Taveuni Main |
Accomodations & Dining
Natural History

Taveuni, known as Fiji’s Garden Island, is
an elongated emerald enclave (42 kilometers long and averaging 11
kilometers wide). The third largest island in the Fiji archipelago,
it is located just south of Vanua Levu (Fiji’s second largest
island) across from the Somosomo Strait. TaveuniVerdant, rugged and
volcanic in origin, it reaches a maximum height of 1241 meters at
Mt. Uluigala. The island’s fertile volcanic soil provides a perfect
medium for the abundant flora.
Copious rainfall has produced some spectacular waterfalls and the
moisture, combined with the fecund earth, has created a thick
carpet of vegetation. The dense, virgin rainforests are festooned
with orchids and ferns. High in the center of the island is Lake
Tagimaucia, famous for the indigenous red and white tagimaucia
flower.
Taveuni is noteworthy for the diversity of flora and fauna,
particularly the island’s bird life. Perhaps the main reason for
the variety of bird life is the absence of the mongoose, which was
introduced on many of the other islands (particularly where cane
was grown) to control the rat population. Taveuni’s relatively
inaccessible mountains and abundant food supply also have made it a
haven for many species once found throughout the group.
Bird watchers consider Taveuni among the best of the big islands.
Bird fauna has been impacted less here and the big pigeons and
parrots are easy to see. Among the birds on everyone’s wish the
Azure Crowned Flycatcher.
Perhaps the most famous of all Taveuni’s birds is the fabled Orange
Dove. The male of the species has green-speckled plumage that
changes in season to flaming orange. No photographs exist of this
pigeon and the paintings one sees in the bird texts leave you
unprepared for the brilliance of its plumage which is florescent
orange. Unlike the Orange Dove, which is hard to find, the Taveuni
Parrot is ubiquitous. It’s squawk and guttural sounds can be heard
throughout the island. They are a sight to behold with backs and
wings an iridescent emerald green rimmed with sky blue. Sometimes
they will gather in feeding flocks of several dozen or more to
reach mangos, guavas or other fruit trees. You don’t have to go far
to see this bird. I’ve seen them in the palm trees just a few
meters from the air strip at Matei.
Years before Europeans arrived, Taveuni was famous for its Kula—a
species of parrot also endemic to the area. In ancient times
trading parties of Tongans would journey to Fiji to barter is also
one of only two islands in the north of Fiji (the other is Cicia)
where the Australian magpie was introduced to control coconut
pests. Now a conspicuous part of the avian life, it is admired for
its curiously melodic song. In addition to several varieties of
dove, there is also a species of Goshawk, with a salmon pink
breast, and the Vanikoro Broadbill that has a gunmetal blue head,
dark blue wings and orange breast.

