Vanua Levu Main | Activities & Attractions

Recommended Savusavu Accommodations

Savusavu Hot Springs Hotel
Savusavu Hot Springs Hotel in the midst of downtown Savusavu is a great bet if you want to stay in town. Run by a local couple, Lorna and Tim Eden, they have 48 rooms that have recently been upgraded. Perhaps the best thing about the place is the splendid view of Savusavu Bay—one of the most spectacular bodies of water in Fiji. It’s a great place meet local people and there’s often entertainment such as live bands on the weekends. Prices for standard rooms start at F$95 and tops out at F$155 for a more luxurious room. Rooms have queen beds with additional singles on request, tea/coffee making facilities & refrigerator. Connecting rooms are also available which is handy for families. Two self contained single or double bedroom apartments are also available at weekly or monthly rates. They also offer, bush treks and sport fishing. The property has backpacker dorms as well on the first floor that are better in quality than the competition. There's also a restaurant which has great views and affordable (F$15-$30) prices.

Daku Resort
I’m also fond of Daku Resort, which is under new ownership. (It was purchased by a former guest.) Situated in a former coconut plantation by the sea (within walking distance of town) they cater to the mid-range demographics and cater to families, couples, groups and long terms guests who need cooking facilities. It’s friendly and very quiet. Divers are also welcomed. (They work in conjunction with Jean Michel Cousteau’s operation located close by). They offer four different types of accommodation starting at F$95 for ocean view bures; two double bures that can handle up to 8 people (F$110); a villa that can handle a family of five or six (F$ $150); a beach house with a large verandah, open living room, three bedrooms, one large bath and kitchen and a ” Poolhouse” that can sleep six to eight with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, lounge, kitchen and a large covered deck.

The Copra Shed Marina
The Copra Shed Marina, although primarily a business center, also has a single room available (for F$160) which includes large, clean bath, TV and phone. It’s clean, modern and especially handy if you’ve got a nearby yacht. Ask for Geoff Taylor, manager at the Copra Shed for more information. Tel: (679) 885-0457 or reach them at coprashed@connect.com.fj

Recommended Accommodations Outside of Savusavu

Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort
Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, located a 15 minute ride from Savusavu, is managed and operated by the same group that owns the Post Ranch Inn in California’s Big Sur, Sea Ranch Lodge on Northern California’s coast, and the Hana Maui Hotel in Hawaii. The prestigious ‘Conde Nast Traveler’ awarded the resort their #1 ‘Green Award’ over all resorts worldwide for 2005. Cousteau oversees the dive operation and the environmental/educational programs. The Resort offers 26 spacious, Fijian style bures, situated on 17 oceanfront acres. All bures have king and day beds, a large, tiled bathroom with heated towel racks, and private decks. It’s located on Lesiaceva Point a ten minute taxi ride from town and with views of both the Koro Sea and Savusavu Bay.

Management refers to the resort as “full-service” and caters to a wide range of travelers – active couples, families, soft-adventurers, snorkelers and divers. Separate pools for adults and children. Activities for kids are provided (unusual for an upscale property in Fiji) with the ‘Bula Club’, Lei Lei Holiday Programs for children up to 7 years old and the Marau Holiday Program for kids 6 to 12. Both programs are complimentary for two children with a nominal charge for more than two. (The Lei Lei and Marau programs have their own ‘sun-safe’ swimming pools). Parents may join their children for meals in the Bula Camp area or eat together in the family dining room. A ‘dedicated’ nanny is assigned to the children throughout their stay. “The Bula Camp program was a ‘highlight’ of our stay here, the nanny was terrific with our children and we never had a worry, giving us much needed time for ourselves” recent guests from Australia. A marine biologist and a Fijian naturalist are also on staff to educate guests. Reserve a half day trip to your own private island, the staff will prepare a picnic lunch. Catch a complimentary Cousteau van into Savusavu for sightseeing and shopping.

