Uncrowded Waves… If you surf, you have already heard that Fiji has some of the finest and most consistent breaks on the planet. Spots such as `Cloud Break’ and `Swimming Pools’ near Tavarua are legendary. There are however, lesser known, less expensive surf camps and accommodations on the main Island of Viti Levu and Kadavu. Not only are these locales inexpensive, but chances are you won’t have to wait your turn in the line up because you may be the only one.

Fiji is a great place to surf—the water is warm and clean there’s an abundance of surf, limited crowd factor and there’s the sense of the exotic locale. Because Fiji has the third largest barrier reef in the world, accessibility is a major factor when looking for waves. The upshot is that most of Fiji’s waves necessitate boat access rather than a straight paddle from the beach. Some areas that have beach access are on Viti Levu’s Coral Coast which offers a wide range of surf potential given the right conditions and high tides.

Tides are a crucial factor in Fiji with two meter tide differences and this must be taken into account when surfing Fiji reefs since most of them cannot be surfed on lower tides. There are many reef passages that if approached right, with a workable swell direction, favorable wind and correct tides a surfer could have a dream surf session.

There are 3 areas that are accessible for surfing in Fiji: Around Nadi (the breaks are mostly around Tavarua and Namotu islands - but the resorts are difficult to get to without reservations), around Pacific Harbour (Frigate's Passage near Beqa Island) and down in Kadavu. You should be able to find some good backpacker / dormitory accommodations in both Nadi and Pac Harbour, but I'd do some checking before going to Kadavu without reservations. The easiest thing would be to stay in the Nadi area once you arrive and get in touch with some surfing people around there.

The video of Timmy Curran Cloud Break will give you an idea of what to expect on a good day off of Viti Levu in the Namotu/Tavarua area.

Below is a map and weather chart and accompanying text (courtesy of Globalsurfers.com) that provides a great resource for surfers planning on a visiting Viti Levu.

If you click you the breaks listed on the map a link will take you to a corresponding page on the GlobalSurfers.com. This will provide a wealth of information such as the break’s degree of difficulty, direction, type and the the best type of board to use.

In addition to this data, there’s a Fiji Surf / Travel forum on the linked page that allows readers to post questions and answers to surfing, accommodations and the like. Vinaka Vaka Levu to Jeroen and the gang at GlobalSurfers.com.

Weather in Fiji

Climate: Fiji has a tropical climate with a wet and dry season. The wet season is between November and April, which is also when hurricanes and cyclones are most likely to occur while the dry season is between May and October. The prevailing trade winds blow from the east for most of the year and average annual precipitation varies from 1,780 mm (70 inches) to 2,030 mm (80 inches). Average temperature ranges in Suva are from 20 to 26 degrees Celsius (68 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit) in August to 23 to 30 degrees Celsius (73 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit) in February.

When to Go

The Fiji surf season is year round for the southern areas of Fiji but more consistent during our winter months.

April - October. For the northern areas, waves are more consistent during our Summer time (cyclone season.)

November - March. Fortunately for surf, Fiji sits in the middle of the Pacific exposed from all angles to extreme weather patterns that develop our waves many thousands of miles away. A majority of Fiji waves develop as a result of some of the most treacherous weather patterns in the world -the South Pole's roaring 40's. Waves that are born through these systems filter up through the gap between Australia and New Zealand to approach Fiji through this window producing well-groomed solid ground swells.

A Historical Perspective from Ian Muller

Surfing in Fiji during recent times, is still a very young sport amongst the locals even though history states differently. It has been documented by early sailors that came down from Hawaii, that they experienced surfing being practiced by our ancestors in Vuna, Taveuni and Koro way back in the late 1800's and early 1900's. They wrote that the Fijian surfers were more graceful than the Hawaiians and that there were more women that surfed which back then was known as 'Vakavodo Ua'. This sport was unfortunately lost when the British came and colonized Fiji, ruling out any such lifestyle that was not conducive to the values of European involvement at the time. Today, Fijian Surfing is making a strong revival with the formation of its own Fiji Surfing Association run by locals aspiring to bring back surfing as its national sport. Continuing where our ancestors left off.

