunity to observe local traditions and culture, relatively untarnished by tourism. The largest centers of population are Labasa and Savusavu, but they are small towns compared to the larger urban centers on Viti Levu. Labasa, largely an Indian community, is a thriving business center tied to the sugar industry. Savusavu, a smaller less developed town, is gaining popularity as a dive destination and yachting community. It has a truly magnificent bay and a friendly local yacht club. One can travel to Vanua Levu either by flying to Savusavu or Labasa, or via local ferry boat from Viti Levu. About Savusavu Savusavu (population 5000) is a one-horse town with a kilometer long main drag facing the bay. The storefronts are rustic and in some cases could use a fresh coat of paint.. The town's economy is however on the mend and town fathers are making a serious effort to change the aesthetics. This includes planting palm trees along the streets, paving the parking lot next to the outdoor market, paving and widening the 3 km of highway between town and the airport and improving another 20 km or so of the Hibiscus Highway. Savusavu is the sole Port of Entry on Vanua Levu -- Fiji’s second largest island. Although the political turmoil in 2000 slowed development for a few years, this has given way to a real estate frenzy over the last few years. This has been fueled primarily by the baby boomers in the U.S. (along with help from Germans and Aussies) looking for vacation and/or retirement properties.  Many local plantation owners, all too happy to cash in while the getting is good, are subdividing their land with a vengeance.  With the price of copra (raw coconut meat) on the mend, the temptation to sell and subdivide land is no longer a great temptation.  Prime ocean front land, within 10 km of Savusavu can go as high as US$300,000 per acre.  Fiji has not seen real estate soar like this and no one is quite certain how long the activity will last. The town has witnessed some economic activity. Restaurants, visitors' accommodations and other businesses catering to tourism have popped up over the last few years. Savusavu citizens have benefited from the jobs created and the town is evolving albeit slowly. The latest development is on the East end of town where a new marina complex (known locally as the "mall" is going in. By Savusavu standards it's a massive project that will entail a combination retail residential project with shops on first floor and apartments on second story. The latter are currently under construction and should be competed by the end of the year. The project will eventually have 130 luxury waterfront villas in a 15 acre gated community, along 1.5 kilometers of waterfront.See www.marinavillagefiji.com for the details. This will totally change the complexion of this very "local" setting. I'm not quite sure how the juxtapositon of such great wealth with a very modest community will play out but time will tell.  In the interim the Savusavu town council should get on the ball and pave the sidewalks which sorely need a facelift. Tourism is also strong--particularly with upscale properties such as Cousteau and Namale. In addition local marinas are thriving with the influx of more yacht activity. As a sign of the times, an excellent wine shop, run by Joe Chung (who formerly ran a wine store in Suva) has opened up at the Copra Shed Marina. They have an excellent selection of Australian, NZ and even French wines. The most striking aspects about Savusavu are the incredible beauty of Savusavu Bay and the hot springs, which add a surreal, twilight zone quality. The hot springs (see photo at right) are scattered liberally around the city limits. Steam rises literally from the cracks in the sidewalks, in grassy lots, from the seashore and even from the municipal pier, which has to be paved periodically due to the corrosion from the thermal activity. Geologically, the whole town is kind of a devils kitchen, which locals have adapted to. For more info on the area check out Savusavu's official Web site. Rob's Favorite Savusavu Accommodations: Savusavu Hot Springs Hotel in the midst of downtown Savusavu is a great bet if you want to stay in town. Run by a local couple, Lorna and Tim Eden, they have 48 rooms that have recently been upgraded. Perhaps the best thing about the place is the splendid view of Savusavu Bay--one of the most spectacular bodies of water in Fiji. It's a great place meet local people and there's often entertainment such as live bands on the weekends. Prices for standard rooms start at F$95 and tops out at F$155 for a more luxurious room.  Rooms have queen beds with additional singles on request, tea/coffee making facilities & refrigerator. Connecting rooms are also available which is handy for families. Two self contained single or double bedroom apartments are also available at weekly or monthly rates. They also offer inexpensive diving, bush treks and sport fishing. It has backpacker dorms as well on the first floor that are better in quality than the competition. (www.savusavufiji.com). The newest item feature at the hotel is the Decked Out Restaurant which has great views and much improved food at affordable (F$15-$30) prices.  