Of all the Fiji islands the Yasawa (pronounced Yah-sow-wah) Group is the most archetypically `South Pacific'. Perhaps that is why both versions of Blue Lagoon were shot on location in the Yasawas. There are about 20 islands of volcanic origin, which lie in a chain just off the northwest coast of Viti Levu. The island chain begins about 40 kilometers northwest of Lautoka and stretch for approximately 80 kilometers. From a distance they suggest a string of emerald beads lying on the horizon. Up close they are precipitous, with long stretches of sandy beaches fringed by azure waters. The beauty of Yasawa has lured the tourist dollar, which is fortuitous for villagers: arable land is limited, and some crops are difficult or even impossible to grow.
The islands are a major attraction for cruise vessels originating in Lautoka, and in the last several years numerous accommodations have opened up in the region. Many are "upmarket" backpacker haunts, which offer good value for those who want basic accommodations close to ocean. Prices for the numerous backpacker resorts that have sprung up in the Yasawa Group range from F$100-150--meals included. The major islands where tourist meccas exist include (from north to south)--Yasawa, Nacula, Tavewa, Nanuya Lailai, Matacawa Levu, Naviti and Waya.
Geography
The Yasawa group is volcanic in origin. It comprises six large islands and fourteen smaller ones, and has a total area of 135 sq km. From a point 40 km north-west of Lautoka, the islands stretch for more than 80 km in a north-easterly direction, forming a broken ribbon of land rarely more than five km wide and generally much less. The principal members of the group are high, their summits ranging from 250 to 600 meters in height. Except for the southern end, the land formation is so straight that a line could be drawn through a map of the islands with a ruler.
West of the Yasawas there is an extensive area of unsurveyed water littered with reefs. The only safe passage for ships is between Yasawa Island and Round Island, 22 km to the northeast. This was the route used by Captain Bligh, though how he managed to find it - especially considering that he was being chased at the time by a speedy war canoe filled with cannibals - is a mystery. The maze of barrier reefs lying between the islands and the open sea effectively intercepts ocean currents and prevents the free flow of tidal water into the lagoon, creating unfavorable ecological conditions for the growth of coral. Thus, apart from the few massive formations in the open water there is little coral development except for near the northernmost island. Despite the lack of coral, however, there are plenty of fish, and snorkelling is excellent. Coconut crabs (see photo above) are also found in the Yasawa Goup.
Getting Around:
Before you plan your adventure to Yasawa, here is one important logistical obstacle that will help you reach your awaiting island paradise. Out of Nadi, only one service runs daily through Mamanuca and to the top of Yasawa; Awesome Adventures. You can reach any resort via Awesome Adventures and return to Viti Levu any day of your choosing. Also, you can island hop within the Yasawas and Mamanucas fairly easily. The only catch is that the cruise is on a daily cycle that takes it from the bottom to the top and back again. So the best way to see as much of the Yasawas as possible with the least amount of hassle is to ride to the top and travel south.Dollar for dollar Yasawa Flyer is the best way to get around in the Yasawas.
Awesome Adventures also offers a party haven aka cruise for young
people, or simply young at heart. The Wanna Taki travels to Soso bay and drops anchor within view of a handful of other resorts. Guests can either take the kayaks out for a spin to see the nearby beaches or hangout at the bar. Its charm is that there is little else to do than socialize and catch sunrays. Another means of travel is Turtle Airways, which offers special rates for budget travelers to the Yasawas. Flights leave for the Yasawas daily, with the journey taking 30 minutes from Nadi to Nacula. For further information or to make a booking: Turtle Airways Tel: (679) 6721 888 or reservations@turtleairways.com.