As for the niche market of sport Tourism, surfing is a thriving business in Fiji. It has brought in many surfers from around the globe to experience the powerful Fijian juice that our waves are renowned for. Fiji has been host to a number of international competitions in previous years, namely the Quiksliver Fiji Pro - currently the Globe Fiji, Roxy Fiji Pro, Red Bull events, Kelly Slater Invitational, windsurf events etc.

Viti Levu Scene

Sigatoka Sand Dunes
The Sigatoka Sand Dunes on Viti Levu that are the largest in the South Pacific. They are special both as historical and archeological sites but according to Ian Muller, are also home to some great sand bottom waves. The shape of the waves are dependent on the silt brought down by rainfall from the Sigatoka River to form sand bars. Muller says sand bottom waves can be more fickle here because large swells and currents can shift the sand bars so that the wave changes regularly. Many surfers prefer reefs which never change their shape but Sigatoka Sand Dunes are one of the most consistent surf areas in Fiji. Best times to surf are at low tide so this gives a great alternative to surf the low tides on the coast when the reefs are dry. Unfortunately the regular trade winds often blow this area out but on the northerly winds can make it an extremely fun wave. To find the turnoff for the east bank of the river mouth drive 5 minutes east of Sigatoka town. Look for a small shop on the side of the road with a Benson and Hedges sign. Turn down this gravel road and follow it for a kilometer straight to the river mouth. The only downside—sharks seem to like river mouths. (Photo of Sigatoka River Mouth break courtesy of Global Surfers).

Natadola Beach
Natadola beach (which unfortunately is rapidly going being developed) is perhaps the most beautiful beach in Fiji and has always been a favorite hangout for locals. There are several waves that break here, outside for the experienced and inside the bay for the novice. Outside can be surfed at low or high tide and is a heavy left that can have a heavy backdoor section onto shallow inside reef with the offshore trade winds offering spectacular tube sections. Inside, is only a high tide left or right wave that is playful and fun when there is a large South to West swell running.

Tavarua and Namotu
More popularly known are the Islands of Tavarua and Namotu who have within that stretch of reef some of the best short and long board waves in the world. Both islands have accommodations with high standards and are considered some of the best surf resorts in the world. The waves of Tavarua include Beach Scene at Namotu Cloudbreak : a separate reef that has a world class long left hander that offers ideal waves from 4 - 12 feet that suits full powered and radical wave face surfing together with long tube sections. Restaurants : which breaks on the Island and is a super-fast, perfect barreling left hander that breaks onto very shallow live reef. Restaurants comes into play when Cloudbreak is big or has a more west angle in the swell. Both waves are offshore with the S/E trades. Tavarua Rights : a fun right that can be challenging on bigger days but is onshore with trades. Namotu Waves include : Namotu Left - which is a fun, slower carving wave type left hander that can get heavy on bigger days. Swimming Pools - is the absolute all-around fun, cruising right hander that is perfect for longboarding. Onshore with trades but offshore in North wind conditions. Wilkes is a right hander opposite Namotu Island that can be shifty but long and rip-able with good barrel sections.

Who to Contact on Viti Levu

My official booking agent, Scott Kukral, has several options if you plan to surf outside of the resorts: "Small John" runs Fiji Surf. His village owns the breaks around Tavarua and he can get surfers to the exclusive breaks when no other company can. He charges approx FJ$40 - 50 per trip depending on the amount of passengers. The only contact I have for him is + 679 9302262.

Viti Surf Legend - Ian Muller (fijisurf@connect.com.fj), the founder is a local pioneer in surf tourism. He runs a guide service and surf shop in Nadi at Ed's Bar, a popular nightspot in the Martintar area. Ian is dedicated to caring for his clients' needs which include excursions, board repair, board rentals, transportation and setting up accommodations. They also sell accessories such as leg ropes, wax and gorgeous local T-shirts. Aside from board repair and the like,their main assets are knowledge of the local scene. They know the local surf conditions and will take you to all the uncrowded breaks in western Viti Levu along the Coral Coast. (He won't take you to Tavarua or Namotu).