I'm also fond of Daku Resort, which is under new ownership. (It was purchased by a former guest.) Situated in a former coconut plantation by the sea (within walking distance town) they cater to the mid-range demographics and cater to families, couples, groups and long terms guests who need cooking facilities. It's friendly and very quiet. Divers are also welcomed. (They work in conjunction with Jean Michel Cousteau's operation located close by). They offer four different types of accommodation starting at F$95 for ocean view bures; two double bures that can handle up to 8 people (F$110); a villa that can handle a family of five or six (F$ $150); a beach house with a large verandah, open living room, three bedrooms, one large bath and kitchen and a " Poolhouse" that can sleep six to eight with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, lounge, kitchen and a large covered deck. (www.dakuresort.com) The Copra Shed Marina also has a single room available (for F$160) which includes large, clean bath, TV and phone.  It's clean, modern and especially handy if you've got a nearby yacht. Ask for Geoff Taylor, the Commandant of the Savusavu Yacht Club for more information. Tel: (679) 885-0457 coprashed@connect.com.fj Rob's Favorite Accommodations (Outside of Savusavu): Just outside of Savusavu (between town and the Cousteau Resort) is a new accommodation called Hans Place run by a fellow who formerly operated the Bula Bookshop at the Copra Shed Marina.  There are two self-contained units with kitchenette, living room, bedroom (with double bed) and bathroom (with shower and toilet). Located about 250 meters from the sea, these are small units, more suitable for couples or a single person rather than families. The lush garden appears to be well maintained. Rates start at F$80 daily for the "Yasiyasi" (F$400- weekly) and F$100 for the "Yaka" unit (F$ 500 weekly). Amenities include a covered deck and DVD/CD Player with TV. (www.fiji-holiday.com) Tropic Splendor Beachfront Cottage, one of the newest properties in Vanua Levu, is a fully self contained bungalow located a 20 minute drive outside of Savusavu on the north shore of Savusavu Bay. I was apprised of it by Leslie O'Day a Reno, Nevada resident, who had a very positive experience there as a guest. She and her husband not only liked the amenities, but they liked their hosts (fellow Americans Jeff and Susan Mather).  Among other things, the Mathers provide a “Weary Travelers” gourmet dinner the first evening guests arrive. They also offer the visitor opportunities to get more intimately involved with local people. For example they will bring visitors to a neighboring village to try net fishing with the ladies, a billibilli (bamboo raft) ride down the river or a tour of a school to see how the local Rotary Club is participates in the educational system. Almost Paradise is located on Sau Bay on the eastern side of Vanua Levu -- a 35 minute boat ride from Taveuni or a 20 minute boat ride from Buca Bay on Vanua Levu.  It's run by two former firefighters, Bruce & Geri-Sue Jacobson from San Clememte, CA . Geri-Sue is a divemaster who works for nearby Dolphin Bay Divers, so diving guests can easily hop on the boat with her on the mornings for some diving. The property is in a very sheltered spot with great snorkeling and a sandy beach close by. Boat rides to Rainbow Reef are priced to just cover gas, so it's a set price per trip regardless of how many people are in the boat. They just opened up in 2007, so everything is quite new (but not luxurious). In addition to the 3 meals/day (included in price), they serve appetizers at 5pm.. In general the food was quite good (international menu, heavier on American fare). Most of the wooden furniture was made by them. This is a great place for people who want a small, quiet place to stay at a reasonable price and don't need a bunch of organized activities. Ssea kayaks are available. Rates are $195.00 FJD/day for 2 people. A third person added to a bure is an extra $75.00 FJD/day. Thanks to Monika Chase for her contribution to this piece. (For more info go to www.almostparadisefiji.com). The Mather's beachfront cottage is built and furnished to a high quality American standard and is just steps from the beach. It's roomy with 600 sqare feet of interior space and a 600 square foot verandah. There are polished native hardwood floors and a natural wood interior decorated with Fijian handicrafts made by local craftsmen. Mrs. O 'Day liked the attention to detail on the property such as the wrap around porch that "begs for a visit with its cushioned lounge chairs and hammock." There's also an outdoor garden shower with flowers and shells that she found romantic. The bedroom has a king-sized bed draped with netting, luxury