Rob's Favorite Accommodations:
Yasawa Island Resort is an understated luxury lodging with 18 bures nestled along a white sand beach. All bures have huge decks, king size beds and large bathroom. Small touches abound. Each bure is stocked
with homemade cookies and there is a half shell clam basin to wash your feet. A number of treks that can be taken around the island and peaks of several hundred meters provide remarkable vistas. Mountain bikes are available as are snorkeling gear and scuba diving. Food is one of the best reasons to stay here. Seafood is caught locally and all meals offer fresh fruit and liberal amounts of fresh vegetables. Typical dishes were homemade ravioli, avocado & shrimp salad, homemade breads and fresh lobster. Unlike some of the other resorts where everyone dines together, here one can choose to dine with friends or at your own table. Great food, friendly management and staff and a gorgeous setting make YIR a winner. YIR is a 25 minute plane ride from Nadi Airport which costs US$185. Prices start at US$820 per couple, which includes all meals.
Nacula
Nacula Island is located in central Yasawa, 85 miles north of Nadi International Airport. The northern most island where tourist properties have been established is Nacula which has three highly recommended high end backpacker retreats. All have excellent white sand beaches, good food, lots of water activities (such as kayaking and diving) and limited electricity provided by gas or diesel powered generators. Some (but not all) have local style thatched roof bures. They also offer proximity to Fijian Villages, which many resorts in Fiji do not offer.
Oarsman’s Bay Lodge is on a 1200 meter long white sandy beach--the best beach in the area-- and has six individual and two family bures. There is also a 13- bed dormitory with shared facilities built above a dining and bar area. Oarsman is preferable for couples--it's not exclusively for backpackers. You'll notice that the price is higher than its competition, but that's because Oarman's consistently lives up to its reputation. Located next door to
Oarsman's,
Nalova Bay is owned and operated by a local Fijian couple. They reportedly serve excellent food. The beach in front of both Oarsmans and Nalova is fantastic for kids, as it is more like a pool. A large cottage provides sleeping accommodation in single or double beds for a maximum of six. A twin beachside bure accommodates two and includes double bed, private hot and cold bathroom facilities. While it is priced slightly less than Oarsman, peace and quite amidst breathtaking views is easy to find. Snorkeling on both sides of the bay features large array of sea life, including turtles (on occasion), small rays, octopus etc. Both Nalova and Oarsmans feature excursions to the local village, Sunday church service at the village, visits to the famous Blue Lagoon, visits to Sawa-i-lau Underwater caves and open ocean snorkelling. www.nalovabayresortfiji.com).
Located next door to Oarsman's, Nalova Bay is owned and opereat by a local Fijian couple. They reportedly serve excellent food. The beach in front of both Oarsmans and Nalova is fantastic for kids, as it is more like a pool. A large cottage provides sleeping accommodation in single or double beds for a maximum of six. A twin beachside bure accommodates two and includes double bed, private hot and cold bathroom facilities. Price is F$155.00 per night Single or Double and tops out at F$350. (Meals are included). Snorkeling on both sides of the bay features large array of sea life, including turtles (on occasion), small rays, octopus etc. Both Nalova and Oarsmans feature excursions to the local village, Sunday church service at the village, visits to the famous Blue Lagoon, visits to Sawa-i-lau caves and open ocean snorkelling. (www.nalovabayresortfiji.com)
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Another place to consider is Safe Landing, which is owned and operated by Tevita and Rocky Volavola, local Fijians who exude charm and graciousness. It's a good place to meet local people, who hail from the nearby village of Naisisili, There are five traditional Fijian bures and 4, 6 bed dorms, all with shared facilities. Prices begin at $20.00 per person for campers up to $120.00 for the "grand" bure. Meal plans are F$40.50/person/day.
(www.fijibudget.com/safe-landing.htm)
Tavewa
Tavewa is a small, high island approximately 12 km in circumference just west of Nacula.. It is entirely freehold or privately held land, owned by a number of local families. Getting from one side to the other is no more than a ten minute walk. There are no vehicles, roads or stores. It's lush with vegetation and fruit trees include papaya and mango.
On the island are three family run resorts, two of which, David's Place and Otto & Fanny Doughty's are recommended. Both are located on flat grassy areas just a stone's throw from the beach, shaded by coconut palms.