Birdwatching groups often stay at the
Garden Island Resort and with good reason. The hotel is comfortable
but not overpriced, the food is good, the water is safe and access
to Des Voeux Peak is close by. Why is the latter important? From
the road up to th e peak one passesTaveuni through the territory of
the Collard Lory, Vanikoro Broadbill, Black-naped Tern, Wattled
Honeyeater, and Fiji Goshawk (Falcon.)
Taveuni is also home to several species of reptiles such as the
Pacific Boa, which is still fairly common in the rainforest but is
not generally seen by the visitor. The largely unexplored forest
and mountains also harbor several known species of palms and other
plants not found elsewhere on earth.
Taveuni’s magnificent natural rainforest is not only attractive to
eco-tourists and naturalists. Sadly, only a few years ago, the
island’s trees were being cut down by an Asian logging company.
This activity, which was approved by the highest levels of
government, raised the ire of local environmentalists and dive
operators who feared that without proper ground cover the soil will
be washed into the lagoon thus ruining the delicate ecology of the
reef system. Fortunately the again.
Tavoro Falls (top photo) and Lavena area (right) (Ravilevu) Nature
Reserves Both these areas are nature reserves protected from
logging and development of any manner. Bouma is located in Tavoro
National Park about one hour’s drive north of the hotel. The taxi
will take you to a point just past the village of Bouma from which
the falls are only a ten minute walk. Along some of the steeper
grades there are step-like wooden levels with hand rails.
Occasionally you must ford a creek but there is a rope to help
navigate the rocks. There is an admission fee to the park and
you’ll need to hire a taxi. Your taxi can take up to five people so
the trip can be quite reasonable if you have group.
Lavena Village & Ravilevu Nature Reserve Excursion
This trip can be done in combination with Bouma Falls or
separately. Past the falls turnoff you travel another 20 minutes
along the road which brings you to one of the most picturesque
villages on the island. This is the best beach on the island and is
excellent for snorkeling. There is a five kilometer path that leads
through the village vegetable gardens and along the pristine
coastline. There are Fijian crafts for sale at the reception bure.
(There is also an admission fee to the park.) Scott Putnam a
frequent traveler to Taveuni, says that you can visit a famous
waterfall that fell into the ocean and used to shoot out far enough
to fill U.S. Navy tenders. Reports Putnam:
At the Lavena Lodge,
you're given the option of boat ride (you get to see more of the
Taveuni coast if you take this option and this option is the only
one that will take you to the famous WWII waterfall), kayak (you
only paddle to the attached waterfall) or hike (to the famous
waterfall you've been to). The boat option costs $300 Fijian
- a sum too large for all tourists prior to me (no kidding).
The folks at Lavena were ecstatic over my trip ($$$ signs
were shining in their eyes). They'd never had anyone from
Matangi (or Qamea for that matter) make the trip or choose the boat
option. After my trip, I talked other guests at Matangi into
taking the trip, but they didn't enjoy it as much as me. The
boat trip is not protected by reefs and if you're prone to sea
sickness - it's brutal. Combined with the rain and sea spray,
any tourist that does this trip needs to be adventurous."
History of Nature Reserves
The development of two successful national park-like entities,
which serve as nature reserves, in the Bouma Falls and Lavena Beach
areas have demonstrated that logging is not the only way to earn
hard currency for cash-poor villages. The inhabitants of Bouma
Village, where a waterfall has been a major tourist attraction for
many years, were also offered money to log their communal land.
Instead of selling their birthright, at the behest of the New
Zealand Government, they were offered a F$60,000 grant to improve
the land and create a park centered around the waterfall. They
weighed their options and came down on the side of conservation,
rather than the lure of easy money from logging. With the funds,
Bouma villagers have improved access to the Falls, constructed
trails, BBQ pits, benches and picnic spots. When you visit and pay
your F$5 admission, think of it as a contribution to the village. A
similar project has occurred at the picnic reserve.
Site of International Dateline

The 180th Meridian is about one kilometer
south of the Garden Island Resort. Take a right from the entrance
of the hotel and go up the road toward the hospital watching for a
monument on your right. This was where the international dateline
once passed. The dateline was later changed so as not to bisect
Taveuni. A five minute walk or less from the dateline is the
Meridian Theater which was recently the subject of a documentary
film (Reel Paradise). The theater was constructed in 1953. The
photo on the left was taken by Rob Kay in the early 1980s (I think)
and the photo on right, in 2002 or thereabouts by Amy C.
Elliott(courtesy of the folks from Reel Paradise).
Wairiki Mission

The Wairiki Mission, only 20 minutes walk
south of the hotel, is the most architecturally interesting edifice
on the island. Situated on the edge of a splendid coconut
plantation, it is also known at The Taveuni Catholic mission. It’s
a good example of British colonial Romanesque architecture. Located
on a hill, it overlooks the historic site where Taveuni warriors
turned back thousands of invading Tongans in a battle that was
fought in canoes just off the beach. It was this particular battle
that turned the tide in a war that had seen the Tongan stake over
much of Fiji. The locals celebrated by cooking their enemies and
eating them with breadfruit. Modern day visitors are invited to
attend Mass on Sundays from 7 am to 9 am. Definitely check it out,
the singing is wonderful. (Note that there are no pews or seats so
be prepared to sit on the floor.)
Bird Watching
As mentioned above, birding is world class on Taveuni. Access to
Des Voeux Peak, a prime habitat is minutes from the Waiyevo area.
You can either walk or take a 4-wheel drive vehicle nearly to the
top of the 1195 meter peak, which is the second highest on the
island. Likewise, Qeleni, on the northern end of the island also
affords excellent bird watching. To get there one must take a
4-wheel drive vehicle about five kilometers up a mountain road.
Both locales offer the chance to see Orange Breasted Doves,
Silktails, Ferntails and Parrots.
Vuna Village, Blow Hole, Vatuwiri Estate and Navakawau