linens, towels and tiled bathroom with hair dryer, heated towel rack and shower. Other amenities include telephone, radio & CD player, reading library, TV, DVD player and 400+ movie library. The daily rate (double accommodation) is F$360.00 or about US$209. The Beachfront Cottage would be attractive for visitors who want a quality accommodation and a truly "local" experience but don't need or want a hotel setting. (www.tropic-splendor-fiji.com) Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, located a 15 minute ride from Savusavu, is managed and operated by the same group that owns the Post Ranch Inn in California's Big Sur, Sea Ranch Lodge on Northern California's coast, and the Hana Maui Hotel in Hawaii. The prestigious 'Conde Nast Traveler' awarded the resort their #1 'Green Award' over all resorts worldwide for 2005. Cousteau oversees the dive operation and the environmental/educational programs. The Resort offers 26 spacious, Fijian style bures, situated on 17 oceanfront acres. All bures have king and day beds, a large, tiled bathroom with heated towel racks, and private decks. It's located on Lesiaceva Point a ten minute taxi ride from town and with views of both the Koro Sea and Savusavu Bay. Management refers to the resort as "full-service" and caters to a wide range of travelers - active couples, families, soft-adventurers, snorkelers and divers. Separate pools for adults and children. Activities for kids are provided (unusual for an upscale property in Fiji) with the 'Bula Club', Lei Lei Holiday Programs for children up to 7 years old and the Marau Holiday Program for kids 6 to 12. Both programs are complimentary for two children with a nominal charge for more than two. (The Lei Lei and Marau programs have their own 'sun-safe' swimming pools). Parents may join their children for meals in the Bula Camp area or eat together in the family dining room. A 'dedicated' nanny is assigned to the children throughout their stay. "The Bula Camp program was a 'highlight' of our stay here, the nanny was terrific with our children and we never had a worry, giving us much needed time for ourselves" recent guests from Australia. A marine biologist and a Fijian naturalist are also on staff to educate guests. Reserve a half day trip to your own private island, the staff will prepare a picnic lunch. Catch a complimentary Cousteau van into Savusavu for sightseeing and shopping. Live Fijian music is performed in the evenings, outstanding 12 string guitar and ukelele, and there's an open-air restaurant with local and International dishes prepared with many ingredients from the resort's organic fruit and vegetable garden. Separate dining areas for families and couples assure a pleasant dining experience. Meals can be taken in your bure, under a private thatched roof covered table next to the sea or reserve an exclusive table at the end of the pier for truly romantic dining. Typical menus include homemade soups, fresh salads, a choice of a vegetarian, fish or meat dishes, and desserts made daily by the Resort's pastry chef. Prices range from US$535 for garden view bures to US$1950.00 for a villa. Prices includes all meals, activities such as kayaking, sailing, snorkeling (except scuba diving), and transfers to and from the Savusavu Airport. Children 12 and under stay free. Moody's Namenalala Island is a 110-acre resort and nature reserve, 24 km south of Vanua Levu (off Wainunu Bay) and 32 km north-west of Koro. It houses twelve guests in six hand-crafted bures situated among trees and jungle vegetation. The island is crisscrossed with paths that lead to precipitous cliffs and lonely beaches. As one observer said, it’s as close to a “Survivor” scenario as you’re likely to see. The accommodations feature floor-to-ceiling sliding wooden doors on three sides so that you’ll both get a get views and the cooling effect of the wonderful trade winds. The visitor is treated to a canopied king-sized bed with mosquito netting and the sounds of the sea lapping at the shore. The owners, Tom and Joan Moody, make use of both fossil fuels and solar energy. Each unit has a propane tank to heat the shower water, a hot plate for coffee, and to power the gas lamps. Roof gutters capture rainwater (no well water on this island) which is stored in a cistern below the floors. Seawater is used for flushing the toilets. A solar panel powers a small reading light and fan over the bed.  