Both occupy white sand beaches that slope gently into the sea. Food at both David's is filling but will not be confused with gourmet offerings. Food at Fanny's is a cut or two above. Henry, Fanny & Otto Doughty's son, is a trained chef and regularly bakes for guests. Afternoon tea is served by him and at the other properties as well.
Otto & Fanny's is also a cut above in quality of accommodations. They have two excellent family bures which sleep four. (Theh can also provide cribs.) Private Bures cost $190.00 including 3 meals per day per couple. They are self contained and feature amenities like fridges and private bath. There is also a dormitory with 8 single beds and shared facilities of a toilet and bathroom. Dorm Room cost is $90 including 3 meals per day per person. (Photo of Otto and Fanny courtesy of Sarah Valentine--www.ottoandfanny.com)
David's has eight basic bures and 6 newer beach bures. There is also a 20 bed dorm with shared facilities. Prices begin at F$45pp
and top out at F$150(couple) for a private bure--meals included. (www.fijibudget.com/davids-place.htm)
A major issue with some of Tavewa's properties is water or lack of it. Water at David's is not potable. Otto and Fanny have plenty of spring water, which is suitable for drinking.
Both resorts are served by a dive operation called Westside Watersports, run by the affable Lance Millar. His shop is on the beach, adjacent to Otto and Fanny's property. He provides PADI certification courses as well as the usual guided dives. He also rents snorkeling gear at a nominal price. (westside@connect.com.fj)
Nanuya Lailai
Nanuya Lailai the island where the Brook Shields movie – “The Blue Lagoon” was filmed is the home of five (mostly backpacker) properties. On the northern end is Nanuya Island Resort, which has a wonderful white sand beach and all the amenities including diving, kayaking, fly fishing and village visits. (It's not a backpacker facility.) The thatched bures (four deluxe and four traditional) are a cut or two above the rest. Amenities for villas include, fan, queen size bed and 2 single beds with private bathroom (hot and cold running water) and fridge. Each unit can accommodate a maximum of 4 guests. The smaller bures have a double/twin size bed with bath. Each bure can accommodate a maximum of 2 people. Prices start at around US$100 per night double occupancy not including food. No dorms here so it's better for couples who want privacy. (www.nanuyafiji.com)
The other properties on Nanuya Lailai are strictly backpacker/dorm oriented. The best of the bunch is probably Sunrise, which has room for about 40 and (unlike the others) has access to plenty of water. (Note that often the Yasawas face chronic water shortages.)
Matacawa Levu
Matacawa Levu also located in the same general area as Nanuya and Tavewa is home to a new boutique property with nine bures, called Navutu Stars Resort. The Italian owners say it is an Asian-Mediterranean-Fijian fusion of aesthetics complete with Southeast Asian objects d'art, wet bar, cd players, and "outdoor day beds to indulge in lazy naps under the stars". They proudly proclaim that there's no television or phone in the sumptuous bungalows. The restaurant caters only a la carte dishes (mostly seafood) cooked expressly for guests according to their tastes and preferences. This is definitely for the well-heeled. Good snorkeling and swimming is available off their white sand beach. For more info, including new age music that appears when you long on to their website go to www.navutustarsfiji.com.
In addition to the upscale accommodation is Long Beach, a small family-run backpacker haunt on the southern end of the island. The good news is that it caters to a maximum of 20 guests. The management is Fijian and hence it's a good place to learn about Fijian culture. Activities include fishing, a medicinal walk, and cooking lessons. The 8-bed dorm is a large traditional bure, located right on the white sand beach which is gorgeous. The lagoon is protected which offers good swimming and (www.fijibudget.com/long-beach.htm)
Naviti
Naviti, which is south of the Tavewa area, is home to four backpacker retreats, three of which come highly recommended: Mantaray (most expensive—better class of accommodamtion), Korovou Resort, and Barefoot Lodge.