Live Fijian music is performed in the evenings, outstanding 12 string guitar and ukelele, and there’s an open-air restaurant with local and International dishes prepared with many ingredients from the resort’s organic fruit and vegetable garden. Separate dining areas for families and couples assure a pleasant dining experience. Meals can be taken in your bure, under a private thatched roof covered table next to the sea or reserve an exclusive table at the end of the pier for truly romantic dining. Typical menus include homemade soups, fresh salads, a choice of a vegetarian, fish or meat dishes, and desserts made daily by the Resort’s pastry chef. Prices range from US$535 for garden view bures to US$1950.00 for a villa. Prices includes all meals, activities such as kayaking, sailing, snorkeling (except scuba diving), and transfers to and from the Savusavu Airport. Children 12 and under stay free. Loyal reader Scott Putnman of Redding, California sent some great observations to me after a recent trip to Cousteau:

1. The bures are very close together. You can hear loud conversations in adjacent bures. If there are babies crying or children in the midst of a meltdown, you will hear it all.
2. The service here is par-none. I caught the stomach flu here from some Australian kids; in the midst of my agony, the staff bent over backwards to make me feel comfortable (they also sterilized the entire property). Every few hours they would check up on me, bringing me cold ginger beer and cold compresses. The outstanding service begins the moment you arrive on the property. Upon check-in nannies are already assigned and waiting for the children, who gleefully and immediately quit their parents for play at Bula Club. The parents/adults are then escorted to their bures where a massage team is waiting. As the staff puts your luggage in the bure, the parents are treated to a foot and leg cleansing/rub/massage. A very nice touch.
3. The food at Cousteau is unbelievably good. There are resorts that offer good food and there are resorts that offer GREAT food - Cousteau is in the latter camp. Five course meals at both lunch and dinner, every course a culinary delight.
4. If the villa is not booked, the property will occasionally host a wine and cheese reception with hors d'oeuvres at the villa. It's a very classy, relaxed event that's a mix of a Napa wine tasting and a cocktail party.
5. The resident marine biologist presents audio-visual programs during cocktail hour, educating both children and adults about the critters found just off-shore. It's a very entertaining 1/2 hour. During the day, the marine biologist accompanies children and adults on snorkeling/glass bottom boat/mangrove excursions, educating both about what they are seeing (or touching). Occasionally, the marine biologist accompanies the divers on their adventures.
6. Cousteau no longer advertises their prices on-line. To discover the price, you have to query the property directly through a quasi-booking or investigate through a travel agent.

Dive Notes: The dive sites immediately surrounding the property are just O.K. due to limited visibility (fresh water drainage in Savusavu Bay). If a diver is pressed for time or doesn't want to venture to Namena, Barracuda Point and Alice in Wonderland are good close trips. If a trip to Namena is made available - take it. The site Grand Central Station is a spectacular wall dive where huge schools of jacks and barracuda merge, separate, then merge again. There's also a huge resident cod that's very receptive to photos with divers.

Moody’s Namenalala Island
Moody’s Namenalala Island is a 110-acre resort and nature reserve, 24 km south of Vanua Levu (off Wainunu Bay) and 32 km north-west of Koro. It houses twelve guests in six hand-crafted bures situated among trees and jungle vegetation. The island is crisscrossed with paths that lead to precipitous cliffs and lonely beaches. As one observer said, it's as close to a 'Survivor' scenario as you're likely to see.

The accommodations feature floor-to-ceiling sliding wooden doors on three sides so that you'll both get a get views and the cooling effect of the wonderful trade winds. The visitor is treated to a canopied king-sized bed with mosquito netting and the sounds of the sea lapping at the shore.

The owners, Tom and Joan Moody, make use of both fossil fuels and solar energy. Each unit has a propane tank to heat the shower water, a hot plate for coffee, and to power the gas lamps. Roof gutters capture rainwater (no well water on this island) which is stored in a cistern below the floors. Seawater is used for flushing the toilets. A solar panel powers a small reading light and fan over the bed.