In Pac Harbour check out either Uprising or Tsulu for accommodations, and they can point you to the surf operators. Of course there are resorts that specialize in surfing, but they would all be substantially more expensive.

Many of Fiji's breaks are boat access only, and are for advanced or expert surfers only. The most reliable beginner breaks are along the Coral Coast area, and there are some surf camps outside of Nadi (south). Keep in mind that most places do not rent boards outside of Nadi, so if you don't bring your own I would check in with Ian as to a long term board rental.

Comments on Namotu from Nani & Jeremy Norton of Hawaii

"We surfed four breaks while on the island. Namotu lefts, a great wave that’s fun for hotdogging on a small day and hard-core surfing big days. A long-board friendly, lengthy left. Desperates’ rights and lefts, were uh, reflective of the break’s name. In a word, lame. Wilkes proved to be an unreal, critical right with the right swell! Swimming Pools rights was surfable on small days as a fun, hotdogging wave with several sections. On a big day there’s nothing like it. It’s something that has to be seen and experienced. To sum it up, we are going back..."

Staying at Namotu or Tavarua?

Tavarua and Namotu are clearly the best suited for hardcore surfers. The advantages staying here are that the surf is consistent and world class. The disadvantage is that you are isolated—far from anywhere else of interest. If you want to experience Fijian culture, as opposed to surf culture, you’ll have to get off these islands, which are minuscule. Another disadvantage, is that if you are an impoverished wave rider, these islands, while not overpriced, are not cheap surf camps.

Because of the consistency of the waves these resorts are booked out year around. The resorts have retained exclusivity of reefs surrounding their respective Islands and in order for a visiting surfer to be able to surf these areas, they request that visitors ask permission. There is a small window when outsiders can surf in relatively larger numbers and that is on Saturdays when guests check out and the new check in leaving 3 - 4 hours available. Despite this window, Saturdays are still tight so it is best to make a booking early on.

Mana Surf

Further West from Tavarua and Namotu in Mamanuca chain is a new surf destination called Mana Surf which services a variety of mid to upmarket properties such as Mana , Castaway, Matamanoa and others for backpackers. Run by Ian Muller, Surf Shuttle picks up surfers daily from the resorts and transports them up to four breaks that are on the outer barrier reefs from 5-15 minutes away. There are lefts/rights that are more like the Namotu style waves which can accommodate beginners to cruiser type surfers. They are more consistent than the Namotu area, being further West allowing the reefs to pick up a more consistent Southeast swell which Namotu does not receive to much of. They are close to Nadi airport which makes it a convenient stopoff. Not too many people have surfed this area and it has great potential, even when the swell becomes gigantic there are inside reefs that pick up and are offshore with trades. There are waves for beginner to advanced level in all types of conditions. A surf school is also based on the Island. Surfers can arrange packages at Mana Island Lodge and go surfing with everything included ( boat trip to surf, meals and accommodation) for F$110 per day. Contact Ian Muller fijisurf@connect.com.fj for information.

Waidroka is another option—it’s the name of a resort located West of the Pacific Harbour area (between Suva and Nadi). Reportedly it is the ONLY main island resort that surfs “Frigates”, “Pipe”, “Mata Point”, “Resorts Left”, “Serua Rights”, “Vunaniu Rights”, and “Black Rock”. They offer three styles of accommodation. At the top are the “deluxe” ocean-front bures which are are private cottages with private bathrooms. Amenities include two beds -one queen-size and one full-size, ceiling fans, tea and coffee making facilities, and large verandahs. The lodge rooms have a double bed and a single or three single beds, standup fan, and a table. The dorm holds 11 single beds and has two standup fans. The dorm and lodge rooms share hot water showers, toilets, and sinks. The deluxe bures are $99.00 FJD per night, lodge rooms, $54.00 FJD per night, and the dorm is $18.00 FJD per person, per night. They also offer snorkeling, game fishing, scuba diving, and PADI scuba diving certification courses. They have four boats. The trip to Frigates takes 20 minutes. They have recently finished construction on a new main building that includes house reception desk, restaurant, bar, gift shop, kitchen, and rest rooms. There is indoor seating space for 60 and space on the large outdoor verandah for another 20. All indoor and outdoor tables have an ocean vie and they also show nightly movies in the bar.