Dinners are served at two large family-style tables that always include fresh homemade bread and an iceberg lettuce, tomato and onion salad. In addition to locally caught fish such as mahimahi you’re likely to get chicken, pasta with tomato sauce, plantains, lamb chops and other American-style cuisine. Desserts such as chocolate or cheesecake are made daily. You’re not going to starve here. The most stunning aspect is the pristine state of the flora and fauna. Because in the past there was no constant supply of fresh water, the island never supported a permanent human population. Consequently the island remained undisturbed. The Moody’s have in fact left the island a wildlife sanctuary. Turtles lay their eggs on the beaches and other fauna such as flying foxes, small colonies of red-footed boobies and other bird life can be seen. Guests often include birders as well as divers. The island has superb diving and snorkeling, windsurfing, shelling and fishing. Transport is either via Turtle Airways seaplane from Nadi to Namena, or by regularly scheduled flights to Savusavu, then by speedboat (1-3/4 hours) to the island. Moody’s has a five night minimum stay which includes accommodations, meals, activities, and round trip taxi transfers between the Savusavu Airport and Namena Island. Five night package cost is US$1375.00 + tax per person based on twin-share (2 people sharing a bure. Additional nights add US$215 + tax per person. Only additional-pay activity is scuba diving @ US$50 + tax per dive; must be a certified diver. Namale Resort, located 10 km from Savusavu on Vanua Levu (Fiji's second largest island) has been a coconut plantation since the 1860s. Tradition has it that the land (which is now a 325 acre estate) was originally purchased from the Fijian Chief Tui Na Savusavu for 10 guns. The property accommodates a maximum of around 30 guests at a time in 14 large bures and two large villas--the Bula House and the Tatadra House. Many of the bures are built adjacent to huge volcanic outcroppings and sculpted to fit into the landscape. Honeymoon Bures offer incredible ocean views over the Koro Sea and include Jacuzzi bathtubs and an oceanview from your oversized bed or sofa. The owner of the resort is Tony Robbins, a well known American motivational speaker and writer famous for his "infomercials". There is a sandy beach (which I understand Mr. Robbins had constructed) with a nearby "swimming hole", the size of an Olympic sized swimming pool, surround by reef pool that allows one to plenty of room.  The beach is quite isolated and bounded by Mr. Robbins' private home and a cove that leads to Namale's private marina. There are ample deck chairs and hammocks strung between trees. Situated a few meters from the shore, the property is large enough to provide numerous hiking trails that visit a waterfall and traverse a rainforest. Other amenities and activities include private dining on one of eight decks overlooking the ocean, two jacuzzis and two pools, horseback riding, tennis, sailing, windsurfing, diving and visits to the local Fijian village. The cuisine is reportedly excellent with a great wine collection to augment the fresh seafood and other dishes.  There's a 10,000 square foot spa on a cliff with a fantastic view overlooking the Koro Sea (see photo on right courtesy of Marc Carignan). There are a series of pools of various temperatures and a cold plunge. The spa pools are all available to guests and if you want special treatments such as hdyrotherapy or massage, they are available from the specially trained staff.  Let's not forget the "Wellness Center" which consistes of a very well equipped gym, with free weights, exercise ball, rebounds, and multiple exercise machines. The other part is a state-of-the-art colon hydrotherapy center with five private "Libbe" beds, the latest in colonics. There's also a handy recreation room called "Kava Bowl" with comfortable sofas, fluffy pillows and a two lane bowling alley. If you want to catch up on your email, it has two computers with high speed Internet access and a dedicated Macintosh with 12,000 songs and a terrific sound system. There's also a conference center on the grounds that can accommodate 60 people in a theater style setting. Executive Coach Marc Carignan, a guest from San Diego, likened Namale to the Four Seasons hotels as a benchmark. It was the "best of the best" in his experience. He liked his accommodations, a garden bure which had two private bedrooms with private hall, polished hardwood floors and airy ceilings. He said it had a "minimalist but tropical and stylish Fijian motif." The only downside in his estimation was lack of aircon in his room.  If you do plan to stay at the property avoid staying there when the owner has one of his conferences. Visitors who are not part of the Robbins set may feel left out.  That said, the resort has received a host of accolades over the years and in August 2004 was featured on the cover of Architectural Digest.  