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On a press
trip two decades ago, several big-league travel writers with well
over a million and a half km under their belts were informally
polled as to their all-time favourite destinations. Without
consulting one another, each of the journalists unhesitatingly
answered 'Fiji'. The man, who took the poll, himself a
globetrotting airline executive, was astounded. 'I've never been
there. What makes it so great?' he asked. 'The people', was the
reply.
After logging many more miles under my belt, I still agree with the
writers polled. Chances are a visitor would not find a more
tolerant, hospitable and friendly people on the planet than in the
Fiji islands. It sounds like office-of-tourism hype but it's true.
Fijians, who ironically were the fiercest cannibals in the South
Pacific just over 100 years ago, are so gentle and kind that some
visitors may even doubt the islanders' sincerity. The realization
of how ingenuous the Fijians are is more than enough to make you
feel mean-spirited in comparison.
South Seas hands can talk about the aesthetic beauties of Bora Bora
or the ethnological diversity of Papua New Guinea, but the final
measure of the 'spirit of place', to quote Laurence Durrell, is the
people who inhabit it. In this respect the Fijians are in a class
of their own. When you meet a Fijian an instant human dialogue is
established. A Fijian will look straight into your eyes and an
almost telepathic communication begins.
From an early age Fijians are taught that family and friends are
the most important things on earth. Children are instructed to pay
attention to human beings and to understand their nature. It is not
surprising that the islanders have amazing powers of observation
and an intuitive sense when it comes to what people require and
desire. Consistent with their comprehension of the human
experience, Fijians will never forget a person they have met. Even
the substance of a casual conversation will be vividly recalled
over a long period of time.
South Pacific islands have their own slow tempo and Fiji is no
exception. Things don't move as quickly as in Sydney or San
Francisco and you would be wrong to expect that they should. The
sun is hot, the air is humid and no one - except a few misguided
tourists - rushes around for any reason. If the bus is late (or
doesn't show up at all), don't worry: there will be others. The
Fiji Bitter you ordered may be slow inbeing served, but it will
come and it will be cold. The hotel operator may not move like
lightning to place your call, but he or she will place it
eventually. In their own way and in their own time, people in Fiji
do get things done.
When the airplane's rubber hits the runway at Nadi, slow yourself
down and keep an open mind. If possible, soak up the sun and bask
in the goodwill of these marvelous people. My hunch is that you may
learn something from them and take it back with you.