Dinners are served at two large family-style tables that always include fresh homemade bread and an iceberg lettuce, tomato and onion salad. In addition to locally caught fish such as mahimahi you're likely to get chicken, pasta with tomato sauce, plantains, lamb chops and other American-style cuisine. Desserts such as chocolate or cheesecake are made daily. You're not going to starve here.

The most stunning aspect is the pristine state of the flora and fauna. Because in the past there was no constant supply of fresh water, the island never supported a permanent human population. Consequently the island remained undisturbed. The Moody's have in fact left the island a wildlife sanctuary. Turtles lay their eggs on the beaches and other fauna such as flying foxes, small colonies of red-footed boobies and other bird life can be seen. Guests often include birders as well as divers.

The island has superb diving and snorkeling, windsurfing, shelling and fishing. Transport is either via Turtle Airways seaplane from Nadi to Namena, or by regularly scheduled flights to Savusavu, then by speedboat (1-3/4 hours) to the island.

Hans Place
Just outside of Savusavu (between town and the Cousteau Resort) is a new accommodation called Hans Place run by a fellow who formerly operated the Bula Bookshop at the Copra Shed Marina. There are two self-contained units with kitchenette, living room, bedroom (with double bed) and bathroom (with shower and toilet). Located about 250 meters from the sea, these are small units, more suitable for couples or a single person rather than families. The lush garden appears to be well maintained. Rates start at F$80 daily for the “Yasiyasi” (F$400- weekly) and F$100 for the “Yaka” unit (F$ 500 weekly). Amenities include a covered deck and DVD/CD Player with TV.

Almost Paradise
Almost Paradise is located on Sau Bay on the eastern side of Vanua Levu—a 35 minute boat ride from Taveuni or a 20 minute boat ride from Buca Bay on Vanua Levu. It’s run by two former firefighters, Bruce & Geri-Sue Jacobson from San Clememte, CA . Geri-Sue is a divemaster who works for nearby Dolphin Bay Divers, so diving guests can easily hop on the boat with her on the mornings for some diving. The property is in a very sheltered spot with great snorkeling and a sandy beach close by. Boat rides to Rainbow Reef are priced to just cover gas, so it’s a set price per trip regardless of how many people are in the boat. They just opened up in2007, so everything is quite new (but not luxurious). In addition to the 3 meals/day (included in price), they serve appetizers at 5pm.. In general the food was quite good (international menu, heavier on American fare). Most of the wooden furniture was made by them. This is a great place for people who want a small, quiet place to stay at a reasonable price and don’t need a bunch of organized activities. Ssea kayaks are available. Rates are $195.00 FJD/day for 2 people. A third person added to a bure is an extra $75.00 FJD/day. Thanks to Monika Chase for her contribution to this piece.

Tropic Splendor Beachfront Cottage
Tropic Splendor Beachfront Cottage, one of the newest properties in Vanua Levu, is a fully self contained bungalow located a 20 minute drive outside of Savusavu on the north shore of Savusavu Bay. Run by Jeff & Susan Mather, this beachfront cottage is built and furnished to a high quality American standard and, is just steps from the beach .I was apprised of this property by Leslie O’Day a Reno, Nevada resident, who had a very positive experience there as a guest. She and her husband not only liked the amenities, but were fond of their hosts. It’s roomy with 600 sqare feet of interior space and a 600 square foot verandah. There are polished native hardwood floors and a natural wood interior decorated with Fijian handicrafts made by local craftsmen.Mrs. O ‘Day liked the attention to detail on the property such as the wrap around porch that “begs for a visit with its cushioned lounge chairs and hammock.” There’s also an outdoor garden shower with flowers and shells that she found romantic. The bedroom has a king-sized bed draped with netting, luxury linens, towels and tiled bathroom with hair dryer, heated towel rack and shower. Other amenities include telephone, radio & CD player, reading library, TV, DVD player and 400+ movie library. The daily rate (double accommodation) is F$360.00 or about US$209. The Mathers provide a 'Weary Travelers' gourmet dinner the first evening guests arrive. They also offer the visitor opportunities to get more intimately involved with local people. For example they will bring visitors to a neighboring village to try net fishing with the ladies, a billibilli (bamboo raft) ride down the river or a tour of a school to see how the local Rotary Club is participates in the educational system.