Rates (which include all meals, accommodations, transfers and beverages) start at about US$850 double occupancy for the "Tropical Bure" and go up to $US2100 for the "Tatadra House ". Lomalagi is a small (six-unit) property with perhaps the most spectacular natural setting of any resort in Fiji. Located on a bluff, the Lomalagi (pronounced lom-ah-lahngi) means "heaven" in Fijian. The translation is apt. The resort overlooks Natewa Bay, the largest in the South Pacific. Each of the six, forest green, bungalows has a commanding view of the bay which has a cloud-shrouded mountain range as a backdrop. Below is a shoreline great for beachcoming and snorkeling from shore. They will provide beach booties, which come in handy for strolls among the mangroves. There is however, no sand beach. What they do have is a large, salt water, swimming pool with a rock sculpture as a centerpiece. The large (900 square foot) bungalows each have a 300 square foot deck, polished pine wood floors, queen-sized bed and a modern, very large bathroom (including bath and huge open shower). Each of the units has a fully equipped kitchen witha full range of appliances including microwave, coffee maker, toaster-oven and a two-burner gas range. For those who want to get away from it all, while basking in natural beauty, Lomalagi is the ticket. Each bungalow is tucked into a lush, very private hillside nook studded with coconut palms. A bell is placed a stone's throw from each bungalow entrance so that visitors can announce their presence in an unobtrusive manner. Food was good and your hostess, Ms. Collin McKenny (who hails from Seattle) provides a home-style experience—both in terms of cuisine and atmosphere — rather than that of a toney resort. Breakfast typically entails a choice of omelets, potato pancakes, home made sausage, cereal, French toast, ham & eggs and fresh fruit. Locally grown vegetables and fruit are readily available and frequently used. The eggs come from a farm only a few miles away and were incredible. Locally made curries are excellent.  Activities include kayaking, mountain biking, snorkeling, (barebacked) horseback riding, spear and hand line fishing. Bay and deep sea fishing as well as diving trips can be arranged out of Savusavu which is a half hour drive from the resort. Village visits and local tours can also be arranged. The late George Harrison rented the propety several years ago but it has yet to be discovered. Prices with a three night minimum stay start at US$401 per couple per night for a deluxe villa with includes three meals per day. (Contact Collin to inquire about "last minute deals" for US$335 per couple which includes accommodation and meals.) For reservations or information contact Lomalagi at lomalagi@connect.com.fj or go to www.lomalagi.com. What to do in Savusavu Rent a car and explore the Hibiscus Highway. If you don't want to rent a car, you can negotiate a taxi for a half-day's exploratory tour for F$80 or thereabouts. Trek, dive, sail or windsurf. (Windsurfers should note that the nearby lagoon has some of the best sailboarding conditions in the world.) Grab a beer at the Planters Club, a classic South Seas haunt, and catch up on the local gossip. You'll probably hear more than you bargained for. Have a cup of coffee or a scone at the Captain's Cafe at the Copra Shed Marina and take in the view of incredible Savusavu Bay. The Copra Shed was formerly just that, a warehouse for copra before its shipment to processing plants. The structure was gutted, completely rebuilt and now is home to various offices including Beachcomber Shipping, Pacific Sun Air, Air Fiji, Savusavu Yacht Club, Captain's Cafe, a gift shop, a marine supply store, a real estate office, an Internet cafe type facility, a travel company called Trips n' Tours and the Customs offices. (Savusavu is now a port of entry for yachties.) Also check out the new Wai Tui Marina, which is also quite popular with yachties and visitors. They offer barbecue night, curry night, and have local music. New eateries include the new German-Fijian operated Bula Re cafe that offers decent food, espresso, wine, and Internet service. There is a pearl farm nearby that provides educational tours (find out at Trips n' Tours in the Copra Shed Marina), the Tui Tai (a ship) which offers 3-4 day adventure trips and Seahawk Sail charters, another new concern, also now based in Savusavu.  Adventure travel and dive enthusiasts should check out Eco-Dive run by Curly Carswell, who also owns a travel concern that offers land tours, kayaking and has the outlet. It's located next to the Seaview Paradise Cafe.  Where to eat: Cruisers is a brand new Japanese restaurant, which opened up at the Copra Shed Marina situated on the wharf side, facing the bay. It’s owned and operated by a Japanese couple who are offering authentic Japanese fare such as sushi and sashimi. The food is high quality and at FJ$12 for the Ahi Tuna Dinner, very resonable. Other dishes include Tempura fish and chips. The Bula Re restaurant has seafood, local and “European” dishes in the $15-20 range. The Seaview, down the street from Hot Springs Hotel has excellent breakfasts and the best curries in town for $5-8.  Also at the Copra Shed, the Captains Café has excellent breakfasts—two eggs, whole wheat bread and fruit plate for about $10.  In the evening try their pizza.  Eat out on the deck overlooking the yachts and the bay.  