The only caveat about this property is a recent report we got from a reader who felt that perhaps because the owners of the property were not surfers they were not sensitive to the needs of surfers. According to this report, they had difficulty getting organizing a shuttle boat out to the surf spot early in the morning. Also management does not want boat handlers to stay out more than three hours for a surf session. This does not make for happy surfers. I will continue to keep readers posted on Waidroka and welcome feedback from other visitors. www.dive-surf-fiji.com.fj.

Naviti
Naviti (named after the nearby hotel) is located a 10 minute drive east of Hideaway. A close-in reef break, it’s a 5-10 minute paddle from shore. It’s a long right hand barrel, usually 2-4 feet, and is only surfable at high tide. It works best on a south to southwest swell.

Hideaways
Hideaways (also named for the nearby hotel) is offshore from a resort of the same name, 1 O hours drive east of Nadi. As mentioned above, it’s the best break on the Coral Coast. A gnarly right hander, it’s a hollow wave (similar to Backdoor on Oahu’s North Shore). Like Naviti it’s also a shallow reef break quite close to shore. With waves generally of 2-4 feet, it’s only surfable at high tide and works on a west to southwest swell. During the larger swells it can get to 5 or 6’ and very gnarly. At this size the small entrance threatens to close out and the huge volume of water rushing out the tiny passage creats whirl pools that are very intimidating. A half dozen or so tourists from Hideaway have perished there since the hotel opened so be careful.

Kadavu
On the southern tip of Kadavu is another surf resort named Nagigia that has a couple of great waves that can be very powerful. Kadavu has great world-class wave potential but unfortunately it can get the regular trade winds that blow on-shore in most surf areas. Therefore early morning and late afternoon surf sessions are the call. On Northerly winds, primarily in our Summer time Kadavu is sure to light up with offshore winds giving you a great experience.

Lau
Further to the South East are a group of Islands called the Lau group. They are known as the Forbidden Isles for which no one is to venture into these Islands without proper permissions. These Islands have a rich resource of wave potential but mainly for the experienced surfers who know their limitations. Most reefs can only be surfed at high tide and are exposed to many extreme weather patterns that can offer a very challenging experience.

(Shot above courtesy of Pierre Tostee AFP shows pro surfer Layne Beachley in Action in Fiji ).

Kiteboarding Tours

Ian Muller (pictured below driving the boat) Fiji’s surfing pioneer is now taking visitors on tours to small sand-bars and other areas on Viti Levu’s mainland. Contact him at fijisurf@connect.com.fj and check out his great website at www.fijisurfco.com.

If you are interested in finding out more about this organization contact the Fiji Surfing Association President, John Philp, jphilp@mac.com.

Windsurfing

Windsurfing is excellent in Fiji, particularly at the Sigatoka River mouth. It is easily the windiest place in the islands—the Southeast tradewinds come funneling down the coast and are accelerated by the thermal effect from the sand dunes which are heated like an inferno during the day. In the windy season (April – November) it blows a steady 20 knots average most days. However it can be windy outside of those months too. In January 1996 one avid windsurfer was able to sail his waveboard 21 days in a row there. High tide is probably best for sailing here because at low tide the sand bars are exposed making it more powerful and dangerous. However for experienced sailors this makes for smoother conditions as the reef to the east of the river entrance acts as a wave break at low tide.

In Conclusion

Whether you're looking for an introduction to the waves or a surfing experience not commonly found on the beaten path, you'll find the perfect location in Fiji and the perfect accommodations to match. More tourist centered destinations offer resorts like World Mark Denarau Island that provide on-site surfing instruction coupled with a standard of service and luxury only surpassed by the beauty of the location itself. Less traversed portions of Fiji offer nontraditional accommodations such as timeshare vacations in restored plantation houses as well as the opportunity to surf more challenging and remote swells.