Recommended Accommodations Near Labasa

Palmlea Farms Lodge & Bures
Many times it’s the “newbie” hoteliers who bring the most creativity to Fiji’s tourism plant. From what I’ve heard, this is the case with Palmlea Farms Lodge & Bures, located 18 minutes from Labasa Airport on the northern coast of Vanua Levu.
What’s different about Palmlea? First off, it’s is a working farm or in the words of the owners, Joe and Juli Smelser, an “eco agri-tourism resort that offers environmental and organic themes.” It’s also very much off the beaten path. The Labasa area is one of the least developed tourist regions in Fiji and hence, one of the lesser visited.

Overlooking the Great Sea Reef (the third longest continuous barrier reef system in the world) it caters to a maximum of 12 guests. There are great seascapes but no swimming beach. It has one and two bedroom bures furnished with queen or king-size beds and private bath. In addition to the emphasis on sustainable living, they offer an unusual international cuisine that capitalizes on the fresh produce grown on the farm such as herbs and fresh vegetables and local produce such as pineapples, melons, cassava, taro and papaya. Meals are prepared in a variety of tastes: European, Fijian, Indian and vegetarian. The menu includes Mediterranean, Mexican and Asian dishes. All bread and desserts are baked fresh daily. Being close to the shore they always have fresh seafood.

Typical menu items sound pretty good to me and include torta al testa, flat crusty Italian tile bread with melted cheese; bruschetta Italiano crusty, Italian bread slices rubbed with garlic, tomatoes, black olives, cracked pepper and fresh chopped farm grown basil; reef lobster seafood roll-ups, lobster and coral trout wrapped in pastry; fresh herbs, vegetables in a spicy lolo cream sauce and osso bucco, succulent lamb pieces prepared in a age old Italian tomato base sauce. Other than eating, there’s diving, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, sightseeing and interestingly enough, surfing. Surfing, reports the owners is in its infancy and is great. A regular group of Americans comes every year outside of the Great Sea Reef. There's literally no one else to share the waves. They have their own 20 islander which they leave at the Palmlea Jetty. They have ordered a new 23' islander w/50hp and kicker to take surfers out. For more info contact Smelser Palmlea Farms Lodge & Bures Tele +679 828 2220 Fax +679 828 3220 www.palmleafarms.com email palmleafarms@yahoo.com.


Moody's has a five night minimum stay which includes accommodations, meals, activities, and round trip taxi transfers between the Savusavu Airport and Namena Island. Five night package cost is US$1375.00 + tax per person based on twin-share (2 people sharing a bure. Additional nights add US$215 + tax per person. Only additional-pay activity is scuba diving @ US$50 + tax per dive; must be a certified diver.

Dive Notes: Dive Activities and Facilities: Diving around Namenalala Island is spectacular. The Namena Barrier Reef which surrounds the island is over 30 km long with walls, bommies and a healthy, diversified ecosystem. In June 2004 the waters within the vast Namena Barrier Reef were declared a marine reserve with all commercial fishing banned. To compensate the native Fijian owners and to help preserve the ecosystem there is an annual fee of F$20 charged to each diver. There are sheer walls and drop-offs a mile deep at North Save-a-Tack Passage, and beautiful wall dives that wrap around the southern tip of the reef. On the opposite side of the reef at South Save-a-Tack Passage the diving consists of more sea mounts with small caverns and swim-throughs peppering the bommies. Note that some of the sites south of the island are not accessible during the winter months (July and August) due to their greater exposure. There are no moorings in the reserve, so Namena’s boats never drop anchor. Namena’s Barrier Reef is home to hundreds of varieties of reef life from nudibranchs, clownfish and beche-de-mer (sea cucumbers) to sharks, trevally, and manta rays. There are 2 species of turtle that nest on Namenalala, with Hawksbill being the most prevalent and green turtles being seen also. The turtle breeding, nesting and hatching season is typically between Nov and Mar. Expect water temperatures to be in the 75-78 degree F range during the winter (Jul-Aug) and 80-82 in the summer (Jan-Mar). A skin suit -2mm wetsuit is recommended for summer use, and 3-5mm suit for the winter months. There is a nominal charge for shore diving and snorkeling is also available from the resort. The shore diving is not comparable to the boat diving, but the snorkeling is good.