Michele Tarte at old village siteVuna, a
village near the southernmost end of the island, played an
important role in the early European settlement of the Island. The
original plantations and homes of the early planters were purchased
from Tui Vuna (the local chief) and at least one of the homes,
Vatuwiri Farm, is within spitting distance of the village. (The
Vatuwiri Estate is still owned by the Tarte family, who are
descendants of the original settlers. On the property are the ruins
of an old Fijian village and one can hike to an extinct volcanic
crater). At the road’s terminus you reach Navakawau Village which
translates as `end of the road’. En route you will pass a blow hole
where the sea has eroded a passage at the edge of the shoreline. A
stop at Vatuwiri Farm costs extra but higly recommended.
Lake Tagimaucia
Lake Tagimaucia is the most famous geographical landmark in
Taveuni. Situated in an extinct volcanic crater, at a height of 832
meters, the lake is filled with floating masses of vegetation. It
is also home to the indigenous tangimaucia flower which produces
red blooms with white centers. The lake is reachable on foot but
the hike is an arduous all day affair. Better to take a 4-wheel
drive vehicle and view the lake from afar.
Kayaking
Scrambler Ocean kayaks are available from Bill Madden in Matei and
from the Garden Island Resort. They are easy to maneuver and one
need not be a tri-athlete to use them. However, it helps to be in
good physical condition. They can be rented on an hourly basis.
Vunivasa Tour
A new excursion in Taveuni that has had good reviews is the
Vunivasa Tour, which visits the archeological site of fortified
Fijian village. Here you learn how the ancient Fijians conducted
warefare, how they lived and survived in the good old days. It
culminates with a trip to a waterfall, wherein visitors are
transported by a 'flying seat' that you'll need to experience to
describe.
Golf & Tennis at Soqulu
A 15 minute drive south of the hotel is subdivision known as Soqulu
Plantation or simply `Soqulu’ (pronounced Song-goo-loo). In
addition to a number of homes, 30 condos and a club house, there is
a 9-hole golf course, two tennis courts (one asphalt and one grass)
and a lawn bowls green. All of the outdoor facilities are open to
the public but the club house and condos, hasve been shut down. The
links are situated on a gorgeous coastal strip of land.
Unfortunately the condition of the course is less than magnificent
but nonetheless it’s fun to play.
Waitavala Waterslide

This waterslide is a 20 minute walk north
of the Garden Island Resort. It’s a picturesque spot and quite
popular with the local kids. It’ssecluded, verdant and filled with
the laughter of children.
Warrior Buriel Cave
Created by a lava tube, this cave is about 350 meters long and
terminates at the ocean edge. In former times it was used by
Fijians as a secret burial cave for warriors. It is believed that
Taveuni’s greatest warriors were buried here in order to keep their
remains hidden from enemies. Most of the large bones were removed
in the 1950s after the cave was found. Guides will proudly show you
the biers where their ancestors were laid to rest. As one would
expect the cave is dark and damp. Be sure and bring your hiking
shoes. The entire trip, which includes a short visit to Soqulu
Plantation, can be arranged from the Garden Island Resort. Take
your flashlight.
Fishing

If your serious about fishing John Llanes,
formerly of the Big Island of Hawaii will take you out to catch
four varieties of marlin-blue, black, sailfish, and striped. He
also regularly snags wahoo (ono in Hawaii), dorado and other
denizens of the deep blue for US$300 (half day) or $500 (full day).