Another old favorite is Charan's which is located upstairs next to the WestPac Bank on Main Street. They have comfy chairs, a big screen TV and great Indian curries, stir fry and pizza for a very reasonable $6 on up....and that's for dinner! Pettine Simpson, who formerly ran the popular Decked Out Café (before it burned down) now opearates out of the Hot Springs Hotel. She offers a variety of local fare that has received good reviews. Nightlife:  Admittedly there's not too much to choose from. On Friday nights it's the Yacht Club. (Don't wear a hat inside or you'll have to "shout" the entire bar a round of drinks.)  On Saturdays it's the Planters Club. Both clubs require membership from local but guests are welcomed if they sign in. The deck at the Hot Springs Hotel is also a good place to watch the sun set.  Shopping In Savusavu:  Black pearls (which are raised in the waters of Savusavu Bay) can be purchased in town at the J. Hunter Pearls Fiji showroom on the main drag just a few meters from the entrance of the Hot Springs hotel. Prices for inexpensive pearls start at $20 and range from $400 to $4000 for top grade.  If you’re in the market for black pearl “set jewelry” you’ll spend anywhere from $100 to $10,000. Other very local products to consider purchasing are woven goods such as large mats (“ibe” in Fijian), tablemats or even purses derived from kuta, a locally grown reed indigenous to Vanua Levu.  Kuta can be woven finer than more ordinary fiber such as pandanus and has a more lustrous sheen. You can pick up kuta products at Taka’s Gift Shop over at the Copra Shed Marina. Marina Facilities The Copra Shed Marina has 8 stern to wharf berths for vessels up to 20 metres. Water and electricity are available at the marina berths. Seventeen moorings are available for vessels of varying sizes. Water and fuel (diesel and pre-mix) are available at our designated fuel dock. Services for yachts within the complex include hot showers, toilets, laundry, Internet office, telephone, waste oil and garbage disposal. Repair and maintenance services such as sail repair, refrigeration and electrical works can be arrange upon request. The Copra Shed Marina also houses the Captain's Café restaurant, Savusavu Yacht Club, a marine chandlery, art gallery, handicrafts shop, butcher shop and booking offices for both international and domestic air and sea travel. The Waitui Marina is adjacent to Savusavu's main street. It has a combination of (33) moorings (some drilled in helix and some heavy duty conventional moorings). Rental by day, week or month, fees include assistance in arranging Customs, Health, Immigration and Quarantine clearance available. Amenities include dinghy pontoon, hot showers and 8 weeks honorary membership to the Waitui Club, which entails a bar, TV reading room, library and daily weather information. (All tourists and yacht crews are eligible for visitor membership). Additional facilities include arrangement of onward cruising permits, mobile phone hire, Saturday night BBQ and band, Laundry, Underwater hull cleaning, typing, faxing. Tradewinds Marine operates the refueling and rewatering dock and Yacht Chandlers. Wedding Photography Barefoot Island Video (Fiji) Ltd is a Savusavu-based company that shoots digital stills and videos of weddings. It's owned and operated by an American couple (John & Diana) who have lived in Fiji for more than 4 years now and understand the problems inherent doing this kind of business in Fiji. They come highly recommended and will travel anywhere in Fiji to get the job done. Go to www.bivfiji.com for more info. Labasa Labasa (pronounced Lam-bah-sah) is a hot, dusty sugar mill town entirely dependent upon cane, which is grown in great quantities in the area. With a population of about 30,000, it's much larger than Savusavu and entirely different in nature. The population is primarily Indian in origin and consists of Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs, with their distinctive turbans. The surrounding countryside, covered with cane and golden sun burnt hills also has volcanically sculpted black lava outcroppings in nearby Vunika. During cane crushing season (between June and January) keep an eye out for trucks overloaded with cane heading for the mill. What to do in Labasa Labasa is primarily a business town but shopping for Indian clothing such as saris or jewellery is first rate. Check out shops such as Meenos or the Kalynajipala Emporium for clothing or Vasram's Jewellery Store for these items. Activities such as golf and tennis are available at the FSC (Fiji Sugar Corporation) Club. Other private clubs (which are available to visitors) such as the Farmers Club and the Labasa Club are good places to sip a beer and meet the locals. There are several good places to eat in town including Bhindis for a homemade samosa or a sandwich or Govinda Restaurant next to the Sun Air Office for a curry. Where to Stay Backpackers will find the Riverview Motel to their liking while mid-range travelers should have good luck with the Friendly North Inn. For business travelers or those who want a modicum of comfort should try the Grand Eastern.