Namena does not offer any educational classes or a traditional dive shop. They do have 2 dive boats, each with a capacity of 12 divers; the Tofua is a 33’ cabin cruiser and the Salt Shaker is a 28’ launch with a 200 hp engine (making it almost twice as fast as the Tofua). Namena’s dive guides are all at least Rescue certified and maintain an in-water ratio of no more than 1 guide to 6 divers. A typical dive day is a morning dive (departing at around 9:00 and returning around 11:00) and an afternoon dive (usually departing between 1:30 and 2:00) with a surface interval and lunch back at the resort between dives. Additional diving may be done on request at the resort. Depending on sea conditions snorkelers may join the dive boats at no additional charge, and are provided their own snorkel guide. Aluminum 80 tanks, weights and belts are provided for divers, but if you need to rent gear be sure and let the resort know ahead of time so that they can make sure some is available for you.

Distance from most dive sites: The farthest sites are about 20-30 minutes away and the close-in sites around 5-10 minutes. The average travel time is about 15 minutes.

Namale Resort
Namale Resort, located 10 km from Savusavu on Vanua Levu (Fiji’s second largest island) has been a coconut plantation since the 1860s. Tradition has it that the land (which is now a 325 acre estate) was originally purchased from the Fijian Chief Tui Na Savusavu for 10 guns. The property accommodates a maximum of around 30 guests at a time in 14 large bures and two large villas—the Bula House and the Tatadra House. Many of the bures are built adjacent to huge volcanic outcroppings and sculpted to fit into the landscape. Honeymoon Bures offer incredible ocean views over the Koro Sea and include Jacuzzi bathtubs and an oceanview from your oversized bed or sofa. The owner of the resort is Tony Robbins, a well known American motivational speaker and writer famous for his “infomercials”.

There is a sandy beach (which I understand Mr. Robbins had constructed) with a nearby “swimming hole”, the size of an Olympic sized swimming pool, surround by reef pool. The beach is quite isolated and bounded by Mr. Robbins’ private home and a cove that leads to Namale’s private marina. There are ample deck chairs and hammocks strung between trees. Situated a few meters from the shore, the property is large enough to provide numerous hiking trails that visit a waterfall and traverse a rainforest. Other amenities and activities include private dining on one of eight decks overlooking the ocean, two jacuzzis and two pools, horseback riding, tennis, sailing, windsurfing, diving and visits to the local Fijian village. The cuisine is reportedly excellent with a great wine collection to augment the fresh seafood and other dishes. Read more in our blog

There’s a 10,000 square foot spa on a cliff with a fantastic view overlooking the Koro Sea (see photo on right courtesy of Marc Carignan). There are a series of pools of various temperatures and a cold plunge. The spa pools are all available to guests and if you want special treatments such as hdyrotherapy or massage, they are available from the specially trained staff. Let’s not forget the “Wellness Center” which consistes of a very well equipped gym, with free weights, exercise ball, rebounds, and multiple exercise machines. The other part is a state-of-the-art colon hydrotherapy center with five private “Libbe” beds, the latest in colonics.

