Vanua Levu (pronounce Va-new-ah Lay-vu), with a population of approximately 130,000, is the second largest island of the Fiji archipelago. With an area of 5538 square kilometers, it is slightly larger than half the size of Viti Levu. The island measures 180 kilometers long and has an average width of 33 kilometers. The island is rugged, untrammeled and the coast is surrounded by an extensive system of coral reefs. Once a center for the copra trade, sugar cultivation is the most important industry and large cane fields can be seen on the dry western and northern coasts. There is a system of roads but they are not as extensive nor as well maintained as on the main island of Viti Levu. The exception would be the paved roads linking Savusavu and Labasa and up the coastal (Hibuiscus) Highway toward Lomalagi Resort.

Do you live in Vanua Levu or have an interest in the island? Join the Vanua Levu group!

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Definitely Do Not Miss
Rent a car and drive the Hibiscus Highway to Lomalagi to see the largest bay in the South Pacific. In Savusavu sip a beer at the Planters Club or visit the Hot Springs Hotel for a breathtakingly beautiful Savusavu Bay.

Around Vanua Levu

Although very near Viti Levu in distance (64 km northeast) it is less developed and less frequented by tourists. Vanua Levu thus offers the guest an ideal opportunity to observe local traditions and culture, relatively untarnished by tourism. The largest centers of population are Labasa and Savusavu, but they are small towns compared to the larger urban centers on Viti Levu. Labasa, largely an Indian community, is a thriving business center tied to the sugar industry. Savusavu, a smaller less developed town, is gaining popularity as a dive destination and yachting community. It has a truly magnificent bay and a friendly local yacht club. One can travel to Vanua Levu either by flying to Savusavu or Labasa, or via local ferry boat from Viti Levu.

Savusavu (population 5000) is a one-horse town with a kilometer long main drag facing the bay. The storefronts are rustic and in some cases could use a fresh coat of paint.. The town’s economy is however on the mend and town fathers are making a serious effort to change the aesthetics. This includes planting palm trees along the streets, paving the parking lot next to the outdoor market, paving and widening the 3 km of highway between town and the airport and improving another 20 km or so of the Hibiscus Highway. Savusavu is the sole Port of Entry on Vanua Levu—Fiji's second largest island.

Although the political turmoil in 2000 slowed development for a few years, this has given way to a real estate frenzy over the last few years. This has been fueled primarily by the baby boomers in the U.S. (along with help from Germans and Aussies) looking for vacation and/or retirement properties. Many local plantation owners, all too happy to cash in while the getting is good, are subdividing their land with a vengeance. With the price of copra (raw coconut meat) on the mend, the temptation to sell and subdivide land is no longer a great temptation. Prime ocean front land, within 10 km of Savusavu can go as high as US$300,000 per acre. Fiji has not seen real estate soar like this and no one is quite certain how long the activity will last.

The town has witnessed some economic activity. Restaurants, visitors’ accommodations and other businesses catering to tourism have popped up over the last few years. Savusavu citizens have benefited Vanualevufrom the jobs created and the town is evolving albeit slowly. The latest development is on the East end of town where a new marina complex (known locally as the “mall” is going in--eventually so we are told...

By Savusavu standards it’s a massive project that will entail a combination retail residential project with shops on first floor and apartments on second story. The latter are currently under construction and will be competed when finances are available. (The project is currently on hold.) The project is supposed to have 130 luxury waterfront villas in a 15 acre gated community, along 1.5 kilometers of waterfront. See www.marinavillagefiji.com for the details. This will totally change the complexion of this very “local” setting. I’m not quite sure how the juxtaposition of such great wealth with a very modest community will play out but time will tell.In the interim the Savusavu town council should get on the ball and pave the sidewalks which sorely need a facelift.

Tourism is also strong—particularly with upscale properties such as Cousteau and Namale. In addition local marinas are thriving withthe influx of more yacht activity. As a sign of the times, an excellent wine shop, run by Sally & Greg Webster at MH near the feul dock. They havean excellent selection of Australian, NZ and even French wines.

The most striking aspects about Savusavu are the incredible beauty of Savusavu Bay and the hot springs, which add a surreal, twilight zone quality. The hot springs (see photo at right) are scattered liberally around the city limits. Steam rises literally from the cracks in the sidewalks, in grassy lots, from the seashore and even from the municipal pier, which has to be paved periodically due to the corrosion from the thermal activity. Geologically, the whole town is kind of a devils kitchen, to which locals have adapted.