Mantaray Island Resort (with prices ranging from $25 to $150 per night) is the most upscale on Naviti and has four varieties of accommodation—tents, dorm, tree house bures and jungle bures. All have the usual ocean excursions and activities such as kayaking, snorkel, fishing diving, etc. There are plenty of social activities to while away the moonlit nights--The Sunset ‘Happy Hour', Full Moon Parties, kava drinking and theme nights among others. (www.mantarayisland.com)
I’ve also had good reports about Barefoot Island (which is where Captain Cook cruises drops its clients off). It has a great beach and excellent snorkeling with coral gardens right offshore. Accommodations consist of twenty twin share traditional bures. Each has two single beds. (Linen is supplied but BYO towel). The showers and toilets are communal.
Korovou Resort (the only one with a swimming pool) is also worth checking out. They offer 2 large beach side bures, 6 private beachfront cottages with fan, island dormitory of 24 beds, one family bure and a twin or double island lodge. A campsite is also available to those who bring their own tent. Rates start at $40 for campers up to $155 for the beachfront bures. Snorkeling is excellent--be sure and check out Manta Rays Passage’ to see the rays close up and personal. (www.travelmaxia.com/extended.cfm?Memberid=436)
Waya
Octopus Resort is situated on gorgeous stretch of white sand beach on Waya Island, far off the beaten track. Though basic and minimalist, the environs are tastefully decorated and carefully thought out. The source of electricity is solar panels and there is plenty of good potable water available. Currently there is only cold water but this may change. There is one main structure, an openair bar/dining area shaded by a canopy. It has a sand floor and a small walkup bar that serves very cold beer. There are 17 large, simple bures designed for double occupancy but can house up to ten individuals if necessary. Bure's can accommodate, singles, couples and families. Each bure has its own private bathroom featuring a commercial grade, environmentally friendly solar powered hot water system. There are also open roofed showers, which are now ubiquitous throughout Fiji.
The restaurant offerings include spaghetti, omlettes and very fresh seafood, chop suey, chicken dishes at reasonable prices. Though not a backpacker property, Octopus does provide a 13 person dormitory which they like to say is the best in Fiji. That may be true. It's equipped with single beds (rather than bunks) a quality pillow, mosquito net, bedside table, reading lamp and fan. Dorm beds are supplied with fresh clean linen, towels and a beach towel daily. Prices range from F$30 with dorm beds to F$199 for the luxurious "lodge" rooms. Food is F$40 per day for three meals. (www.octopusresort.com).
Octopus has its own transfer vessel, the Amberley, a 35 ft purpose built aluminum tri-hull water taxi. The Amberley departs daily from Lautoka at 10am and takes approximately 90 minutes to reach the resort. Price of a transfer is $70 for adults and $35 for children (3-10 yrs) which includes each way
Kuata
Skipping to the southernmost island in the chain is another upmarket backpacker property called Kuata Island Resort, which is just south of Waya on the island of the same name. Kuata offers equally beautiful environs as the northern islands. Kuata Natural Resort is strategically located so that visitors can watch both the sun rise and set against the horizon from the edge of its beach. With nightly entertainment ranging from dancing competitions to open mic sessions, there is quite literally always something to do at Kuata. Possibly the most unique characteristic of Kuata Natural Resort is the open social atmosphere sparked by the congeniality of the entire staff. While staying with Kuata, the staff invited the entire hotel to cheer them on during a interregional rugby tournament. This was merely one example of the staff's warmth. They offer bunked dorms with mosquito nets and washrooms as well as cozy bures tucked away from the rest of the guests. It has its own travel office where guests can arrange a wide range of activities from above and under water.
(www.pacific-resorts.com/fiji/kuata-resort)
Booking:
Most of the properties can be booked by contacting them individually. I would also consider book via Margaret Travel, a Nadi Airport-based agency that specializes in Yasawa Travel. She knows all the players and can provide very objective advice. Contact her at Margarettrvl@connect.com.fj
Thanks to Paddy Ryan for the Coconut crab shot at top.