There’s also a handy recreation room called “Kava Bowl” with comfortable sofas, fluffy pillows and a two lane bowling alley. If you want to catch up on your email, it has two computers with high speed Internet access and a dedicated Macintosh with 12,000 songs and a terrific sound system. There’s also a conference center on the grounds that can accommodate 60 people in a theater style setting. Executive Coach Marc Carignan, a guest from San Diego, likened Namale to the Four Seasons hotels as a benchmark. It was the “best of the best” in his experience. He liked his accommodations, a garden bure which had two private bedrooms with private hall, polished hardwood floors and airy ceilings. He said it had a “minimalist but tropical and stylish Fijian motif.” The only downside in his estimation was lack of aircon in his room.

If you do plan to stay at the property avoid staying there when the owner has one of his conferences. Visitors who are not part of the Robbins set may feel left out. That said, the resort has received a host of accolades over the years and in August 2004 was featured on the cover of Architectural Digest. Rates (which include all meals, accommodations, transfers and beverages) start at about US$850 double occupancy for the “Tropical Bure” and go up to $US2100 for the “Tatadra House ”.

Lomalagi
Lomalagi is a small (six-unit) property with perhaps the most spectacular natural setting of any resort in Fiji. Located on a bluff, the Lomalagi (pronounced lom-ah-lahngi) means “heaven” in Fijian. The translation is apt. The resort overlooks Natewa Bay, the largest in the South Pacific. Each of the six, forest green, bungalows has a commanding view of the bay which has a cloud-shrouded mountain range as a backdrop. Below is a shoreline great for beachcoming and snorkeling from shore. They will provide beach booties, which come in handy for strolls among the mangroves. There is however, no sand beach. What they do have is a large, salt water, swimming pool with a rock sculpture as a centerpiece. The large (900 square foot) bungalows each have a 300 square foot deck, polished pine wood floors, queen-sized bed and a modern, very large bathroom (including bath and huge open shower). Each of the units has a fully equipped kitchen witha full range of appliances including microwave, coffee maker, toaster-oven and a two-burner gas range.

For those who want to get away from it all, while basking in natural beauty, Lomalagi is the ticket. Each bungalow is tucked into a lush, very private hillside nook studded with coconut palms. A bell is placed a stone’s throw from each bungalow entrance so that visitors can announce their presence in an unobtrusive manner.

Food was good and your hostess, Ms. Collin McKenny (who hails from Seattle) provides a home-style experience-both in terms of cuisine and atmosphere - rather than that of a toney resort. Breakfast typically entails a choice of omelets, potato pancakes, home made sausage, cereal, French toast, ham & eggs and fresh fruit. Locally grown vegetables and fruit are readily available and frequently used. The eggs come from a farm only a few miles away and were incredible. Locally made curries are excellent. Activities include kayaking, mountain biking, snorkeling, (barebacked) horseback riding, spear and hand line fishing. Bay and diving are available from the resort. Deep sea fishing trips can be arranged out of Savusavu which is a half hour drive from the resort. Village visits and local tours can also be arranged. The late George Harrison rented the propety several years ago but it has yet to be discovered. Prices with a three night minimum stay start at US$401 per couple per night for a deluxe villa with includes three meals per day. (Contact Collin to inquire about “last minute deals” for US$335 per couple which includes accommodation and meals.) For reservations or information contact Lomalagi at lomalagi@connect.com.fj or go to www.lomalagi.com. Read more on our blog: Day 9 and Day 10

Where to Eat in Savusavu

Turf and Surf is at the Copra Shed Marina situated on the wharf side facing the bay. The Seaview, down the street from Hot Springs Hotel has excellent breakfasts and the best curries in town for $5-8. Also at the Copra Shed, the Captains Cafe has excellent breakfasts-two eggs, whole wheat bread and fruit plate for about $10. In the evening try their pizza. Eat out on the deck overlooking the yachts and the bay. Another old favorite is Charan’s on Main Street. They have comfy chairs, a big screen TV and great Indian curries, stir fry and pizza for a very reasonable $6 on up….and that’s for dinner! Pettine Simpson, who formerly ran the popular Decked Out Cafe offers a variety of local fare that has received good reviews.